idosubaru

i would get two new clutch retaining clips as well. the old ones are usually rusty and brittle by now and the cost is tiny. you'll probably want a center console from a manual so it looks right. if the brake light switch isn't on the pedal assembly, grab that too. transmission mounts are different from auto to manual on XT's, but that should come with the trans.

you're sure they installed a new one? did they use a Subaru thermostat? aftermarket thermostats are tiny, dinky, whimpy little things compared to the Subaru. if they didn't use a Subaru thermostat, get one, they are amazingly better. those are minor and easy checks worth making, but it does sound like the cooling system just isn't up to task, it's working under full capacity. i'd suspect a clogged radiator as well.

we can't guess what happened, but basically what he said. corrossion inside the boot...if it allows corossion once it will likely happen again. arcing...reseating may have helped...just random thoughts, not that yours did either of those, but it can happen. correct, NGK's on the EJ series engines, particularly yours. these, particularly the motor you have too, are sensitive when it comes to plugs and wires. you could get away with another 5 years, so who knows, time...and the handy CEL will tell. no matter if it's 5 months or 5 years from now, be sure to use Subaru only spark plugs wires on this EJ25, no matter what anyone tells you.

welcome to the world of XT's lisa. whatever you see leaking, remove it and replace it. are you going to be doing the work yourself? if it's in front of the engine, that doesn't necessarily sound like a turbo line, but doesn't really matter. at this point, replacing any hose and clamps you can is a good idea. if you want to restore the vehicle then now might be a good time to replace all the 20 year old hoses and clamps all around the motor. can you post of picture of where it's leaking? your engine is an EA82T which is offered in many subaru's during the time period and there is a wealth of information here. keeping in mind that if yours is a late enough model XT Turbo it will have a spider intake which is rather rare and not found on any other subaru (unless it was swapped in of course). in any event, for XT specific info, check us out at xt6.net, it's an XT dedicated forum with lots of XT experience. i've owned about 20 of them. i might add that it's one stellar group of people. i get those midwest states mixed up but pretty sure we have a member or few out your way somewhere. if you decide to join xt6.net, send me a PM or email with your user name and i'll make sure to approve you and get you rolling right away. i'm a moderator and can push you through, right now we're flitering all new users to prevent abuse.

pulling the cats may help, i don't know, didn't help 2 XT6's i played with but that's not a huge sample size and i never dyno'ed them. they seemed to run better with a muffler than a straight exhaust pipe as well...but maybe that's me, again i've never dyno'ed anything. my best results were with slightly larger pipe from the cat back and a straight through style dynomax muffler. all i have are gas mileage numbers to go on and they were best with that combo as well. and of course this is all with an XT6, 6 cylinder so it's not even the same vehicle or motor. i would imagine dynomax might be a good one to ask if you're buying the cams from them anyway. did they offer any info?

risk management. take the risk: %5 change of failure. 95% chance of success. change the belt - %99.5 chance of success. noone will agree on how to manage risk, so inform yourself and make your decisions. i'll say it again... unlike your previous GL engine this new engine is an interference design. if the timing belt does break, pistons and valves collide and you'll be needing a new engine or a very costly rebuild. it does happen, saw a forester this week actually.

they have more than one style of EA82 cam available, which one? hopefully not the "track only" version, it's brutal. adjusting your ignition and playing with fuel grades might help. from memory the dyno shows and ER27 can get 7hp just by advancing the timing and running higher octane. might be worth something for autocross slightly larger pipe and replacing the stock muffler from an XT6 helps some, but replacing the converter with straight pipe or a high flow converter did not help at all (i've done both on an XT6). can't imagine a smaller engine being much different. i'm not saying it's a bad idea but if everything is working properly replacing the cat might not be worth much to you.

that is one option. it could have been a loose/bad connection, my guess is that you'll see the code come up again in 6 months or so. if it comes up again i'd plan on getting new wires.

nah, the 15.9 gallon capacity is common, even XT6's built in the 80's have 15.9 gallon tanks. there are some variances, but yours is 15.9.

good point, i saw that mentioned before, but the battery is fine i think. starts, runs and drives fine without any problems. but i'm glad you brought it up...would the light go away once the issue was resolved? the ABS has been on quite awhile...when i had the battery out, disconnected, charging, etc. i haven't cleared the codes yet. will do that today and see if they come back.

??? really? that doesn't add anything to this discussion. i know mike, we are over at xt6.net, so i knew he worked at a dealer probably the first day he got the job. everyone who has worked at one Subaru dealership for a year will know all there is to know about Subaru's? and will know more than others absorbed in more than one dealer over an extended period of time? i don't think so. if that were the case, this kind of information wouldn't be so mystical. he works at a dealer, and dealers have all years coming in with issues. seeing one vehicle with a problem doesn't surprise me, that's where people take new vehicles, still under warranty, when they have problems. nearly every vehicle ever made will have some come back to the dealer for warranty work or return within a short period of time after that. deducing whether it's anecdotal or a trend and an issue takes a lot of data. Subaru doesn't publish or make that kind of information public, nor to employees. if they did, we'd already have this question answered by now.

any recent work done in the past year? yep, find out what the code is. autozone and advanced auto parts check the code for free. here's a hint - don't tell us what the guy behind the counter "thinks" it is, tell us the exact codes from the print out/scanner. more often than not we will know more than the dude behind the counter does about subaru's. most likely it'll be something simple to fix that is "common" enough to have been seen before: cylinder misfire - new spark plug wires, easy. knock sensor - the housings crack - get another one, it's one 12mm bolt to replace it. O2 sensor - you're getting to the age where it's not a bad idea to replace the front one anyway. just requires a 22mm wrench, that's it...oh and two hands! cam and crank sensors aren't that rare either - replacement is very easy. EGR - i hate them, but it won't take much to fix that either. so...report to us what the scanner tells you and we'll help you fix, probably fairly cheap (a whole lot cheaper than taking it to a mechanic).

there's significant real world evidence that points to mid-2002 being a "cutoff" for the 2.5 headgasket issues. that they still occur after that doesn't necessarily mean anything, it could be anecdotal. i haven't seen or heard of any headgasket issue trends after mid-2002. trends being the operative word in that last sentence. speaking to those submerged in the industry, with contacts to dealerships, service departments and data suggests that mid-2002 is a valid "cut off" for the headgasket issue frequently talked about. coming from a valid source is fairly convicting, but comparing that to real world evidence and it starts to support what was already being said in this forum and others quite awhile ago. i wonder if anyone knows when Subaru started installing the "new" headgasket design in production vehicles?

drive it a lot, those engines loose headgaskets fairly often (got a couple i could show you at my place). look for signs of overheating. actually...look for new headgaskets, it may have them and you can tell just by popping the hood. at that mileage 'id want the timing components checked. not just the belt, but the pullies as well should be inspected. many people will just throw a new belt on an be satisfied, that's not good practice for this engine and an excellent vehicle that could easily go another 100,000 miles. good luck!

never worked on the newer ones, but i can't imagine it not being 1/2", you sure it's loose? did you try putting and extension in there as well?

the rotors are rusted a good deal from sitting, maybe the ton ring/sensor are contaminated from sitting as well? i'll remove the sensor and have a look at that. how do i look at the tone wheel? i've never looked at one or seen one...and knew what it was anyway! i get the general idea, just never poked around at one before. thanks OBW!

i was going to mention replacing the boot like that, but figured you might chime in since you've done it. that's awesome, my reasoning is the same...just different scenarios, rust. in my experience the rear diff bolts have never been rusted, they've always come off very easily. and if the nut doesn't come off the rear diff, it'll just back the stud out of the diff like a bolt. i've removed a lot of rear diffs and never had a bit of trouble. but the hub/strut/trailing arm bolts are horrendous with rust on the ones i've had. they're so bad i wouldn't attempt the job unless i'm at home with my welder, torch, bolt kits, drills, etc. i've had sheared bolts, nuts/heads rusted so bad that a socket won't grab them, rounded off bolts...etc. i guess it just depends how/where they rust? my experience is mostly XT6 stuff, maybe they tend to rust differently for some reason. same with the EJ stuff, i hate dealing with rusted rear suspension stuff, serious PITA, it's a MD thing maybe?

Read the codes on my 98 Legacy GT sedan since the ABS light was on and it acts funny. Code 22 and 24 came up - Front right and front left ABS sensor circuit codes . The car did set for awhile. Any tips, i'm wondering if this isn't really sensor related but dirty something?

i always unbolt the differential. those bolts are never difficult to remove (rusted/corroded) like the trailing arm bolts and no worries with alignment either. the diff is heavy, you'll see once you remove the one in your parts car, so if you hate or have problems moving around heavy stuff this might not be for you. you can leave it connected to the driveshaft, just drop it down to give you plenty of play. have liquid wrench or PB blaster ready, they sometimes don't want to slide off. someone in another thread said heating them with a torch helps getting them off too. any word on when those parts are supposed to get to you?

does the transmission shift fine or seem to lag sometimes too?

Subaru's timing change interval didn't come about from the expected life of the chain only. that they may be more conservative in supplying the market with their first timing chain vehicle and they're working with dealerships all over the world that have never needed to support chain driven motors...is really no surprise from a corporate point of view. i realize subaru's are not trucks...but with enormous engines, towing and strains far above that of a subaru, there are many trucks on the road with 200,000 and 300,000 miles on the original timing chains. they routinely go hundreds of thousands of miles without any need of timing chain and water pump work, makes them very simple to operate eventhough they still have interference engines. i don't know how transferable this concept is to vehicles. but i wonder how conservative they're being with their interval. is the water pump still require timing chain removal to replace, that's really annoying!

it won't be if it's a 4.11 unless them crazy dudes got different options than us US peeps. but i don't think they did in final drives. that should be an early legacy turbo rear diff (don't know if they're called that over there). do you have access to an FSM, the specs would be in there? or check out a legacy board i would think they'd know a good deal about that rear diff.

no. the last subaru headgasket problem was done away with in mid 2002, that was five years ago. subaru (and many other manufacturers) have had many headaches over this, i don't think they'll neglect the headgasket in the future. japanese companies made QC what it is today, that's why american manufacturers are finally playing catch up...thank you richard deming. based on their operational philosophy in this regard it is unlikely they'll throw "any old" head gasket design into production. and in general, manufacturers headgasket design has finally caught up with other performance enhancements. sure anything can happen...but it is unlikely at best.

New2XT's....everything you need is right here. don't click on anything. scroll to the bottom of this screen you're looking at right now. on the bottom left is a list of "Similar Threads", it basically does a search for you. i clicked on one and got excellent information...exactly what you're looking for. i think it was the third one down the list "Dual Range tranny?" check out the search button. i like to click on search, then click on advanced search and click on the button for "search titles only". you would have had what you were looking for in seconds.

turbo GL-10 - 115 hp. non turbo makes 90 hp, about what your old wagon made. that will make it a bit nicer. i wouldn't expect a race car, they aren't all that fast but it should feel sufficiently better than your 86 that you won't be disappointed. on to the best news, i'm almost positive the GL-10 turbo 88 should have the 4EAT transmission. that's the same transmission in the XT6 and it is a great auto trans. it is orders of magnitudes better than the 3AT. your 86 should have had the 3AT transmission in it, those things suck. the 4EAT is very reliable for an auto trans. that's what i drive, if they weren't reliable i wouldn't be using it as my DD.