idosubaru

your best bet would be to buy an entire wrecked vehicle, one with a manual trans would make it much easier. or if you want to piece it together, just start calling junk yards and comparing prices. yes that's the only car Subaru put the EG33 in.

are you sure i doesn't have a "parking light" switch somewhere? it's easy to hit that button on some subaru's and leave them on without knowing it.

XT6 automatic and manual starters are different. i do not think an automatic XT6 starter will work, but a manual trans XT6 starter should.

is it a holder, i've never seen an exhaust that has anything to do with hoses...i'm confused. what engine/vehicle? i've removed the intake heater hose on a MPFI XT6 before with no issues, lows in the single digits/teens.

the cams were not lined up properly. two things are very likely, either the person installing them does not know how to do older subaru's (they are the opposite of just about every other engine). you can just ask them. are both cams lined up the same or are they 180 degrees off? they should be 180 degrees off, but probably are not. when one is at 12 oclock, the other is at 6. not so with just about any oher engine, so people mess this up quite often. tell him to just rotate the passengers side (easiest one). or one cam is off by a tooth. bent valve is impossible. it should run exactly like it did before the belt broke with a new one installed.

you'll have he bellhousing bolt issue, different number of bolt holes but that's not a big deal, the ones that are there do line up. wiring will be completely incompatible so that will be a complete custom job in terms of wiring.

it is normal to have a lot of noise and white smoke after a head gasket job. typically lots of coolant can get into the exhaust and sit there until it burns off. this is bad news, they should have been replaced. but it depends how badly seized they were. i've seen them so bad that soaking in cleaners, heating and vices would not budge them - that is bad. if yours are that bad then they will never free up. but certainly doesn't hurt to try your options. you'll certainly want to do all the TOD stuff - ATF, MMO, seafoam, etc and see if it helps. it may take quite some time. how long was it overheating and how long was it driven with bad headgaskets? the longer it was run hot and driven like this i think the more likely the lifters were damaged and are now frozen.

type in NASIOC at yahoo and you'll find the National Subaru Impreza Owners Club or whatever it is...it's huge and they are all about upgrading, turbo's, engine swaps and stuff over there. it's a very different atmosphere over there and they have information that you'll find hard to find here - like upgrade/turbo related stuff. stuff like you're asking they usually have easy to find stickies and FAQ's.

hey, quit taking my posts out of context, we're in agreement! that picture is of a 95-96...or later just like i mentioned. they are much nicer than the 94 and earlier models.

yep, sure is.

the H6 is an EZ30. this forum does not like three letter search, so stuff like "3.0" would not work probably. you might get results with 3.0* or *3.0. head gasket issue is EJ25 only and only 1996-2002 EJ25's. it's the only Subaru engine with head gasket related issues. timing chains are designed to last the life of the vehicle. even trucks doing significant towing, 200,000 miles is easy for a timing chain, i imagine in a car it's even easier though i'm sure it's lighter duty. when you go look, check out the owners manual for timing chain maintenance. actually that might be a good search term since that's the only subaru engine with a timing chain. search for "timing chain" in the New Generation forum.

not at all, they start right up, first crank like any other normal car. those batteries probably have issues. i wouldn't get an 02 or earlier EJ25, i would stick with 03 or later for EJ25 due to head gasket issues, mileage doesn't matter. or...check to see if it's been replaced yet, that's your best bet. no need to discuss this here, it's a rather lengthy topic. just click on the "Search" arrow on the gray line above and type in "head gasket" or "headgasket", search "titles only" in the "New Generation" forum and spend some time reading if this topic or this 02 engine really interests you. it may be eligible for Subaru's extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty though - double check that of course with a search and calling your local dealer, i think only some 00-02 models are eligible for this. a nice, low mileage 95-96 legacy would be awesome (i personally don't like the looks of the older models). can't beat those for the reliability and the price you can get them at these days. keep in mind some legacys up to 99 or so still had the EJ22, the lower end models (not the GT's, SUS, and such). the interference isn't a big deal, just change the pulleys, water pump and timing belt which if you like reliability and given the age of the vehicles should be done anyway in my opinion.

if you want a used belt - post a thread in the parts wanted section. if you have no luck, PM or email me next week and i should have access to mine...if i can find them.

you might have gotten lucky but from the couple i have seen you can expect a bent valve. the damage was rather light really, replace one or two bent valves and everything else is fine otherwise. replace the belt and you'll know rather quick. someone on here will probably send you a used belt for free to try if you're not wanting to buy a new for a suspect vehicle. i may have a DOHC used timing belt lying around i could send you later next week. i've done a few Legacy GT's this year.

after sitting for 5 years...could be lots of things. carb is the first thing that pops in my head, but sounds like you're confident that is not the problem? have you tried spraying starter fluid in there while cranking? fuel filter and ignition (plugs, wires, cap rotor) come to mind. vacuum hoses are a good thing to check too. if you have a compression tester might want to see what you get.

Does it die when you're coasting or sitting still? does it do it every time or rarely? have they been able to replicate this? has the check engine light ever come on? i would assume the sticking idle and this stalling issue are related somehow. I would ask them what controls the idle and to thoroughly inspect that system. if they can replicate the problem they need to hook up vaccuum gauges and their computer for real time information. protection time - start documenting as much as you can, get paper work, record everything, make them write stuff down and give you feedback on paper, written. you want as much as you can if they keep shrugging their shoulders.

NASIOC has tons of information about swapping heads and differences, compression, etc if that's what you're looking for.

i would start by replacing the thermostat and radiator cap. unless it's relatively new the radiator will be suspect as well. after all these years there's no telling what the insides look like but it could easily have significant blockages. it could also be a slipping belt, as it drives the water pump. if you hear any squealing or have alternator/electrical issues then this may point to the belt. also the crank pulley/harmonic balancer could be slipping as well. they have a thin rubber ring in them and it can separate from the metal so the outer most part of the pulley (that the belt rides on), does not turn properly with the actual crank - therefore your water pump and other accessories won't turn as fast as they should. you should also get electrical/alternator issues with this.

exhaust work should get you there easily with maybe some small boost increases. NASIOC should have all sorts of stickies and FAQ's for this.

oh yeah, that reminds me, i forgot that i had a head off a car that was driven for a while with a bad head gasket. the head was damaged where the leak occurred. there was a divot at that point on the head where part of the metal had melted or worn away. it was repairable if you like welding and machining heads.

bad idea to drive it like this if you want to keep this engine block. heat is very bad for all parts of the engine...oil degrades, bearings and well everything is compromised. it's kind of like asking "can i live by eating chocolate only"...probably for awhile but problems will begin to mount and increase exponentially. you definitely see more internal bearing failures/issues with cars that have been previously overheated than not.

take in an old exhaust stud to an auto parts store (mom and shop places are better here, the national chains will have them but in packs of two and not as good of a selection). they will have the 10x1.25 size exhaust stud you need, you just need to take on in and size it up, i've done it a bunch of time but can tell by looking really. their computers and parts books won't show any matches, but they will have it, just go look. on some you'll just notice that the stud needs to be screwed into the engine block one way and not the other, it will be obvious once you see it. some studs have a small 1/4" section that is threadless - you'll want this side closest to the engine to leave enough room for the nut to grab all the threads...like i said, it's obvious when you get in there. they are also readily available at junkyards, they have hundreds of them, find some non-rusty ones and go to town. probably put a thread in the parts wanted section here and someone will hook you up as well. there's tons of information on these exact bolts on here, i'd spend some time searching and read to your hearts content.

sounds good. you could duplicate the marks on your other belt for future use. glad it's up and running, good job!

i think that's only for the "bearing cap", not the diff plugs.

i knew that's what you meant, i was wondering if you are sure this is absolutely true since the older ones are not like this. on those, the ECU can still sense and show proper codes on older subaru's if the ECU is getting bad input from something...even if the engine has never actually ran (motor swap, etc). what is bizarre is that if what you are saying is true it would mean that the ECU can never show a code for a non-start condition...since the engine never actually "ran" on that incident, the computer doesn't know if the engine was swapped, if the car sat overnight or for 6 months (unless it discharges of course). maybe the electrical system being discharged has something to do with it? anyway, if this is true then it can't ever show a code for a non-start condition, that sounds weird.