idosubaru

nah, there's no reason too except maybe it's cool that you can, and cool to control the transmission. the follow up question is why bother? why would you want FWD? it does not help gas mileage (do a search and read those that have asked and those, like me, that have done it multiple times on manual and auto trans) and find out why it doesn't work. they can be run in RWD, i know someone doing it, but that's a very, very bad idea and best done by a transmission that it already kaput (like the one i know of).

good score. an actual Subaru used axle is far more reliable than a new store bought axle. the only issue is the rubber boots, used ones have the obvious possibility of being dry rotted or cracked.

sweet! if you did a full "flush" and got it all out then consider it done. if on the other hand you just did a drail and refill you would be best to consider doing a few more as that only gets part of the fluid out. there is still fluid all through the torque converter, ATF lines, ATF cooler, valve bodies, rear extension housing..etc, that does not come out with a normal drain. it's not like engine oil that all drains down to the pan.

bad valve stem seal could cause this too. i'm a carb idiot so hopefully those other suggestions get you fixed up. if everything keeps falling short a compression/leak down test might show something.

might want to edit your post. up until 1996 the EJ22 is non-interference. 1997+ they are interference engines. what do you mean by "best" year? if the interference thing is what you're after then go with the information i just posted.

this is your best bet. are you aware of the EJ25 head gasket issues, it seems like you are not? buying a used motor and you're buying used and probably original head gaskets. at this point your money is best spent maintaining the otherwise known good engine that you have now. i would much rather have your 160,000 mile engine with new updated head gaskets than a "lower mileage" engine with no known history and the original problematic head gaskets. it's a no-brainer really. make sure you have everything done...not just the timing belts but have the water pump, pulleys and tensioners replaced (the ebay kits will save you hundreds here, the Subaru prices on pulleys are ridiculous). do this and you'll have an engine easily capable of another 100,000 miles. even a used motor that's nearing 10 years old should have all or most of these items checked and replaced, so you're not saving much by getting used here. if you'd like a lower mileage or new engine go with CCR, they are spendy but you get what you pay for. the best rebuilt Subaru engine you can buy with stellar customer service and an outstanding warranty. 3 years 36,000 miles i believe. up above is a dark gray line with a "Search" button in it. click on the arrow, click on advanced search options. type in "head gasket" or "headgasket" and click on New Generation for your search. notice all the EJ25 headgasket threads, they are common.

it'll fit. you'll want to replace everything you can while it's out - valve cover gaskets, timing belt, water pump, pulleys, etc. huck has one in his XT6. i'm sure with some searcing you'll find them in EJ's as well, have you tried a google or yahoo search?

i wouldn't do it. keep your tire pressure up all winter and call it a day.

never heard of that, where did you hear/see this? and what vehicles is that for, OEM pads too?

are you sure you need a new engine? timing belts and valve seals aren't that big of a deal. those could be fixed for the cost of the engine purchase and install easily. AND the bigger issue is that while doing the valve job you could install the new updated headgasket - i would never put all the money out for a used EJ25, you're just inheriting a high risk potential head gasket failure, not worth that kind of money to me. do yours with new Subaru head gaskets and call it a day?? yeah you just want an EJ25, doesn't even have to be a 1998. if it's not a direct swap (which most are), all you have to do is bolt your intake manifold onto the new engine. the intake manifold has the wiring connectors, sensors and all the electrical gizmo's on it, so that makes swapping easy. 1996-2003 EJ25 should be fine...probably even later. for the JDM you may have to swap your intake manifold, the on i did (though not an EJ25 but it was a subaru) had completely different and unrelated wiring and connectors. swapped the intake manifold and all was good. or techincally you could go through the effort of swapping your engine wiring harness onto the JDM intake manifold, but swapping manifolds is easier. either way, there's nothing crazy about the JDM motors in terms of making them work. doesn't matter automatic to manual. the only time that matters is if you're installing an EJ22.

sweet, what do you cut a tap with?

there is a difference between pull it yourself yards and off the shelf. with pull it yourself you have to do all the work and you can't "call around" and find out what they have. you have to hope they have what you need. stuff that is common, they'll have it. stuff that is not, hit or miss. so you spend your time searching....going back, and then back or asking friends, and then time removing the parts which are off of cars sitting in the yard likely to have rusted bolts and might have broken parts from the last person that played with it. now...this doesn't happen much, and it's easy to get a great deal from the pull it yourself yards, i've done that before too. but it is a different market. and sholudn't surprise anyone that NY prices are higher. i picked up a 101,000 mile trans with a warranty a couple weeks ago for $150 and may go get another. quick phone call and a done deal. all that time searching and pulling parts with no warranty isn't worth the opportunity cost for me.

what nipper said - accessory belts are not typically 100,000+ mile items and the load put on them varies tremendously on alternator and air conditioner condition and useage.

"dual range" has nothing to do with this as a strict comparison. i guess it does if you're talking about dual range because that's what you already have. in terms of snow driving there's no difference between the old school dual range and single range transmissions or the XT6 AWD transmissions, they will have the same performance for what you're talking about. and the XT6 transmission is an AWD transmission, but it has a center differential lock. so are you asking about the differences between EA versus EJ (no center diff lock)? the key is the ability to lock the center differential, which is definitely better in the snow. any EA manual trans allows you to do that, the newer AWD does not. in the snow driving i've done the EJ transmissions are nice but there is no comparison to having a locked diff. EA (or ER - XT6) manual transmissions are superior in the snow/off road considering you can actually lock the differential. for the newer EJ stuff i think it sucks they don't have the ability to lock the center diff. with the automatics you can funtionally "lock" the rear transfer clutches using the duty C switch mod. in that case the automatics outperform the manuals considering you can lock them which you can't in the manuals. speaking of differentials, the clutch style are better than the viscous style for the "stuck verses unstuck" situations you're talking about in the snow. to be master of snow, snow tires will be a far better investment and safety upgrade over the differences between dual range and AWD.

hold on, this might be a simple fix. i've seen the bolts jump over tabs before...can't really explain it too well.....but it could be just as easy as putting it back how it's supposed to be, 'ive done it before. first time it was easiest for me to pull both drivers side and passengers side door panels to see how things are supposed to line up. by comparing the two it was obvious that the one bolt/stopper/plastic tab thing (sorry, i know nothing about the right names for these parts), but it wasn't lined up right, it was as if the stopper was jumped. i loosen one bolt enough to bend or turn the stopper out of the way to bring the window where it should be and all was good. very easy fix.

yep, far easier to just buy one with AWD but it certainly is possible. a 95 subaru can be found so cheap it's just not worth all that effort. you could make an a$$load of money in the time it would take to source all of those parts and do the conversion. very high opportunity costs. but it is possible.

it's not in the bumper is it?

hey! i just know myself - i suck and hate doing wiring work of any kind and know others do too. i don't even like wiring a freaking switch, so an engine swap like this is painful. some people like it though, oh to be them for a day!

oh sweet - passengers or drivers side? is it easy to see under there?

i agree but it depends why the person is asking. if they're thinking an STi engine in their soob would be cool, then it's probably not going to happen. i assume they're hoping it's really easy and cheap, so best to let them know the custom nature of the job. if they are serious it's unlikely they needed to ask in the first place. given he didn't ask about any specific information or questions i am guessing he is not well versed in swapping engines.

how much do you trust this mechanic? a second opinion is not a terrible idea. it does sound like the engine is trashed if what the mechanic said is remotely true. the part about a copper bushing sounds like complete nonsense to me, but maybe something is lost in the translation. you could have a used engine swapped in for around the $1,200 range.

distributor alignment pictures were posted in this thread: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=86635#86635 problem is it looks like the pictures are not available right now for some reason. not sure what happened, but i posted a message to the original poster of the photos, hopefully he can re-post them for you? this is the easiest way to get them right.

okay so this is an 87 GL EA82T. first thing is to verify the distributor is lined up properly. that's probably all it is. something i am not sure of but you might want to consider is if the distributor is the right one. there are some wiring differences across 1987 models that gets confusing. not sure if that's XT related only or not, but i think there are other oddities across other models then as well. i know ECU's and wiring are flakey, the distributors may be as well.

i didn't respond because i don't have anything good to say, nothing you want to hear. my recommendation is to not base business decisions on responses you get to this thread. price depends on many things, particularly the market and how you plan to enter the market. the quicker you want to sell the less your price will likely be. the more marketing you can do the better. i don't think this is an ideal market place for the feedback you're looking for either.

yes it's possible and it's probably been done. been done to a justy, can't imagine a GL has never been attempted. plan on it being a stand-alone job without much help though. this will be mostly custom work with lots of custom wiring and fabricating, nothing will be easy about it. but yeah, it's possible. you can put a V8 in there if you want.