idosubaru

nice score mike, that's great! now call jeff and phil and have them help you fix it! you can call me for...encouragement or something. odd place to rust...kind of mid part of the door, not the very bottom? should be an easy fix or just replace the door some day if you want. mental lapse, you must of forgot about the XT??? har har, it's late i should go to bed.

also need a good battery to turn the engine over properly. for example, try turning it over by hand and you won't get good readings (understatement). the FSM relates compression to RPM's...at least the older soobs it does. i know you guys know that, but figured i'd throw it in there.

if your 4 bike carrier is a 2" variety (all of the 4 bike racks are and mine is), don't get a 1 1/4" receiver. you'll end up needing an adapter and the adapters really suck because they only allow you to slide the bike rack to the first hole in shaft. this will make it stick out REALLY far....hitch, plus adapter and insert to first hole, leaving the rest hanging and bouncing. very dangerous and certainly not good for the bikes either, bottom out like crazy. i've done it and it was very unnerving and i damaged a bike... so i went and bought 2" receiver stock, you can buy it in lengths to make your own receiver. it was only like 9 bucks. some plate steel where needed and you're golden. if you still want a 1 1/4" hitch, i'll sell you the one that worked on my XT6...and the adapter too!

thanks, i'm following along. i'll want to have a look at mine as well.

okay looks like i'm hosed. gotta swap trans. how was that guy offering to fix it for $100? he was going to pull the trans and tear it down for that much?

oh right on skip. 4EAT in an XT6 AWD automatic.

my speedometer doesn't worked. it's not the cable and it's not the instrument cluster...so it must be inside the transmission/front differential. i'm hosed aren't i?

the codes need to be read. "car is toast", that's not enough info to go on. he should have the codes read (takes one minute and parts stores do it for free). post back to us what the codes are. worst case, shop charges $50 to do it. did it loose any coolant (easy to check, anyone can do it, requires no tools). did it overheat? is the overflow tank full or empty or where it should be? adding a quart of oil is chump change, that did nothing to the motor. i hear nothing yet that's telling me the motor is hosed. it could be as simple as a spark plug wire or ignition coil. $40 repairs.

good point, i'm not saying they won't work or that they fail every single time...but after working on dozens of engines and different vehicles, the aftermarkets tend to cause problems on EJ motors where the Subaru's (or magnecors) are 100% successful. i've seen brand new, off the shelf, wires cause Check Engine lights and "cylinder misfire XXX" codes. and it's common to see it on here as well, you can do a search to find similar examples. they will work most of the time, but others will work every single time. to each his own on risk, time management, etc.

if you're going into the thousands mark, then just get a CCR engine. highly touted among the Subaru crowd. if i were looking at costs far beyond $1,000 i would just get one of their new engines. comes with a 3 year 36,000 miles warranty and top notch service...those numbers are from memory, but the service is from experience. pretty sure they'll beat that $5,000 remanned price by a long shot and you'll get much better quality and service from them. they know Subaru's and they are active on this board, highly respected. if you want the car another 5 years or more, then this is your best bet in my oppinion and you've got a car that can do that. if the body is in good shape and rust isn't getting bad this would be a great option as the vehicle is capable of many more miles. if it's a manual trans then definitely as they rarely fail. if it's an auto trans and the trans is in good shape then you should be fine as well. have the ATF flushed and replace the spin on, external oil filter. i would want the new headgaskets if i were installing a used block. if you can find any locally, learn how to tell if it has the new updated headgaskets. you could look and see if they have been replaced visually. you could easily come across one with the new headgasket design already in them and use that without replacing the headgasket. post in the parts wanted section here.

same code. taped pins into connector and still getting the code. reset the code, restarted and it was clear. came back within one mile of driving (car was already warm). i'll probably replace it. anyone know if rear and front are the same? anyone know if EJ22 and EJ25 front O2's are the same? i'll find out tomorrow at the dealer, but if anyone knows, fire away.

if the EGR is giving issues, i would check that. they "say" it doesn't or shouldn't cause problems. my 97 OBS shifts like crap with the EGR code im' having. i've replaced the valve and solenoid and it's still doing it. if his is an automatic i'd definitely look into the EGR components first, it definitely effects shifting at least. i'd have the codes checked and address those first. Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone and others will check the codes for free. shops charge $50-$75. ignition stuff comes to mind as well. i would'nt be surprised to see a "cylinder misfire" code come up. the wires should be Subaru only, the only accetable alternative is Magnecor. these engines are unfortunately stubborn like that.

be sure to check your timing marks and the tensioner. are the marks staying dead on? you still doing the leak down test?

more thought...88-91 XT might be good to check, if it's for the 4 cylinder it has to be EA82 - no EA81 possible and no turbo possible either. might remove some confusion and FWD are identical to AWD.

oh, no joke. friend of mine bought a subaru axle a week or two ago from advanced and the new ones had no core charge (Cardone i think it was). you could also check it against an XT axle, they never, ever came with an EA81. so as long as it's a non-turbo XT it will fit yours as well. might want to check those - 88-91 XT's (4 cylinder). it should match the wagon axle. good luck!

sorry, i posted that while you were posting as well, so i didn't see your response before i hit "reply". what's the mileage? if #3 got you 180, it doesnt' sound like a timing belt. did you turn the engine over by hand with the valve cover removed? i would make sure it's all turning properly, timing belt, cam and valve train. and make sure the timing belt is properly tensioned. you can partially get at the timing belt by removing the side covers only, just 3 bolts or something like that. was the car ever overheated, run out of oil or leaking oil? a leaking injector will damage your cylinder walls and piston ring...but that is rare. another rare possibility is a timing tensioner is failing. i've seen them appear fine static but deflect and give under load....i doubt it though, that's a very rare case. just thinking of easy things to check before assuming bad engine mojo. the leak down test should tell you a lot.

did you test the other cylinders and what did you get? testing one cylinder, one time isn't great information. typically it's good practice to test all the cylinders 2 or 3 times to get a solid read on what's going on.

yep, i've heard other people that just always ask for an 89 wagon to get the right EA82 parts as well. make sure it's a non-turbo and you should be golden. having the other axle (that you returned) or the original with you will make it loads easier. since you're buying new you should be able to keep your original...for next time!

the wires didn't tear, the pins pulled out of the connector. you think that's the front sensor then? bank 1, sensor 1 or whatever? the front and rear do show up differently in the codes right?

i replaced the EGR valve, cleaning out all the passages along the way. replaced the solenoid as well. still getting the EGR code and the erratic shifting is really annoying from this thing (automatic). replaced the valve and solenoid...what next? i tested both solenoids too, both tested fine and got a code with both, so don't think those are the issue.

didn't find much doing a search so figured i'd start a new one. got this code on a 1998 Legacy GT. i accidentally ripped the wires out of the connector and, comparing them to another unit, reconnected and taped them up. the CEL was on before this and i never checked it, and was one after this as well, so i can't really tell if the issue was there before or not. this is Bank 1 Sensor 1 - is that the front sensor? should swapping in another sensor fix this? and can anyone verify that's the front sensor?

some newer (late 80's) soobs are still EA81 so make sure you check it and verify it's an EA82 vehicle/axle. you still haven't said, but i guess yours is an EA82?

this isn't about the car, what about that girlfriend. why is she telling you what to do? if she doesn't understand your hobby then she needs to learn or you need to move on with girlfriends, not cars!! let wise financial decisions drive your decision here...not her, not a car addiction and not us. if you're financially set and throwing money at a car isn't a big deal, then do what you want, (not what she wants). if finances are a concern then make the best decision you can now...you'll thank yourself later. don't let vehicles financially strap you, that's a bad strategy for success. make good decisions NOW and you'll be able to do what you want LATER. EA82's can be good, reliable vehicles and are an excellent choice for saving cash. if not...then you'll never really be able to do what you want. either way, don't let her make decisions for you, period. it's not about being mean, stubborn and macho about it, but someone who cares will like the fact that you enjoy hobbies and support you in them, assuming those hobbies don't run your life of course.

i can not find that thread from the guy who has done it a few times. i searched and came up with nothing. him and i exchanged a few threads within that post and it was within the past year. by marking it and counting the turns you should be golden.

could it be an EA81 versus EA82 difference? both are "1800's". and no, it definitely should not have pulled apart. i've put some grunt into many CV's and they've never come apart like that. now is when you pipe up and mention the come along right?