Cougar

I would check the CEL bulb out and see if it is bad. If it is ok then check for voltage between the bulb contact and ground. If you have voltage there, then the ECU has a problem as I stated in my last post.

If the firing pulses for the ignition are not seen by the ECU it will turn off the pump. You should be able to listen for the pump by turning the key to the run position. You should hear it turn on for a short time. You may have to crank the engine first and switch it to off, then turn it to run, if the system is pressurized. The ECU may control the return lead to the battery for the pump. My '88 turbo was done that way.

It does sound like you are going to need a new starter. You may also need a new ignition switch if that is causing the starter to stay turned on while the engine is running. Hopefully the bendix is sticking on the starter and a new one will fix that problem also. I'm not sure if your '96 starter will work in the '95.

If the fuel filters haven't been replaced then I would do that and if that doesn't work then replace the pump. You have the classic symtom of a bad pump.

Very good thought by Sea#3. I hadn't thought of that before and that may be just what is happening. If that isn't the case, then I would also suspect a bad ground and you could prove it by making a ground jumper. Tie one end to the battery ground and the other end to the suspected bad area. If things clear up then you need to find where the ground break is for that area.

I would try calling your insurance company and see what they have to offer you for an extended warranty plan. The Subaru Gold plan price seems pretty fair if things are on the level. You would have to ask them about the details of starting the plan with a used vehicle. As far as scheduled service, I would keep taking the vehicle in for the service at place that is recognized by Subaru and the techs are factory trained so there is no question about the service done. Keep all the records and receipts, especially for the oil changes.

If the CEL light is not working when you turn the key to the 'on' position, and the bulb is ok, then the trouble may be in the ECU. I have had to replace an IC in the ECU that controls the ground to the bulb in the past and have talked with another person that did the same thing. It was a lot cheaper than getting another ECU. If the LED in the ECU is not working, try connecting the green wires again and see if it works then with the key on. To Royboy159: Your welcome for the help on the injector resistance. Hope you stick around the site, you have some good knowledge that could help some folks here.

After reading the posts on this I don't feel you were led down the wrong path LuckyPistol. The items that were suggested to be replaced are normal for an engine of that age. I also don't think the shop did you any real injustice either unless they were trying to cover up something they did wrong while working on the engine. For the most part they replaced parts that should be replaced while working in the area. As far as advice from this board is concerned, I think Chef Tim stated things well. I will also add that most of the members here will give advice that is as good or better than some pros in the repair business. Some members will also go on location and help others with the repairs, and all this is for FREE. We do this for the satisfaction of trying to help someone out. So now, as Forrest said, "that's all I've got to say about that".

The crackling is most likely coming from the speaker cone(s) and not the amp. If you get some new speakers one thing that will make an improvement is to get some tweeters that mount to the pillars.

I agree that you should cancel the plan. You should be able to get a lot better deal from your insurance company if you want to get another one. That's a really nice Soob you started with. Hope you enjoy it for a long time.

Another thing to check is the alternator warning light. Make sure it turns on when you turn the key from off to run without starting the car. If the light doesn't turn on check the bulb and see if is burned out. Without the bulb filament being intact, you will have no exciter voltage to the alternator.

I would try to find out why there is no vacuum first. There must be a blockage somewhere it seems to me.

The 570k ohm reading is about what a normal one will read from what I have seen in the past. Not sure why the new one reads so much more. The real test for these is the output signal. You can replace the sensor with a 560k resistor and fool the ECU into thinking things are normal. I did this once while waiting for a replacement sensor to keep the engine in the normal running mode.

I believe the cruise disengage switch is separate from the brake switch but mounted near the pedal. The adjustment is a common trouble for this so I would check that first.

I agree with the shop. From your description it sounds like the vehicle speed sensor is the problem. You may have a bad knock sensor also as they can fail. Hopefully that will be all you need to get going again.

To Vanislru: If you have a 1/4 amp draw on the battery while parked that is too much. There should be no more than 80 milliamps draw. You will have to start pulling fuses to find the source of the problem. I would start another thread on this problem also.

Before trouble shooting the fuel system make sure that the ignition system is working. If it isn't, the ECU will shut down the fuel pump.

I would guess you did damage a fusible link. From the sounds of it, the problem may be a bad connection somewhere also. I would look for the problem using a voltmeter. You should be able to find where the voltage drops with that. I would make sure the grounding is ok also to the dash.

Thanks for the fedback on this Garner. Glad you got things going. It would be interesting to know how this was working before you wired the light in. I suppose there may have be a residule magnetic field to allow the exciter to get going.

You most likely blew out some of the diodes after the jump was made. The alternators tend to be weak in Subarus and are prone to problems like this. Jumping others cars can be riskey to the charging system.

Make sure the warning light turns on when you turn the key to the on run position. You could also measure the voltage on all he leads to the alternator while the engine is running. If all the leads measure close to the battery voltage then your alternator is bad. You need a charged battery to do this. Be sure to disconnect the battery before working on the alternator and removing the leads. The main lead is always hot.

Thanks for the feedback Bruce. Glad you got it fixed. That was a good problem you had there. I'm not sure who is more happy about this. You, getting it fixed, or me, not leading you down the wrong path replacing good parts for nothing. From all the testing it seemed that had to be the problem. I think we all learned something on this one. Thanks again to Josh for the prints and support.

Hopefully things will be fine for some time now that you have taken care of the little issues that come up with owning a slightly used car. I wish I had a car that nice when I was that age. Things are different now.

You could make your own load tester by using something like a brake light. This will cause enough current draw to check for a bad connection problem.

It could depend on which side had the bad connection. If the bad connection was on the protected side, or load, then the voltage would show fine through the fuse test points but the load would be dead. Also, the tester would not be a significant load so even if the problem was on the battery side and the load not applied to the circuit it may look fine with the tester.