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idosubaru

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Everything posted by idosubaru

  1. the original intake manifold stayed with the vehicle? your distributor is the issue then. this being the case we need to know what vehicle this is going in (specifically the ECU and wiring harness which should be orginal to the vehicle right?). and we need to know what distributor you are using. the EA82T distributor's may not be as interchangeable as you would think.
  2. i think that's where you'll find the most information on this. it all comes down to cash, with enough resources yes it can be done. the stock transmission and driveline is going to start falling apart though with this kind of use. the transmission will not likely take it for very long and that strain will be passed throughout the rest of the components as well. spend some time on other sites and you'll see plenty of WRX transmission shreading threads. and you still have semantics to consider, do you want the car driveable after that track run? how many miles? are you going to rebuild after every track run? upgrading the ECU? exhaust, pump fuel, EGT's, intercoolers, turbo, intake, fuel controllers???...and on, and on, and on...there's a lot to consider and i think you'll learn more at NASIOC about all of this. that you're asking such open ended questions seems to almost answer the question itself...no, it's not going to happen. if you're really going to do this and understand engines then you should have a good idea of what this kind of project is going to take if you're that determined to hit those kinds of numbers. if you don't know much of this stuff then read all you can at NASIOC and check out Corky Bell's book.
  3. huck and moody say the late 90's OBS has an LSD center diff of some sort. just regurgitating though, i have no idea.
  4. it is bizarre, i hvae seen improper timing belt instructions i think for the XT6 timing belt...i guess the Chiltons (only one available)? the FSM even has a few errors, but not in regards to timing belts of course!
  5. your distributor and/or timing belts are not lined up properly. lining up the distributor is a real pain if you're not really familiar with EA82's, the best advice i can suggest is to have someone post a picture of the relation of the distributor to something else....like when the cam is lined up at 12 oclock with the timing mark. the zero mark on your timing mark is ONLY used for ignition timing with a timing light. it is not used or needed for lining up the timing belts, so for the mechanical timing (timing belts), then no that is not the mark you want.
  6. everything you're using now is original to the vehicle, no parts have been swapped? are you positive the distributor is lined up properly? it needs to be exactly right, if it's one slot off it'll do exactly what you're saying. are you sure the timing belt marks are lined up dead on? they can not be one tooth off. you may have a vaccuum leak somewhere? have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake manifold and hoses? have you adjusted the timing properly...keeping in mind the car needs to be at operating temperature with connectors plugged in at the ECU in the trunk. either the green or black plugs need to be plugged in when adjusting the timing, i forget which ones, i think it's the green ones but someone here can clarify.
  7. you have to define "withstand". there's a big difference between a daily driver and racing...and everything in between. as well as what style of driving to be done, whether you want 200,000 or 50,000 miles out of it. and how much you're putting into it?? the more you bump it, the more risk you incur...so where do YOU draw the line, where other people tell you? there's no magic line where at 498 they all last forever then at 498.1 they all of a sudden blow up the first time you start them. the questions you're asking are very subjective and vague. NASIOC is probably a good source...there's guys building 400+ horsepower engines over there. you're asking a ton of questions that are very similar in scope, i think searching google, here, and other sites (like NASIOC) and reading as much as you can about subaru options should give you a well rounded base to start from. i guess i sound like a party-pooper but i feel like you're shooting in the dark in a way.
  8. no problem. this may have weakend the axle in the first place.
  9. i would contact MWE and order an axle from them or get a Subaru axle (used from a yard or from Subaru). aftermarket axles are junk. you could probably even post in the Parts wanted forum here and get a hit. i can't stress how rare it is for a rear axle to fail, they are a dime a dozen to find used because they just don't break. you could have a differential or transmission (center diff) issue as well. a rear diff problem should have been accompanied by noises prior to this happening and the center diff should have been accompanied by torque bind prior to this happening as well. do a search on here for "torque bind" to see if those symptoms are charateristic of anything you've had. hopefully you rotate your tires and keep a matching set on there. you need to for these 4WD transmissions.
  10. i have a 1996 Legacy GT without a canister and a 1997 Impreza OBS automatic without one as well (although two other identical impreza's did have one). i'm about to install one of them in my Legacy LSi that did have a canister. this one actually doesn't have EGR either so i will definitely have something to deal with.
  11. well technically it varies by state and some states you can only swap the exact engine that was originally in there. but they do not check or verify that, ever. you get tested (emissions or whatever your state does) and you either pass or fail and come back to try again another day. that's why people do motor swaps all the time, not just in Subaru's, because it's not a law that is applied.
  12. does the check engine light ever come on? does it always do it - cold and warm? did you use Subaru ignition wires? maybe you (or car!) has bad gas? i highly doubt it's a fuel injector.
  13. your best bet would be to buy an entire wrecked vehicle, one with a manual trans would make it much easier. or if you want to piece it together, just start calling junk yards and comparing prices. yes that's the only car Subaru put the EG33 in.
  14. are you sure i doesn't have a "parking light" switch somewhere? it's easy to hit that button on some subaru's and leave them on without knowing it.
  15. XT6 automatic and manual starters are different. i do not think an automatic XT6 starter will work, but a manual trans XT6 starter should.
  16. is it a holder, i've never seen an exhaust that has anything to do with hoses...i'm confused. what engine/vehicle? i've removed the intake heater hose on a MPFI XT6 before with no issues, lows in the single digits/teens.
  17. the cams were not lined up properly. two things are very likely, either the person installing them does not know how to do older subaru's (they are the opposite of just about every other engine). you can just ask them. are both cams lined up the same or are they 180 degrees off? they should be 180 degrees off, but probably are not. when one is at 12 oclock, the other is at 6. not so with just about any oher engine, so people mess this up quite often. tell him to just rotate the passengers side (easiest one). or one cam is off by a tooth. bent valve is impossible. it should run exactly like it did before the belt broke with a new one installed.
  18. you'll have he bellhousing bolt issue, different number of bolt holes but that's not a big deal, the ones that are there do line up. wiring will be completely incompatible so that will be a complete custom job in terms of wiring.
  19. it is normal to have a lot of noise and white smoke after a head gasket job. typically lots of coolant can get into the exhaust and sit there until it burns off. this is bad news, they should have been replaced. but it depends how badly seized they were. i've seen them so bad that soaking in cleaners, heating and vices would not budge them - that is bad. if yours are that bad then they will never free up. but certainly doesn't hurt to try your options. you'll certainly want to do all the TOD stuff - ATF, MMO, seafoam, etc and see if it helps. it may take quite some time. how long was it overheating and how long was it driven with bad headgaskets? the longer it was run hot and driven like this i think the more likely the lifters were damaged and are now frozen.
  20. type in NASIOC at yahoo and you'll find the National Subaru Impreza Owners Club or whatever it is...it's huge and they are all about upgrading, turbo's, engine swaps and stuff over there. it's a very different atmosphere over there and they have information that you'll find hard to find here - like upgrade/turbo related stuff. stuff like you're asking they usually have easy to find stickies and FAQ's.
  21. hey, quit taking my posts out of context, we're in agreement! that picture is of a 95-96...or later just like i mentioned. they are much nicer than the 94 and earlier models.
  22. the H6 is an EZ30. this forum does not like three letter search, so stuff like "3.0" would not work probably. you might get results with 3.0* or *3.0. head gasket issue is EJ25 only and only 1996-2002 EJ25's. it's the only Subaru engine with head gasket related issues. timing chains are designed to last the life of the vehicle. even trucks doing significant towing, 200,000 miles is easy for a timing chain, i imagine in a car it's even easier though i'm sure it's lighter duty. when you go look, check out the owners manual for timing chain maintenance. actually that might be a good search term since that's the only subaru engine with a timing chain. search for "timing chain" in the New Generation forum.
  23. not at all, they start right up, first crank like any other normal car. those batteries probably have issues. i wouldn't get an 02 or earlier EJ25, i would stick with 03 or later for EJ25 due to head gasket issues, mileage doesn't matter. or...check to see if it's been replaced yet, that's your best bet. no need to discuss this here, it's a rather lengthy topic. just click on the "Search" arrow on the gray line above and type in "head gasket" or "headgasket", search "titles only" in the "New Generation" forum and spend some time reading if this topic or this 02 engine really interests you. it may be eligible for Subaru's extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty though - double check that of course with a search and calling your local dealer, i think only some 00-02 models are eligible for this. a nice, low mileage 95-96 legacy would be awesome (i personally don't like the looks of the older models). can't beat those for the reliability and the price you can get them at these days. keep in mind some legacys up to 99 or so still had the EJ22, the lower end models (not the GT's, SUS, and such). the interference isn't a big deal, just change the pulleys, water pump and timing belt which if you like reliability and given the age of the vehicles should be done anyway in my opinion.
  24. if you want a used belt - post a thread in the parts wanted section. if you have no luck, PM or email me next week and i should have access to mine...if i can find them.

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