Cougar

Hopefully you have voltage on the minus side of the coil with the ignition switch on. Have you replaced the pickup inside the disty? If not and the voltage is good then replacing it should get you spark.

The module must be defective from what you say. It sounds like it is working a little bit, but not like it should be.

Thanks for the info Ivans Imports. If that is the case then I have to assume the module is working since the negative side of the coil showed signs of going to ground using the test light, which should make the coil fire. So I have wonder if the coil wire is bad.

Since the negative side of the coil made the test light flash you should have had spark from the coil. Have you tried a different coil wire to see what that does? Clean the ground of the coil bracket.

A weak battery can cause the lights to dim more than they would normally with a good battery installed. It is a good idea to clean the battery connections and the main chassis ground connections to help stop voltage drops in the electrical system. Make sure the fan belt is tight and isn't slipping on the alternator. Costco has some decent batteries for around 70 dollars. You may what to get the charging system checked out when you do get a new battery to check the condition of the alternator output. Also have the AC ripple voltage checked to make sure the diodes are okay.

LOL. Yeah, we have a long winter season here in Anchorage but don't have a huge amount of snow to deal with usually. Ross Dam is located high in the Cascade Mountains and I can't imagine what their average snowfall is during the Winter. It sure is pretty country though. There is plenty of info on the web about it if your interested in checking it out. You probably don't get to see many snow flakes where you are at Olnick.

This site mainly deals with Imprezas but I think the wiring is fairly similar to both models. http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals

It is. The dam and the area it is located in is incredible. Though I don't know how they can get though the winters there.

Okay, I understand now. You are going to have to come up with one from somewhere. The sockets are not provided and the dealer will most likely want to sell you the wire harness as they don't sell individual connectors. You are most likely going to have to hit the salvage yard for that.

Fixing the warning light circuit for the alternator is a simple job to do. Installing a voltmeter to monitor the charging system is a very good thing to do. Equus makes a nice one that just plugs into the cigarette lighter socket for a very reasonable price.

There is only a single plug on the back side of the alternator that should pull out with the wires connected to it. It's really a socket that fits onto the alternator. Be carefull with the main output wire as it is hot to the battery. If you short that to ground things won't be good and a fuse will blow. It is best to remove the battery ground lead before working on that connection. That way nothing bad can happen. After you replace the connections to the alternator then reconnect the battery lead.

Just as a note, the audio system designs commonly used today require each of the four speaker outputs to be seperate pair runs to each speaker since they are a balanced output design. They don't use a connection to common ground or to each other.

Looking at some data for a different model it shows the wire from the gauge is a brown/white wire. The two senders are in series with each other tied together via a blue wire and end with a blk/yel wire from the second sender tieing to ground. Your model might be the same possibly.

If there is a brown/white wire also then the green most likely goes with it for the front right side speaker. On the other hand the green wire may be the radio memory power lead. Here is a picture from another poster. It shows a green or white wire is used for that power connection. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143860-common-grounded-speaker-wires/

I know what you mean. You're not at Ross Dam by chance are you?

Here is a link for info that may help you. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm

Ebay is a good place to find spare remotes at a fair price if you can't find something locally.

You might still be able to get a new pigtail from the dealer or go to a salvage yard and get a used one. If the connectors at both ends are okay I would just repair the wiring myself and call it good.

Well I guess we have things "pinned down" here. You're welcome for the help and if you have more issues let us know. Technicians are standing by.

Going by what you say about the hose pressure I still suspect you may have a headgasket issue and suggest you have the coolant sniffed for exhaust gases. Checking the fuel pressure regulator should be done also as Fairtax4me already suggested. Checking the coolant temperature sensor operation for the ECU may be a good thing to do also.

But by doing that you would defeat the warning light circuit and wouldn't know when you do have a charging problem. It would also effect the other warning lights testing process.

Fairtax4me "I'm still trying to make sense of just how the illumination module works (have been for months), but I don't see how how a voltage drop at the ignition switch would cause the dash illumination lighting to dim, since those lights get power directly from the fuse box." I at first thought that the power for the dash lights did pass through the ignition switch but you are correct, power comes from the main panel, through the taillight relay, and then to the lights. I suppose the relay contacts could be causing a slight change in voltage drop due to a voltage change in the supply voltage to the relay coil. Another possibility pehaps is there may be a change in the ground reference to the illumination control module due to the added loads.

Your statement about the battery warning light needing to be working is absolutely correct. I had to learn this the hard way also many years ago when I was working on a Ford truck. There are a lot of cars that use this design so the warning lights go into the test mode when you turn the ignition on and so you can verify they do work. The "L" or lamp lead as it is called passes current through the battery warning lamp and on to the exciter of the alternator to build up the field of the alternator. If the lamp lead is open for some reason you have no field built up in the alternator and that means, "yous got nut'un", for alternator output. When the alternator starts working as it should then voltage is back fed on that lead and that makes the warning light turn off since there is no ground potential on that lead anymore, at least until something happens to the alternator. Then the light will turn on and you get the warning to check the alternator.

Your description of the U shape fits the diagram shown in the manual. The wire is in pin 2 and pin 1 is the other wire position across from it. Pin 3 is under pin 1 and pin 6 is under pin 2. The black ground lead, pin 6, is under pin 2.

You're welcome for the help and glad you got the correct wire at last. Using the blk wire as pin 6 what pin is this wht/blu wire on? Since it isn't power or ground and doesn't go to the lights it seems it has to tie to the dimmer control by using the process of elimination.