Cougar

What you describe about the connector and wires seems to indicate you do have the correct module though I can't explain the white wire. Here are the pin number and wire colors that my info shows: Pin 1 Blu/grn Pin 2 Blk/wht--return ground through module for lights Pin 3 Grn Pin 4 Blu Pin 5 Vio--PWR Pin 6 Blk--Gnd The other wires not designated are for the dimmer control pot connections. It would be normal for the blk/wht wire to show battery voltage on it if it is not connected to ground if it is the correct wire since the circuit would be open and no current can flow, so all the voltage will be across the open connection of the series circuit. If you want to be safe you could use a test light probe connected to ground and the probe tip tied to that wire. If it is the correct wire hopefully you will see the dash lights light up slightly at least, while the probe is in series with the lights.

My info shows that the same violet wire that supplies power to the lamps also ties to the module. I assume you are working on the correct module. My info doesn't show any white wire going to the illumination control module, but maybe my info isn't for your model year. If you were on the correct wire the lights would have changed. The info shows six wires going to the module.

You would be wise to get on Ebay and purchase a factory service manual for the car. There is no good substitute for a factory manual and it will save you a lot of time when you need to work on things, especially the electrical systems.

If you heard a steady fairly load clicking while trying to start the engine the problem is most likely due to poor battery connections on the battery posts. The first thing you want to do is remove the battery connections and clean the posts and the connections with a battery post cleaning brush. Hopefully that solves the problem. It's one of the most common causes for starting issues there is. Don't over tighten the battery clamps when you put them back on, another common problem. While under the hood make sure the alternator belt is tight and the output lead is in good condition and not showing signs of burning. Check the voltage getting to the battery while the engine is running about 1,500 RPM and the lights are on. You should have at least 13.5 volts getting to the battery.

Check the output voltage of the alternator and see what it is. If the voltage is low there then chances are the alternator is the problem. If the output voltage is good then check the voltage across the battery posts. If that is low then there is either a blown fuse or a bad connection the alternator output lead. If the voltage is good then check the voltage getting to the fuses in the panel under the hood. If they are low then there is a bad connection between the battery and the panel. Check the smaller wire between the battery and the panel for a problem. It may be a good idea to clean the battery connections also at this time.

I assume the car is a 2000 Outback you are asking about. My info shows a blk/wht wire as the return wire for the lights. The fact that the lights didn't change when you grounded the white wire means you are not working on the correct wire. If power is good under load to the lights then forcing a ground on the return side will force the lights on full brightness.

The heating problem and the boil over don't sound good to me. I suggest you have a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. Also check for an intake air manifold vacuum leak.

Replace the bad alternator.

Consider yourself as just dodging a bullet. Never ever, ever, ever, replace a fuse with a normal piece of wire. If a hard short had been in place with that wire installed you would have burned out the wiring leading to that short before you had a chance to think about it..

Just replacing the alternator, and the battery if it is fairly old, should most likely fix you up.

There are six output diodes used to rectify the three phase AC voltage that is generated by the alternator. Normal AC ripple voltage across the battery should be less than .1 volt ACV. It sounds like you have had some bad luck with alternators and this may be an indication something is wrong with the wiring to the alternator. A bad connection to the battery on the voltage regulator "sense" lead could make the regulator think the battery isn't at full charge and make the alternator work harder than it should thus shortening the normal life of the alternator and battery possibly. Hopefully the shops checked for that issue. Checking for a voltage drop across the wire connection while the alternator is working would show up the issue if there is one. It is also wise to replace an older battery at the same time you replace the alternator since they work together and it makes no sense to have a weak battery loading down a new alternator and possibly cause more trouble later on.

A burned out link doesn't always show outward signs of being open, they can fool you if you aren't careful. If they stretch when you pull on the ends it indicates that the middle has melted. Also checking for voltage on each side of the link is good way to confirm it is okay. It's basically a piece of wire, designed to handle a certain amount of current for a duration of time.

Since the alternator supplies the power to keep the battery charged up and electrical items running problems like this are usually always related to the alternator. Sometimes the internal voltage regulator can be an issue when voltage spikes up over the normal range. Bad output diodes can also be a problem and cause excessive AC ripple voltage which can cause strange things to happen, like wipers turning on when they shouldn't be.

You seem to indicate that a fuse is blowing out. Trailer light pigtail wiring is a common place for shorts to occur along with other external wires go to the lights.

Well, maybe it's time to try the module.

I know some of the vehicle years had a white wire for the return also. Hopefully you grounded the correct white wire as the lights should have turned on when you did that, as long as the power side dosen't have a problem.

The purple wire provides fused power to the lamps. There may be an orange wire for the return side of the lights and if so then grounding it should turn on the lights.

In case you aren't aware of it, the resistor pack is on the return side of the circuit. Check to see if power is getting to the motor while the selector switch is set to full speed. If you do see power you should be able to ground the return side of the motor and make it run and verify the motor is okay. It would also mean the relay is okay.

I think it is located in the far left side of the dash area but not positive of that. You might try running power directly to the motor to verify it is okay if you haven't done that already.

Since the car seems to start up okay even in the cold I have to question your current measurement results. There is no way the battery could stay charged up with only .5 amps of charging current. There seems to be a bad connection between the battery and the panel under the hood possibly or perhaps the the ignition switch. Use your voltmeter to check where the drop is occurring. Check the panel under the hood first and if that is okay check the fuse panel in the dash. If that is low suspect the ignition switch or the wiring to it for a problem. Think in logical steps. As far as grounds go, you can't just look at them and presume they are okay. They need to be verified to be working okay by looking for a voltage drop using a known good reference ground point to compare with.

Hopefully just replacing the module will fix you up and not cost you much.

The high voltage from the coil will seek a path to ground through the least resistive path it can find. Normally that is through all the high tension wiring, through the air gap of the plug, and to ground that is provided through the plug body. The trouble could be due to a cracked coil as others have already stated or the main coil wire to the disty may be open. Once arcing has occurred through something it usually forms a path through it and that device will usually need to be replaced because the insulation has been broken down by the arcing.

I'm not sure of the different years but the factory info I am working with is for the model year 1988. You should be able to find those wire colors going to the cluster and gauge. I assume the wire colors are the same for your model year but I can't say that for sure.

Good to hear you got it fixed without much trouble. You're welcome for the help.

There should be a couple of round 12 pin connectors near the back of the cluster. Both of the wires I mentioned go through one of them.