idosubaru

drive it a lot, those engines loose headgaskets fairly often (got a couple i could show you at my place). look for signs of overheating. actually...look for new headgaskets, it may have them and you can tell just by popping the hood. at that mileage 'id want the timing components checked. not just the belt, but the pullies as well should be inspected. many people will just throw a new belt on an be satisfied, that's not good practice for this engine and an excellent vehicle that could easily go another 100,000 miles. good luck!

never worked on the newer ones, but i can't imagine it not being 1/2", you sure it's loose? did you try putting and extension in there as well?

the rotors are rusted a good deal from sitting, maybe the ton ring/sensor are contaminated from sitting as well? i'll remove the sensor and have a look at that. how do i look at the tone wheel? i've never looked at one or seen one...and knew what it was anyway! i get the general idea, just never poked around at one before. thanks OBW!

i was going to mention replacing the boot like that, but figured you might chime in since you've done it. that's awesome, my reasoning is the same...just different scenarios, rust. in my experience the rear diff bolts have never been rusted, they've always come off very easily. and if the nut doesn't come off the rear diff, it'll just back the stud out of the diff like a bolt. i've removed a lot of rear diffs and never had a bit of trouble. but the hub/strut/trailing arm bolts are horrendous with rust on the ones i've had. they're so bad i wouldn't attempt the job unless i'm at home with my welder, torch, bolt kits, drills, etc. i've had sheared bolts, nuts/heads rusted so bad that a socket won't grab them, rounded off bolts...etc. i guess it just depends how/where they rust? my experience is mostly XT6 stuff, maybe they tend to rust differently for some reason. same with the EJ stuff, i hate dealing with rusted rear suspension stuff, serious PITA, it's a MD thing maybe?

Read the codes on my 98 Legacy GT sedan since the ABS light was on and it acts funny. Code 22 and 24 came up - Front right and front left ABS sensor circuit codes . The car did set for awhile. Any tips, i'm wondering if this isn't really sensor related but dirty something?

i always unbolt the differential. those bolts are never difficult to remove (rusted/corroded) like the trailing arm bolts and no worries with alignment either. the diff is heavy, you'll see once you remove the one in your parts car, so if you hate or have problems moving around heavy stuff this might not be for you. you can leave it connected to the driveshaft, just drop it down to give you plenty of play. have liquid wrench or PB blaster ready, they sometimes don't want to slide off. someone in another thread said heating them with a torch helps getting them off too. any word on when those parts are supposed to get to you?

does the transmission shift fine or seem to lag sometimes too?

Subaru's timing change interval didn't come about from the expected life of the chain only. that they may be more conservative in supplying the market with their first timing chain vehicle and they're working with dealerships all over the world that have never needed to support chain driven motors...is really no surprise from a corporate point of view. i realize subaru's are not trucks...but with enormous engines, towing and strains far above that of a subaru, there are many trucks on the road with 200,000 and 300,000 miles on the original timing chains. they routinely go hundreds of thousands of miles without any need of timing chain and water pump work, makes them very simple to operate eventhough they still have interference engines. i don't know how transferable this concept is to vehicles. but i wonder how conservative they're being with their interval. is the water pump still require timing chain removal to replace, that's really annoying!

it won't be if it's a 4.11 unless them crazy dudes got different options than us US peeps. but i don't think they did in final drives. that should be an early legacy turbo rear diff (don't know if they're called that over there). do you have access to an FSM, the specs would be in there? or check out a legacy board i would think they'd know a good deal about that rear diff.

no. the last subaru headgasket problem was done away with in mid 2002, that was five years ago. subaru (and many other manufacturers) have had many headaches over this, i don't think they'll neglect the headgasket in the future. japanese companies made QC what it is today, that's why american manufacturers are finally playing catch up...thank you richard deming. based on their operational philosophy in this regard it is unlikely they'll throw "any old" head gasket design into production. and in general, manufacturers headgasket design has finally caught up with other performance enhancements. sure anything can happen...but it is unlikely at best.

New2XT's....everything you need is right here. don't click on anything. scroll to the bottom of this screen you're looking at right now. on the bottom left is a list of "Similar Threads", it basically does a search for you. i clicked on one and got excellent information...exactly what you're looking for. i think it was the third one down the list "Dual Range tranny?" check out the search button. i like to click on search, then click on advanced search and click on the button for "search titles only". you would have had what you were looking for in seconds.

turbo GL-10 - 115 hp. non turbo makes 90 hp, about what your old wagon made. that will make it a bit nicer. i wouldn't expect a race car, they aren't all that fast but it should feel sufficiently better than your 86 that you won't be disappointed. on to the best news, i'm almost positive the GL-10 turbo 88 should have the 4EAT transmission. that's the same transmission in the XT6 and it is a great auto trans. it is orders of magnitudes better than the 3AT. your 86 should have had the 3AT transmission in it, those things suck. the 4EAT is very reliable for an auto trans. that's what i drive, if they weren't reliable i wouldn't be using it as my DD.

did you click on the ebay link and read the information? it's difficult to understand, hence the title of this thread pointing to that ebay auction: "want a good laugh?".

define "life expectancy"? you do realize everyone has a different oppinion and decision making process? is this a real question or mental exercise? i say 200,000 is reasonable to expect without much effort.

an EA82 that doesn't leak would be a true find. by this time something is usually loosing some oil. the turbo's are touchy. remember that it's 20 years old. when you have a turbo you have extra things that can fail after that amount of time...turbo gaskets, turbo bearings, oil lines, and turbo coolant lines. these are additional failure points and each one can cause really bad things to happen in an engine. but if it's running now and all is good, you can address all of that on your own and these are in general good engines. they don't hold up well to lots of playing...if you're going to play with the boost and do power mods then i wouldn't plan on the 20 year old headgaskets lasting much longer. keep it stock and keep the coolant and oil sytems in check and chances are good you won't have many problems with the engine if it's in good shape now.

that's definitely not normal. for now, at the very least turn your A/C off before it gets that hot or while climbing. radiator may be partially clogged, they easily get build up in them, i've seen them only a few years old with not many miles on them have lots of white deposits inside. probably wouldn't take much given the heat, pulling hills and running a/c. pull over when it gets above normal and make sure your fans are kicking on as well.

shhh, don't tell me that, it only encourages me! i agree, i wouldn't recommend this kind of stuff to anyone, kind of silly really. but now i'm interested and want to see what happens. i've got it hooked up and am driving 200+ miles tomorrow. see what happens. my electrical tools, extra ECU, extra TCU, extra RWSS....bunch of goodies, are in the trunk just in case.

wonder if he's reading this? i laugh and heck, i read through this thread. but i feel bad for the guy too. he's probably always getting picked on and who knows, he may have issues. injury, trauma, asbergers... if so, then it's really sad because at least he's functioning to some capacity, which is more than some people can say, but he's getting slammed at every turn. dont' get me wrong his intolerance for listening to anyone else and admitting he's wrong definitely gets old and causes confusion.

if it wasn't significant oil, it was probably running off with the antifreeze. did it ever get to the red? the noise could be heat related - pinging or louder than normal HLA's. if it's a hose then no big deal, replace and see. if it's something worse, like $250 in water pump work then you might want to reconsider. if you didn't run it hot too much and kept it from the red the engine should be fine. they are quite resilient engines if you keep them from the red and running out of oil. i'd replace it myself, but i wouldn't being paying someone else to do it so that's easy.

awesome you found some hotdog! the 2.2 is your best bet. i don't know you, your finances, your situation that well, but i think the 2.2 is a much better fit as far as i can tell. there's no need to call the previous owner, look at the gaskets. look under the car or under/behind the power steering and you can see the headgasket protruding from the block. a quick look will tell you if it's original or the replacement. most people don't know enough about cars anyway to get an accurate report. they confuse terms all the time. asking yes and no questions is the best way to get bad answers. "was that replaced?" "oh yeah, same time i had the wheel belts replaced.". hm mm, okay, right. did they replace all 5 wheel belts then or just one..... if your title said "2.5 or 2.2?" you'd probably get more responses from the 2.5 lovers out there. there are people that say 2.5 all the way and that the risk is minimal. and they are nice motors, i like them a lot too. but i like seeing my friends not get hosed more than i like that motor. i've stopped and asked shops before while i was getting parts...they'll have a couple 2.5's HG jobs going on at a time, it's constant business in areas with a lot of subaru's, they are everywhere in WV. and to the guys out there buying blown headgasket 2.5's...like me, trust me, there are way more than there are 2.2's eventhough the 2.2 has been around much longer, i still see gobs of blown 2.5's and still rarely see a blown headgasket 2.2. and the couple that i've see are like 250,000 mile 1990 models with original radiators and such...probably blown due to poor maintenance or overheating. i've yet to see a low mileage, good condition 2.2 with blown headgaskets that i could say was properly taken care of.

positive. i can see it's rusted and warn down and i know it was the right size, i double checked on the one i removed from a spare engine...12mm i think, either way it was definitely right. i was thinking about trying one mm smaller and seeing if i could pound it on...like an 11mm. i have spare engines and removed a good knock sensor just fine. hopefully the code never comes back, seems to be fine now. i'd need some really long, skinny pliers to fit down there and grab it, i don't have any that would work for that. but i could use a set like that.

that's good news matty. if it's sliding back and forth some, maybe you just don't have enough room for it to come off all the way? dropping the diff may give you the extra slack you need to get it off. but...i have always been a little confused. the Off Road guys always talk about how easy it is to remove a rear axle for those running welded rear diffs. in my experience the axles don't just pull off without dropping the rear diff or gaining some "slack" in the axle, so i've wondered how they do that. maybe there's a trick i don't know? i've always had to drop the diff. maybe they have "lifts" or suspension work that allows them more slack to do that.

my legacy sat for awhile before i got around to fixing it. fixed it and it had a knock sensor and O2 sensor code. cleared the code twice and it kept returning. i filled it up with fresh gas, replaced the O2 sensor and the code went away. a used one isn't a bad option. i pulled one off a 80,000 mile motor that looks great, i'll install that if the code ever returns. i was going to install it anyway, but the freaking bolt was too rusty and the socket wouldn't even grab it. just my luck, how does that bolt head rust?

i tapped into the ECU input, but the ironic thing to this is that it looks like the output of the speed switch splits into many parts right at the speedometer cluster to go to the trip meter, cruise control, power steering, ECU..etc. so, i may have just sent input to the ECU. haven't driven it enough to see if the stalling is now gone since it happened so rarely. still looking into getting the input to all of those other items.

dropping the diff may help. depending how high or low the vehicle sets, you'll probably need something under it to hold it up, otherwise it won't go all the way to the ground and there won't be much slack in the axle to get it to move or come off. are you sure they're stuck and it's just not enough room to get it off? the rear axles on the XT6 won't come off without dropping the diff, there's not enough room for them to come off without removing/unbolting something i don't think. the pins come out and the axle cups might move some, but not enough to slide all the way off the diff i don't think.