idosubaru

that makes perfect sense, seems like what it shoudl have looked like, but didn't. how does it get so chipped up on the end?

xt6 is down right now so that's jacked up.

legacy with hydraulic clutch mechanism. the engine vibrates some and the piston of the hydraulic cluch mechanism rubs against the clutch fork, making a light noise occassionally. is it supposed to be tighter than that? everything runs and works perfectly otherwise. doesn't appear to be any adjustment to it...but i bet 'im wrong?

how did you know the tone ring was bad? are these sensors available aftermarket or dealer only? thanks kids, i'll replace it.

i don't mean to be captain obvious here, but let's talk about the elephant in the room that everyone else is avoiding. what do you expect to see in the hospital? broken people that need help. when people have problems with a subaru, where do they come, USMB. that you see many posts is a tribute to many things, not necessarily the deficiency of a subaru. i'd attribute it to good management, good people, and knowledgable folks willing to help. don't see that on many other boards. dont' know about where you live but 4WD trucks are very expensive around my parts. and american cars suck monkey nuts for reliability. not too mention i hate trucks as daily drivers anyway. and i say that not out of jealousy or desire, because i own a full size ford and it sucks on gas, sucks in the rain, handles horrible, and i hate driving it in parking lots, cities, long distance, there's no trunk, someone can break into it....i love it for other reasons but i'd hate a truck for a daily driver. i use it as needed. japanese manufacturers tend to have excellent products capable of reliability for cheap. that's appealing to many people particularly when you can get very capable 4WD with it. welcome to older Subaru's.

98 legacy GT sedan. it had codes 22 and 24 (front left and right ABS sensor codes). i pulled them and both had tons of metal flakes all over them. cleaned them up, cleared the ABS light and the ABS light is no longer on but the ABS will activate under light braking some times. when cleaning, i noticed the front passengers side ABS sensor seemed corroded or damaged at the tip, just didn't seem nice and machined, though i don't know what a brand new one looks like. could this be causing the problem?

that won't hurt the struts at all. i off roaded my old daily driver a ton and i've never lost a strut in 100's of thousands of miles of XT6 air suspension madness. snow, mud, i've buried my XT6 a few times where mud/water is pouring in the door when i get out....etc. so yeah i've hit it with some off road dirtiness. the strut is just an air bag. clean them occassionally for good measure. read my thread on air strut maintenance and you'll see the weak spot of the struts, what causes them to fail early and how to prevent it. off roading will exacerbate that, so read up and keep them clean.

don't know much about legacy air suspension. the XT6 air suspension is awesome...or i should say, i really, really like. i have some detailed information and pic's on how to recondition your struts. do that to decent struts and replace all of your o-rings and the system isn't all that bad. actually i ran my last daily driver to 220,000 miles and retained the air suspension the entire time (owned since 105,000) without ever replacing anything...i don't think i did anyway, a compressor at most. i've never had to replace an air strut. i drove that vehicle off road quite a bit. the problem is there are o-rings every where. 5 at the air compressor, two in the air tank, one at each front strut and two at each rear strut (and there are different sizes). having an extra complete air suspension for parts is nice too, i'd hate to have mine break down and nothing to go on, even though that hasn't happened yet. address all of those things and system reliability increase DRAMATICALLY. the problem is, very few people do that or want to or have a need to. in the XT6 it's worth it to me, i really dig the air suspension and like being able to play with it. but for most people, i'd suggest converting as it can be a real PITA to mess with. particularly with legacy stuff, decent struts are probably a dime a dozen for that vehicle, i'd be much more prone to convert it coil overs. the XT6 is rather messy to convert and get a solid ride out of it. and that hassle isn't worth the loss of flexibility for me.

EA81 or EA82 and what vehicle? fusible link or bad ground. the fusible link box is inside the engine bay of most soobs, by the battery in a little box. pull each one and check it. they can hold together but still be in bad shape, need to pull back the sheating and have a look if that's the case. or just swap in some good ones. did you test the battery? how good were the jumper cables? badly rusted or cheap ones sometimes don't work so well (i have a pair that i really want to shoot at times that i just need to send to the dumpster).

that's how they all are, just because you can see them doesn't mean anything. most EA and ER series heads have these cracks and they are all very visible, they look horrible. did they confirm the cracks were causing the leaks? cracks between the valves and up in the exhaust ports? wow, this thing gets seriously worked doesn't it!

oh man, that's a good call, but annoying to fix. any way that he can test it? check it with the front end off the ground, ie unloaded?

i wouldn't go with surge brakes myself. i'd go with electric.

i'd stick with stock. aftermarkets aren't as reliable. at the very least, get one and keep stock in the trunk. or just keep a spare in the trunk. if a couple work for people convinces you, then go ahead and get one, it's not like they all fail. but in general the aftermarkets don't have a good record. you can search here for lots of info, i've done it before and it's always convinced me to stick with stock...eventhough i want something new.

if you replaced the ball joints i doub they're the issue i was thinking they were original. i doubt it's the steering rack bushings, but they're easy to check and replace. the warn rack bushings i've seen cause drifting and delayed response to steering input. if you had that, you'd know exactly what i'm talking about, it's annoying! some aftermarket/stiffer bushings should work. i use aftermarket impreza/WRX steering rack bushings in my XT6.

does it make it with the engine off? i know that sounds crazy, but i've heard the idle air jokers buzz and hum with the engine off, key on. swap them and they still do it....but otherwise everything runs and works fine.

trailer brakes are awesome, yes. my next trailer for my truck will have trailer brakes, all of that weight will push you around and that is not a fun place to be. your car will tow it, as a matter of fact that legacy will tow another legacy on a dolly if you wanted to. is it a good idea, no. is it safe, no. will it do it, yes. it's a real bad idea. it doesn't take much/long for towing to get dangerous really fast. i've had trailers push large trucks before and it will scare you. your transmission would be way down the list of concerns. go easy, go slow and don't be in a rush. make sure the trailer tracks straight before you use and load it - if it's in uknown condition or hasn't been pulled before. pay attention to how the trailer is loaded as well.

i doubt you need new heads. cracks between the valve seats? those are common and don't mean the heads are ruined at all. it's superficial and doesn't cause any problems. they can be used that way just fine. they can also be repaired. i have them all repaired because it doesn't cost much. i think every EA82, EA82T, and ER27 i've ever pulled has cracks between the valve seats, very common. most on the road today probably have cracks.

what about the ball joints, sounds like what one might do if it were really bad. i'd carefully inspect the tie rods and ball joints since they pose significant risks if they fail. i'd vote for strut related. do the strut top mounts look okay, yous seems too new for these to be a problem though. but i've seen a number of strut tops with deep/severe cracking in the top rubber. i've often wondered what they would do if it cracked "too much". edit - nipper posting at the same time - i'm with nipper, not the rack itself.

yep, i've bought that exact kit before. excellent deal.

i have a full set of timing pulleys and crank pulley as well. that's an artifact of when i had the original pulleys in it, mine are all repacked now so it's probably not necessary anymore. good luck rob!

what do you mean by coupe? an impreza or legacy? the car will do it just fine, but remember every time you tow or add weight you are increasing risk. that's why some will say "no way" and others "oh yeah, i towed another car across the country with my justy". so yeah, lots of things are possible, just depends on how much you value safety and mitigate risk. many oppinions forthcoming.... 1400 pounds is quite heavy particularly if you plan on loading it with more stuff....traveling, food, bags, equipment, camping, tools...you might get close to 2000. that's a lot of weight for a small vehicle. i would be very cautious about towing something this heavy and in general would'nt recommend it. not because it can't do it..but it's not safe for everyone to be doing it. first thing is brakes. even with my full size truck i'm getting trailers with brakes. that's a very good idea. if your "coupe" is an impreza, then it has rear drums and small front brakes. if it's a legacy the brakes are much better, larger in the front and discs in the rears. i would feel much better with a legacy over an impreza. or consider upgrading your impreza brakes, that's what i do. if anything happens you will loose control very quickly with nearly 2000 pounds behind you. if you have an automatic then you'll probably want to look at a dedicated transmission cooler.

that's a good question. NASIOC might have more answers for that. i haven't seen many post 2002 engine swap threads here. i can't recall any "easy" engine swaps past 2002 so i can't say. i wouldn't be surprised if it's easy, but i don't know when/if they've made any changes from 2003 until now.

all of this info is on here. remove EJ25 - install EJ22. no need to swap wiring or intake manifold. here are the simplest directions i can give: to avoid EGR issues, get an EJ22 with EGR. you can use an EJ22 without EGR if you don't mind bypassing it (it's a POS set up anyway). get the exhaust headers for an EJ22 unless you use a 1995 then you don't need the headers. the reason the 1995 automatic is desirable is it has an EGR valve and dual port exhaust. you'll swap your EJ25 a/c bracket to the EJ22. it's easiest to get the EJ22 power steering lines that bolt to the pump to be clean and neat about it, but not entirely necessary.

the easiest is a 2.2 with an EGR valve. if you get a 1995 the only added bonus is that they have dual port exhaust liket he 2.5 so the 2.5 existing exhaust bolts right up. if you get another year 2.2 with EGR, just get the exhaust/ ypipe with it and bolt that up. it's that simple. you can bypass the EGR system as well, but that takes some extra work.

that clip is a subaru only item, you probably figured that. that's usually not a problem, usually comes out easily with the torque converter and goes right back in as an assembly no problem. the first generation of 4EAT's had a ring seal around the exterior of that tube. check the parts sheets when you go to order one and see if it's on the newer ones as well. you might want to replace that. subaru calls it a "ring seal". it's a very odd piece.