Tiny Clark

My 96 Legacy doesn't have daytime runnimg lights. but if your 96 does, amybe there is a problem with the control module. As theotherskip said, check the voltage with the bulb connected.

In the days of points, coils, distributers, and mechanical fuel pumps, a car could run for days without charging the battery. I bought a Volvo 164 from a guy, which wouldn't start the third day after I got it. His "mechanic" had put on a new positive battery cable, and it didn't have the wire running from the alternator attached to it!

I had the rubber expanded on mine, causing the problem.

If I took mine to a place to have the oil changed, I would get one of those yellow permanent markers that the junkyards use to mark parts, and write "OIL" right next to the oil drain plug, and "A/T" next to the transmission plug.

USUALLY, if there is a leak in the heater core, and you are using the defroster, it will put an oily film on the windshield.

When I get tailgated, I always use my "If they don't like this speed, they certainly won't like the other one" rule, and slow down, especially if they can't pass at the time. Then I tell them what number driver they are when they do pass! Tiny

I would buy the fact that the valves may not have been adjusted correctly in the first place, before the fact that the valves have become longer or the valve seats have receded. My point is that I just don't see it worth the money to go to a dealer and let them do it if they are not that experienced at it. And if their answer is "We just don't do that very often or recommend it", I wouldn't leave my car in their hands for this job. Tiny

I think you have to pay more attention to what's going on when driving the autobahns. If you're doing the recommended 130KPH, the trucks that are driving 80-100KPH come up awfully fast, so you have to make sure that the Audi A8 that's coming up in the left lane won't run you over. From what I've seen, only the newer cars over here have cruise control, but it's still really hard to set it and forget it like drivers do on the interstates. I rarely, if ever, use mine in the Subie.

The valves won't get tighter than what is set at the factory. You can give a feeler guage to several different people, have them adjust valves, and possibly get several different clearances. Since it's done by feel, one person's slight drag may seem too tight to another's. But, that's why there are tolerences. Valves that are too loose don't overheat. Too bad they just didn't stick with hydraulic tappets.

EuroB-rad, Do you live in Bitburg? I went to High School there, and that's when I learned how to drive, and keep to the right. I spent many times driving from Spangdahlem to Bitburg in the heavy fog!

If it's running OK, why mess with it? If you get a dealer mechanic (who hasn't done a lot of them) to do it, and he/she gets them too tight, the valves will burn, since they won't sit against the valve seats long enough to cool them.

Paris to Hamburg could be done in 4 hours @ 140MPH (560 Miles), but you cannot sustain that speed over here, what with the traffic on two lane autobahns with trucks, road crews, construction zones, speed traps, stau (traffic jams), etc. To me, faster driving appears to be around big cities, where you have 4 or so lanes, and you better stay to the right. One nice thing over here is that most trucks can't drive on the Autobahns on Sundays. Most stupid Americans drive with their cruise controls on, and don't realize you can use the skinny pedal on the right while passing. And that sign on the American freeways "Slower Traffic Keep Right" is a mandatory law, not a frikkin' suggestion. Tiny

Sorry, didn't mean to ruffle your tail feathers or make it sound like you shouldn't be learning. I learned just about eveyhting I know by tearing things apart. But by your original post, it seemed you were knee deep into a rebuild, and that's why I made the comment. That kind of info you should know before hand. But, as my dad used to say, if you meet someone that's never made a mistake, you'll meet someone that hasn't done much. My mistake... Tiny

It's kind of scary that you are working on an engine and don't know what a tolerance number is. I guess I've been around the military too long, and think this is very common knowledge... Tiny

You should be able to pull the starter out and operate it while removed from its mount. The starter gear should pop out pretty hard before the motor starts turnng. Just make sure you have a good hold of it.

If it is happening the way you describe it, sounds like there are teeth missing on your flex plate... Tiny

I make my own out of old wire coat hangers and wine corks. Seems to work just as good as the others I've used... Merry Christmas everybody! I hope you get everything you want & want everything you get. Tiny

You could probably use the wire intended for the automatic power antenna, which used to be a blue wire on most radio decks. I doubt it has changed, but who knows... Tiny

Put some masking tape on the window to make any cleanup from squeeze out easier.

It's a good idea to change your fluid, yes. As was said before in this forum, use a turkey baster to get as much of the old fluid out, then refill.

I bought a hidden hitch for minelast spring, for around a hundred bucks. Easy to install. I did get a lot of looks and stares at the Frankfurt airport, since I checked it in as baggage on my way back to Germany, and just wrapped the sharp edges with paper and tape.

One more note on the crimping. You should be using a good crimper to prevent cutting the stranded wire. Using something like vice grips is not a good idea if the wire is going to be used to its maximum potential. And one last thing on soldering wires to repair them, a CAUTION out of our wiring bible... • Do not use solder to splice broken wires except under emergency conditions and then repair wires with correct solderless splices as soon as possible.

I suggested crimp type connectors because they are better than soldering wires. Don't think that just because the solder turns stranded wire into one solid piece, it will conduct better. Electrons travel on the outside of a conductor. This is why stranded wire is a better conductor than solid wire - more surface area. Repairing wires on USAF airplanes is done with crimp splices, not by soldering the wires, per our tech manuals. I have been repairing avionics systems and wiring on airplanes for almost 30 years, so I think I may have SOME insight into wire repair. But then again, Subies don't fly, at least very far. One of the reasons for using splices and not soldering is that when you tin a wire, there should be a tiny bit of wire left untinned next to the insulation. This allows the stranded wire to flex under vibration, which decreases the chance of breakage over time. We also got away from using solder type connectors, because if there is an overcurrent problem, the wire can get hot enough to melt the lead/tin solder. If the wire gets hot enough to burn the insulation, it will probably get hot enough to at least weaken the solder joint, and yes, they can weaken. There is also the "ease of maintenance" issue. But hey, by all means, if you really want to go to the trouble of dragging all the crap out to solder them, then properly clean them up go right ahead! The major reason for this whole episode, which EdgeFire and OEppegarrd already stated, is that using a bulb that draws more current than the circuit was designed for is not real smart. "What? Solder is not good for high temp? Are you kidding me?" Not sure what this quote was supposed to mean, but no, it's not.

Shouldn't be too difficult, and since you are pulling it, you must know how to turn a wrench and have a basic knowledge of "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey". Whatever needs to be pressed off and on can be done at most machine shops or suspension repair places. Go fo it.

I rarely use the rear wiper due to wind deflector intallation. Also keeps the back door fairly clean.