Cougar

The brake lights do pull a fair amount of current but not as much as the other things you mention. With all the things going you mention, there will be a fair load to the system. From the symtoms you describe it sounds like the battery may not be fully charged. I recommend you check the alternator output connection and the battery connections for a bad or dirty connection. If the battery connections haven't been cleaned with a battery brush you should do that. Make sure that the alternator output stud is tight and the connector is not burned. If you work on the alternator remember that the stud is always hot. Don't ground the connection unless the battery is disconnected.

Just a guess but, there may be a system change between those model years and the system may not program the same way or use the same remote. Do you have the owners manual to refer to?

I agree with Josh. The alternator is most likely the culprit.

I think there are supposed to be coils in the back but I can't say for sure. The lights are replaceable in the switches.

The filter should stay full I believe. This problem may very well be due to a backflow problem. I would get a service manual for your car to show you more details about it. The sound you hear may be something for the carb. I would try to find the actual device that is making the clicking. You should be able to locate it fairly easily.

Since you state that windows are fogging up and if you smell something like coolant then it sounds like there is a leak in the heater core I'm sorry to say. You will have to replace it probably. Not an easy job. You may want to have a pro look things over. Hopefully you don't have a head gasket leak also.

You should be fine. Most likely some of the diodes have gone out in the alternator. This won't kill things but it will not charge up the battery as fast as it could normally.

From all I've heard also, the plugs to stick with for Soobs is NGK. Period.

Scoobdude has a good point. There may be a check valve that is sticking while temperatures are cold and letting the gas drain back after setting awhile. I know the injected models have the valve but I don't know if that is the case for carb models.

The digital button types can have different problems, but they won't distort the audio like an analog pot can. Since the audio signal is passed through the pot connection, a dirty pot will make that noise as the wiper of the pot passes over the dirty connection. If the pot has an opening to the contacts, using a spray contact cleaner will usually clear that problem up or replace the pot. If you really don't want to replace the radio I would try that.

Oops! Thanks for the notice on that Skip and keeping me straight. I haven't worked on the newer models yet, so I am unaware of changes that were made. I guess I better stick with info I know is correct before I pass out advice.

I think the AWD system may use the ABS sensors to detect wheel slippage. If a front wheel is spinning too fast I think it changes the amount of drive to the rear.

If the crackle is heard while adjusting the volume control then yes, it is a dirty pot. If it is heard while no adjustments are being made then it is the speaker at fault. Since you state that it does it more when cold then I would say the speaker is at fault. Josh, in post #5 stated that they are all 6.5" speakers. You may need some shallow depth ones for the front speakers. I would measure them before buying anything or check with Crutchfield.com. They will know what you need.

The reason the lights do that is because they are wired into the alternator regulator or field circuit. I can't remember which one it is for sure.

It most likely is a solenoid. It may have to deal with the choke adjustment but I'm not sure. It's just a guess on my part.

So.... Do I have this straight? The car died on the road while the green connectors and the white connectors were tied together. If I remember correctly, the injector was not getting voltage to it. Is that right? If so, then whatever killed the engine is still a problem, with the connectors tied together at least.

What makes you think the thermostat is bad? If you do need a new one just draining the radiator about a third will be enough.

I would first verify that the ignition is working when this happens again by placing a spare plug in one of the wires and setting the plug on a ground point of the engine. Then look for spark while cranking the engine. If spark really is ok then I guess the flooding is the issue. It may be the injector is leaking if you have one. If you have a carburator then the float may be bad and causing this.

The crackle you hear in the speaker I think is just the cone rubbing most likely. I don't think you have a short in the speaker causing this. This problem shouldn't cause any damage to the amp but it can be hard to listen to.

I would check to see if there is vacuum to the vent control system and if the vent door is working. There may be a disconnection somewhere that happened during the repair service.

Hats off to Sea#3, great call. You can learn something new here almost everyday. Thanks for the feedback on this Frink.

Here is a link to one of the many, many, sites that deal with Subaru aircraft engines. I would have no problem putting one of these engines in a plane I flew. Check out the video of Tom Moore's Subaru RV7A. http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/

Very well stated Subaru3 and Qman.

To Roy: You have a very good recollection. Al is the one that also worked on the CEL problem. As far as I know, a problem with the CEL circuit will not cause a problem with the LED of the ECU but I can't really confirm that. They are seperate circuits I believe. It may be a good science project to remove the CEL bulb and see if anything happens to the LED when that is done.

Here is a link to a site that gives some info for the Imprezza. I would suspect yours may be similar to it. http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalSubaruImprezza.htm