Cougar

Russ, I have been through this before with another poster a while back. Was the fuse for the horn number 5? I think the same fuse supplies power to the clock also.

Check out Newark Electronics, they may have what you need. Here is a link to one of there items that may fit your needs. http://www.spctechnology.com/prodinfo/specs/TA-259.pdf Another thing you could do is replace the bulb with an LED and resistor. You will never have to replace it again under normal conditions.

The power wires to the pump may be under the rear seat on passenger side. Be sure to measure the voltage across the leads of the pump and not from one lead to ground. The pump may be on the underside of the car behind the rear passengers seat area. You stated 'no power-replace pump', but I think you really meant 'have power'. Besides the pump being the problem there other items to check if you have no power too it, like the pump relay and the ECU. You should also connect the green test wires together to see if that will activate the pump.

If they look the same then they most likely are. Make sure they have the same amount of cooling passages.

I think Peter was implying 'cooling system' when he stated C.S. . Sorry to hear you got hammered with the head gasket issue right off the bat. I can understand you being leary about future problems now. Hopefully you will get many trouble free miles of driving now.

The problem may not be with the switch. It could be the neutral safety switch causing this also. You may want to set up some test lights at various possible fault locations to try and trap the location of the problem.

Glad things worked out for you both. In case the yearning for another Soob gets to you, don't forget they have automatics also. Check in when you can, hate to lose track of good forum members.

If there is a wire harness near the area of the sensor the other end is probably broken off in there and you will have to dig it out and splice them together.

I would say it will last a long time though they can fail. Are you having trouble with that also? Did you get the problem with the green connectors having to be connected to keep the car running going figured out?

Have you checked that spark is getting to the plugs? The pump may not run if the system does not see ignition pulses.

It sounded like the amplifier was the culprit. Glad you got it going. Thanks for the feedback update.

We don't know what the automobile repair knowledge of most of the posters is here but now we know what yours is. You didn't state in your previous posts what part of the coil you checked so we need to know exactly how things were tested in order to find the answer to the problem on this. We are not trying to test your knowledge when we ask questions. Since there is 12v at the minus side of the coil and no signal pulsing there while cranking the engine then you know that the pickup loop is not working for some reason. If the wire between the distributor and pickup in the distributor is ok then perhaps if you have the style of ignition system that uses the transistor switch in the pickup loop circuit it may have been damaged when things shorted. Does your system use that?

Have you checked for power through the coil, on the minus side? You should see near 12v there also if the coil is ok.

You may be able to get another 2 to 3 years of service with this car if you do the repairs. Something also may happen to it that will kill it. It's hard to say, but I think the chances are it will be ok. By fixing it, and not buying another car that you may have to make payments on, that money could be used for other things may need the money for. Especially with new addition to the family coming. There will be more expenses.

Welcome to the Soob family. Drive on.

Your welcome for the help. Hope it lasts you a long while.

That panel is supposed to pop out also, just like the first one. If you don't see any screws, then I would try pulling it from the bottom and see if it will budge. The service manual didn't have a lot there for this. It just showed a couple drawings and a short proceedure that I basically told you.

Along with the other suggestions that must be looked at I would first check to see if there is voltage getting to the coil by using a test light. If there is voltage getting to the positive side of the coil then place the test probe on the negative side of the coil and see if the light is on there also, as it should be. If the light is not on then you may have an open coil. If the light is on then try starting the engine with the probe still connected to the negative side. As the engine cranks the light of the probe should pulse. If it doesn't then you need to check the pickup in the distributor. As suggested earlier, you should check to see that the rotor is turning with the distributor cap off and cranking the engine. The timing belt may have broken on the side that turns it.

That is a good price. Parts would cost more than that. Hope it works out ok.

I would first check for spark while this is happening.

Since the area in the back seems to be effected I would check the wiring in the back for a break. Maybe near the hinge area. It would be good to have a test light to check for voltage if you do this.

Sorry I can't help you with this. In over 38 years of driving and filling vehicles with gas, I have never done that or needed to.

I would try calling some good auto electric repair places in your area. They should be able to sell you a rebuilt with no problem. Trying to repair yours may not be worth the time and money it takes to do it. You should get a lifetime warranty with a Bosch rebuilt unit.

The starting problem may be due to dirty solenoid contacts. Also could be loose fusible link contacts.

If there is a sensor problem, the ECU should catch it and set a code in memory.