idosubaru

fix-a-flat type sealant can work. i also know of someone that used an aircraft grade rubber/flexible sealant that worked as well. he covered the entire air bag with it, making it particularly thick at the leak. he was an airplace mechanic. i have a tube of the stuff at home and could give you the name of it, but i'm betting you can't get it there. i'm sure the airports have something similar though. if you have 2 others, i would try to find out where they are leaking from. they may not be leaking from the bags. you should be able to hook the rear struts up to any airline on the vehicle and have it pump them up, then disconnect them once they're full. since the solenoid is integrated to the strut you can disconnect the lines without pressure being released. so air them up and find the leakage points. you'll want to air up any strut you get anyway so you can clean them and paint them. you don't even need to install the strut...just hold it in your hand and hook up any air line to it. you could use one of the front air lines since they are accessible from the engine bay. install on the strut, open the solenoid and have the compressor air it up. never dnoe it, but i know it can be done.fijje can you post a picture of the leaks? of the one i sent you? that was a good strut. was the package damaged at all when you received it?

the OBS has a typical issue where the rear sags (see Zapar's post about sagging rear end OBS's). are you saying the struts are to blame and not the springs? i think he fixed his by installing WRX rear springs and new struts. seems like new struts should fix it...bring it back to stock so to speak. does that mean the stock struts are weak, since this is common? as far as ABS and non ABS struts, my guess is that they're supplying ABS compatible struts to everyone...just the non-ABS vehicles won't use the brackets. this is quite common in the auto industry to try and make one part suitable for multiple applications. i have no experience with the struts but seen this multiple times on other parts, so wouldn't be surprised to see it here.

the OBS has a typical issue where the rear sags (see Zapar's post about sagging rear end OBS's). are you saying the struts are to blame and not the springs? i think he fixed his by installing WRX rear springs. as far as ABS and non ABS struts, my guess is that they're supplying ABS compatible struts to everyone...just the non-ABS vehicles won't use the brackets. this is quite common in the auto industry to try and make one part suitable for multiple applications. i have no experience with the struts but seen this multiple times on other parts, so wouldn't be surprised to see it here.

glad you found it, the search function is completely lacking in one way, you need 4 letters. sometimes a place holder will help like KYB* or *KYB. or do a search for "front springs" or "rear springs", this gives some good results. it ends up being a game....sucks real bad to want XT6, OBS, WRX, ABS, TPS, MAF...etc, information.

are you aware of the search function? some things have been covered multiple times and those people won't necessarily pipe up, show up or see your thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73603&highlight=rear+springs within the thread listed above i believe is a link to NASIOC that explains very specifically the interchangeability of many year/make/model subaru's. that's for the rear, i'm sure NASIOC has a very detailed thread about fronts as well. i saw a number of threads when searching here that would probably give you some good information as well.

HA! ...maybe that's the problem, i'm giving too much advice and people are following it!

okay back to the drawing board...what keeps the clutch fork tight to the hydraulic cylinder? it's not tight to it and will make noise occassionally.

that's the way to go, that's what i have. most people don't get one because they don't know what it is! tuck it away and run the cord to wherever you want.

definitely worth it. whatever you do...don't even think about JB Weld or anything like that, i'm surprised noone mentioned it yet. use a helicoil or similar insert. how much material came off with it? sometimes they loose a good bit of material when they come out. is it the pulley that tensions the belt, that's the one that normally does this. be glad it didn't shear off (that happens too) or take a huge chunk out with (that also happens). wow...these little buggers cause a fair amount of big problems now that i think about it. anyway...if you can drill and use a helicoil, you're fine. if you've never used one, don't be too worried about it, it's not complicated at all. depending which one it is, sometimes you have the option of finding a longer bolt as well. the bolt holes tend to be deeper than the bolts used. so finding a longer bolt can sometimes work. but based on what you're telling me, i'm guessing that won't work on this one. it definitely works on the passengers side XT6 ones and the cam bolts. and not to mention those bolts on the drivers side are rather large. you could check though as there are 3 pulleys on that side and i'm uncertain which one you're talking about. if you find signficant depth to use, then chase the existing threads with a tap, then chase your new bolt with a die to make sure the threads are perfect. often requires cutting a bolt that's too long to get the exact right depth or using a washer under the head as a spacer. there's also the option of just upgrading one size bolt...go slightly larger either english units or metric. tap the existing hole out and use a larger bolt, but the pulley may then need work as well because the bolt may not fit through it. but this does avoid the issue of drilling into your heads and installing a helicoil. not trying to loose focus, but give you as many options as possible. i'll try to follow this thread, if you have a specific question and i don't see it, hit me with a PM or email.

removing the pump is a good idea but you'll have the fluid to deal with. it's really easy to remove. i believe it's only 6 bolts that have to be removed, and they come out very easily. and they have to come off to replace the brushes anyway because you have to be able to move the pump up and out of the bracket a bit to replace the brushes. then remove the wires, which also have to come off anyway to replace the brushes...well technically you could leave them connected but that is tricky and not much room to work with. then you'll just need screw drivers and a wrench to remove the hoses. then remove the pump and hold the hoses up and out of the way so they don't leak, plug them with bolts or something. then drain the pump into something. if you have a eye dropper you can nearly empty the pump before doing anything so not much fluid remains in it and it's easy to carry around without much fluid coming out. no matter what method you use, be careful prying on to remove and reinstalling the back plate, it will crack if abused. if you have these issues to deal with it may be easier to order the brushes ($15) and have a shop install them for you. i'd call around and see if any auto electrical shops would do it. let them know it's really easy and you'll have it ready for them to just replace the brushes. you'll only have to remove 4 12mm bolts that hold the pump in the bracket. with those removed it's just a matter of disassembling and reassembling an electric motor and an electrical/automotive shop would probably do that for not much money. the tricky parts: keeping the guts assembled when you reinstall them. the magnet inside the pump housing wants to pull the guts inside and out of the end cap, where the brushes reside, as you install it. have to keep trying or attempt to do it on the car (tricky). the next tricky part is seating everything to torque the bolts down...make sure it's seated fully, using the bolts to draw it tight is not a good idea, things will break. and...make sure you mark which wires go where, even if you think you'll remember.

the FET on the coil bracket might be suspect, they will cause a no-spark condition when they fail. i do not know how to test them though, other than swapping in a good one. have you checked the fusible links yet? not the fuses, but the fusible links. they are located in a little black, rectangular box next to the battery. remove each one and inspect it. from memory i think it's the second one from the front in the row that would be suspect. i can't recall if the car would even turn over if that one fails, don't know if the starter is on that circuit.

this is a really annoying job but i've dealt with it a number of times on XT6's. which pulley exactly? yes, use a helicoil. get a right angle drill or a right angle drill attachment - basically whatever you can find that is shallower, the shorter the better so it fits down in front of the engine. remove the radiator for extra room and anything else that's in the way....a/c, alternator, etc. then get the right size drill bit and you'll probably have to cut it in half. or just put it in a vice, wear some goggles and whack it with a hammer to break the bit in half, that's what i do. then use that in combination with the right angle drill. you can rent a right angle drill from tool rental places. hang in there, it's definitely doable...annoying, but you can swing it.

didn't think that this portion might meet specifications, that should be fairly simple. the FSM is dead wrong almost entirely for the IAC, no XT6 IAC will meet the spec's in the FSM. i adjust it by ear...basically turn it until it wants to stall then back it off a hair.

i would not spray anything liquid on the pulleys. the seals aren't all that "weather proof" so to speak, some amount of what you spray on there will probably get in. based on the fact that they all loose grease over time, i'm assuming stuff can pass both ways. wipe it off with a cloth, they typically come clean just fine that way. sounds like you got it right, they should feel a bit tight and not too loose or noisey. even loose/noisey ones will last quite a while (as evidenced by the many 20 year old EA82's on the road, most have pulleys like that), but it becomes a more substantial risk on an interference engine like yours. those 5% of failures are $1000 - $2000 fixes (major engine damage)...not $200 (like the older models.

best to inspect, there's really no "yes or no" answer without looking at it. i wouldn't replace it for no reason but i wouldn't assume it's good either. you are correct in assuming this pulley isn't a typically the first to cause issues. on these engines with 105,000 mile timing belt intervals i think an inb between inspection is very wise. if you do that, then leaving it becomes a non-issue. remove belt, inspect pulleys. at the first belt change you're looking at 200,000+ miles for the next replacement and that is a bit of a risk for timing pulleys. the real issue becomes down time...you don't want to pull it apart...then go scrounging for parts, that's really annoying. nice to have everything you need and put it together.

have you checked for spark at each plug wire and then also out of the coil? check fusible links. pull and inspect, don't just look at them. could just need a tune up...plugs, wires, cap, rotor. when you pull the cap to see if the rotor turns you can check the condition of the cap and rotor contacts while you're in there. the coil or the FET (it's the little wired mechanism that is attached to the coil bracket) may need replaced as well. the FET is grounded through the bolt on the coil bracket holding it to the strut tower i beleive, make sure that's good. i've had two that sat for awhile, that baffled me for awhile (you can probably dig up the looooong, old threads), they needed the distributor replaced, the crank angle sensor resides in there.

can anyone post a picture of where/how this spring fits? real easy to see. i have a couple EJ25's and it seems none had this spring. a diagram or picture would help, i don't see any obvious holes or clips for where to put the spring.

well they're annoying since they are rather expensive and seems like subaru dropped the ball on mass production by making each model/style different...but those ABS sensors are really easy to replace. don't even have to jack the car up. turn the wheel all the way to one side such that you can access behind the wheel from the front, so turn the wheel all the way towards the side you're working on. sensor comes with a bundle of wires/brackets attached, but it's easy. 4 12mm bolts and you're done without even jacking the car up. super easy.

yes. all older generation subaru's (EA/ER) have the e-brake on the front. this means the piston rides on a threaded spindle inside the caliper bore. the only way possible for the piston to go back in is to be turned in. pressing will not do it, without breaking at some point anyway. and even if you wanted to break them, you would have to press them extremely hard to damage them. i doubt he did that to both sides, he'd realize something was wrong before continuing. you would have to have non-stock calipers if they pressed in. maybe he turned them and you didn't know?

excellent pictures, that helps a ton since i haven't worked on nearly as many SPFI as others. he's got a spare parts car or two so hopefully we can test stuff with my meter and swap if necessary.

follow your owners manual on oil weight, you won't notice any difference between the two. i personally would stick with the 10w-30. you can read more and verify as my knowledge of oils is very limited. but synthetic blends from what i've gathered are pointless. use synthetic, not the blends, they are mostly conventional oil so the benefits aren't there, but the marketing is.

i wouldn't expect this problem to just go away. it usually gets worse before it gets better. a very temporary solution is to just tap the motor casing and knock some of the internal dust and build up off. there's even a hole at the back of the pump (the cap part that comes off, where all the wires bolt too). i imagine you could pull the rubber plug out of it and blowin in that with compressed air. keep your head away, if it works a fair amount of black dust will puff out. have the brushes ever been replaced? if not, then it's probably time. pull the motor apart, clean it and reassemble with new brushes.

did it run okay awhile ago? the TPS is a pain to adjust and there's no spec's to adjust it by. i'd make sure all the tune up stuff is good - particularly the ignition stuff, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. the crank angle sensor is located in the distributor housing, so swapping the distributor replaces the CAS.

excellent, thanks. what does it look like and where is it located?

you can't, unless you have access to very rare, almost non-existent equipment. these are not OBDII systems like your 02 subaru which can easily be plugged in and checked. it wouldn't do you much good anyway, like you said, that it's showing a code is telling you something already. i wouldn't swap the harness, that's a rather annoying job and most likely the "nicer" one isn't as nice as you'd think. address each connector independently. have you actually looked at it yet, sounds like you haven't? check it out and let us know what the TPS connector looks like. the fan issue isn't causing your non-runnign issues...unless the running hot is deteriorating the wires quicker...but the bottom line is the problem is elsewhere.