idosubaru

probably just bad connections throughout. battery is probably aged? is it a high quality battery? are the terminals and cable ends clean and tight? are the battery cables and end links original? the starter brushes are probably old and the guts are probably dusty inside. probably normal if it's starting fine i wouldn't worry about it.

hhhmmmm...i'm thinking i would just leave it hooked up..."just in case"! sublute, congratulations on staying task oriented and level headed through this, i'm not sure what i would be, but it wouldn't be good!

it's possible they wrote down the wrong amount. if they added one quart extra i'm fairly certain it would be much further than 1/2" up the dipstick.

i just edited my last post...might want to look it over again. quit checking back so quickly!

hello? we have the FSM's available over at the XT site though. you could down load them and look, but i'm sure you're not interested in all that. i would definitely search at the xt site, maybe someone else has experienced this before. it'll be identical to an 87+ XT and should be the same style set up as an EA82. check into this, see if it helps: the clips for the control arms for the heater doors. They are a white plastic that look like a CLAM shell kinda with a plug on back that snaps into the door arms. Then you adjust the control that runs off the elec motor by snapping the arm in the right place with the door. So you would push the defrost switch and the motor would move the control then you open the door and snap the arm into the CLAM style holder. FYI folks The newer styleclip which they call a connector is Subaru part number 772034290

i have seen them advertised with an EJ18 before, so i am guessing you saw one like that as well? i always wondered if that was a typo, swap or something else. as a matter of fact i saw one relatively recently, probably the same one you're asking about since you're not that far away.

i have not seen documentation on the wiring for your vehicle to tell you what wire it would be. i would imagine the Subaru dealer should give you a quick glance of the FSM. i've even had them photocopy small portions before. if that was all it took we would have this sorted by now. there are other engineers here, (Aerospace here), and we all have the ability, contacts and some even have the equipment available. and it has been done, but not shared. it's the desire and willingness to share that is lacking! the simple switch method is a fantastic solution and there is really no need to develop a controller (which has already been done) for it. what is needed is substantial indicators that this circuit is in use to avoid leaving it on. that is far more valuable than a high tech controller in my...one who has done this for years...opinion.

OH MY word is this a blast, way too funny!!!!!! don't you guys have some work to do...maybe i can assist 00111 01010 00011 01110 E343 A340B 3323B and hey BRAD (???), maybe ilan can look that up in the flight software users manual! get it straight yo - it's "Hee Haw and the dutchman", not just "Hee Haw" ilan is a critical part you know, don't leave him out.

the coolest thing you can do is run a Duty C switch allowing you to "lock" your rear transfer clutches and essentially run true 4WD, nearly identical to locking the center differential. a few of us have done it, have significant threads posted on how to do and it makes an automatic an excellent vehicle for snow or off road purposes.

no the oil pumps do not seize, that is highly uncommon for a good running engine, it just doesn't happen. physically speaking it's impossible for a head gasket to fail, timing belt to break and oil pump to seize all at the same time. there are a few possibilities: the headgasket was bad and the timing belt broke and they decided to leave the car sit and the oil pump wasn't seized, but just stuck from not running. maybe they were driving with bad headgaskets too long and the oil pump did seize due to lack of oil and the belt broke once the pump seized. frankly that's the only way to actually break a timing belt and have a seized pulley simultaneously. if this is the case then the block was starved of oil and your main bearings probably won't last long before you start hearing rod knock. they could have easily been driving it while overheating (bad radiator, leak, etc..) and the overheating weakened the headgaskets, other seals and caused all of the problems too. in which case that's bad to drive a car that much while overheating. it's hard on every component. but if you got it running, who cares!

i don't think there's a definitive answer because not every plug removal is the same. some catch, some do not. if every single one stripped when removed in a certain fashion, then yes a "definitive" way may arise, but that is not the case. i do them cold all the time without issue, try that way first. if you notice a plug getting stiffer and catching, then you may want to tighten it back down and warm the engine up to see if that helps. if that happens, chasing the threads with a hole chaser is a good idea, to keep your piece of mind. definitely use antiseize on the ones you install. NGK plugs, Subaru OEM wires only if this is for your 99 EJ25. that's a fun one to do spark plugs on (J/K).

yep, i'd take a FWD with quality snow tires any day over any 4WD vehicle with all seasons.

nah, there's no reason too except maybe it's cool that you can, and cool to control the transmission. the follow up question is why bother? why would you want FWD? it does not help gas mileage (do a search and read those that have asked and those, like me, that have done it multiple times on manual and auto trans) and find out why it doesn't work. they can be run in RWD, i know someone doing it, but that's a very, very bad idea and best done by a transmission that it already kaput (like the one i know of).

good score. an actual Subaru used axle is far more reliable than a new store bought axle. the only issue is the rubber boots, used ones have the obvious possibility of being dry rotted or cracked.

sweet! if you did a full "flush" and got it all out then consider it done. if on the other hand you just did a drail and refill you would be best to consider doing a few more as that only gets part of the fluid out. there is still fluid all through the torque converter, ATF lines, ATF cooler, valve bodies, rear extension housing..etc, that does not come out with a normal drain. it's not like engine oil that all drains down to the pan.

bad valve stem seal could cause this too. i'm a carb idiot so hopefully those other suggestions get you fixed up. if everything keeps falling short a compression/leak down test might show something.

might want to edit your post. up until 1996 the EJ22 is non-interference. 1997+ they are interference engines. what do you mean by "best" year? if the interference thing is what you're after then go with the information i just posted.

this is your best bet. are you aware of the EJ25 head gasket issues, it seems like you are not? buying a used motor and you're buying used and probably original head gaskets. at this point your money is best spent maintaining the otherwise known good engine that you have now. i would much rather have your 160,000 mile engine with new updated head gaskets than a "lower mileage" engine with no known history and the original problematic head gaskets. it's a no-brainer really. make sure you have everything done...not just the timing belts but have the water pump, pulleys and tensioners replaced (the ebay kits will save you hundreds here, the Subaru prices on pulleys are ridiculous). do this and you'll have an engine easily capable of another 100,000 miles. even a used motor that's nearing 10 years old should have all or most of these items checked and replaced, so you're not saving much by getting used here. if you'd like a lower mileage or new engine go with CCR, they are spendy but you get what you pay for. the best rebuilt Subaru engine you can buy with stellar customer service and an outstanding warranty. 3 years 36,000 miles i believe. up above is a dark gray line with a "Search" button in it. click on the arrow, click on advanced search options. type in "head gasket" or "headgasket" and click on New Generation for your search. notice all the EJ25 headgasket threads, they are common.

it'll fit. you'll want to replace everything you can while it's out - valve cover gaskets, timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. huck has one in his XT6. i'm sure with some searcing you'll find them in EJ's as well, have you tried a google or yahoo search?

i wouldn't do it. keep your tire pressure up all winter and call it a day.

never heard of that, where did you hear/see this? and what vehicles is that for, OEM pads too?

are you sure you need a new engine? timing belts and valve seals aren't that big of a deal. those could be fixed for the cost of the engine purchase and install easily. AND the bigger issue is that while doing the valve job you could install the new updated headgasket - i would never put all the money out for a used EJ25, you're just inheriting a high risk potential head gasket failure, not worth that kind of money to me. do yours with new Subaru head gaskets and call it a day?? yeah you just want an EJ25, doesn't even have to be a 1998. if it's not a direct swap (which most are), all you have to do is bolt your intake manifold onto the new engine. the intake manifold has the wiring connectors, sensors and all the electrical gizmo's on it, so that makes swapping easy. 1996-2003 EJ25 should be fine...probably even later. for the JDM you may have to swap your intake manifold, the on i did (though not an EJ25 but it was a subaru) had completely different and unrelated wiring and connectors. swapped the intake manifold and all was good. or techincally you could go through the effort of swapping your engine wiring harness onto the JDM intake manifold, but swapping manifolds is easier. either way, there's nothing crazy about the JDM motors in terms of making them work. doesn't matter automatic to manual. the only time that matters is if you're installing an EJ22.

sweet, what do you cut a tap with?

there is a difference between pull it yourself yards and off the shelf. with pull it yourself you have to do all the work and you can't "call around" and find out what they have. you have to hope they have what you need. stuff that is common, they'll have it. stuff that is not, hit or miss. so you spend your time searching....going back, and then back or asking friends, and then time removing the parts which are off of cars sitting in the yard likely to have rusted bolts and might have broken parts from the last person that played with it. now...this doesn't happen much, and it's easy to get a great deal from the pull it yourself yards, i've done that before too. but it is a different market. and sholudn't surprise anyone that NY prices are higher. i picked up a 101,000 mile trans with a warranty a couple weeks ago for $150 and may go get another. quick phone call and a done deal. all that time searching and pulling parts with no warranty isn't worth the opportunity cost for me.

what nipper said - accessory belts are not typically 100,000+ mile items and the load put on them varies tremendously on alternator and air conditioner condition and useage.