Cougar

Your welcome for the help. Let me state this again because it is important. The voltage you measure on the large wire of the alternator lead is normal and is not a problem. This wire is the alternator output lead that is tied to the positive battery post and the way it is designed to be. You will be wasting time looking for a problem there. Do not ground this lead with the battery connected or you will blow the fusible link. If the devices you talk about don't have a problem with the output lead disconnected from the alternator I really suggest you try another alternator to see if that will clear things up. Unless I missed something, the problem occured after you connected the new alternator up. I think the reverse blocking diode in the alternator is bad and this will allow voltage to backfeed into the alternator. From your first post: This is why I think the alternator is to blame. Things are normal with the alternator disconnected.

Garner, I assume the charging system was working, as it is, at some point in time. If you don't have the warning light in the circuit you may not need it, but it would be good to know when there is trouble with the system so you should get it connected. The tests you did while the connector was removed from the alternator don't really help diagnosis the problem that much. Check the voltages with everything connected as it should be. If either of the two smaller wires on the alternator are not close to the battery voltage then you need to check for a problem on the wire(s) that read low. If the volt readings are close to the battery voltage and the alternator output voltage isn't at least 12.7 volts with the headlights and blower on high and engine running at 2k rpm, then replace the alternator.

Garner, The large wire that is held on by a nut is the alternator's output wire. Not the field wire. This wire has to handle the large amount of current needed to supply the battery. It is tied to the positive battery connection and is always hot unless the battery is disconnected. Never get a ground connection near this lead. The field wire supplies voltage from the battery to excite the field windings which builds up a magnetic field that the rotor windings pass through and generate the power. The three phase AC voltage is rectified through the diodes and regulated to charge the battery. I think it is the light white color wire but not sure. You are correct about the warning light. A lot of systems use this light in the field circuit. If the light is out, or has a bad connection in the path then the field will not work and and there is no output from the alternator. A good check for proper operation is when you turn the key to the 'run' position and check the warning lights. If the light turns on then things are working ok in the circuit because current is flowing and turning the light on. The other small wire is for the regulator circuit. Please check the voltages on these wires as I stated in my last post and let me know what the readings are. They all should be close to the battery voltage with the engine running.

Sounds like we have a good one here. After reading the posts here are my thoughts on this. First, the voltage you saw on the main alternator output lead with everything off, is normal. That lead ties to the positive battery post and it is the line that supplies all the current to charge the battery, which is why it is so large. There is a fusible link in the circuit also if I remember correctly. I assume that the problem occurs when you tie the alternator's main output lead to the main battery wire, is that correct? If so, you may have an internal problem with the diode in the alternator that blocks voltage from backfeeding into the alternator. I would try another alternator since the problem occured after the new one was installed.

Coolant in the exhaust could cause the O2 sensor to send out a code.

Thanks for the great pictures. This is what the cars were built for.

The heater core could be plugging up. You could try back flushing it or use a cleaner of some sort in the coolant to see if that helps. I assume the coolant level is ok. One other possibility is a head gasket leak may be blocking the coolant.

The large white one is the alternator output lead. The field lead is the red one I think and the light white is for the warning light. Measure the voltages on the output lead, the red one, and the light white wires as I suggested in the last post. They all should measure close to the battery voltage with the engine running.

The voltage readings you took while the engine was running seem low. You should see between 12.7 and 14.8 volts with the RPM's around 2000. There may be a problem with the connection between the battery and the alternator or the field connection. Also check the battery connections. It wouldn't hurt to clean them even if they look ok. If that has already been done then fine. Take a voltage measurement between engine ground and the alternator output lead. Also measure the voltage of field wire connection on the alternator. Have the engine running around 2,000 rpm when you do this. Also have the headlights on high along with the blower motor set to high to make a decent load to the alternator. Let us know what you read for voltage. Edit: Going by the readings you took after starting the car on Monday evening it does seem the alternator is not producing a sufficient charge. The battery voltage should have gone up after you started it but instead it dropped. Checking those points I mentioned will tell the story.

If you really can't afford a 2003 now and don't have to have a newer car right away I would consider saving a little longer for one. I also like the newer models better and you may be happier with it if you wait. If you can't wait you might consider a small loan to make up the difference. The rates aren't too bad right now.

One other thing it may be, if I dare say, is bad head gaskets.

You could try looking at the engine at night while this problem is happening. Have someone crank the engine and see if you can spot any arcs from the ignition to ground indicating a weak point in the insulation. You may also want to check the spark as it may not be firing like it should. If you have a spare plug you could use it instead of removing one in place already. Another thing that may be going on is that the problem is being caused by a bad connection to one of the engine sensors, like the CAS, so it would be good to check them also.

Good post Richard. I remember seeing before now that I look at it again.

As someone once said, "I feel your pain ". Sorry about the sad news. You could cut your losses now and move on to a newer Forrester. They made improvements to the newer models that you may like. If you don't want to spend more money on a later model and really want to keep what you have then I would recommend you purchase an engine from CCR instead of buying a used engine you know nothing about or higher priced new one from Subaru. You will get a very good warranty and a rebuilt engine from one of the best engine rebuilders in the business. Here is a link to their web site: http://www.ccrengines.com/ The cost of doing this will be fairly high but you will have a new engine in the car with a warranty. If you do go with the engine it may be worth getting a new radiator also at the same time.

You might try contacting Jamie at allsubaru.com and see what they want for a stock unit.

If you can afford a 2003 or newer I would go that route. They kept making improvements on them. I didn't really care for the models before '04 but the lastest ones are better looking I think.

Your welcome for the help. Here is a link to a site that you could try emailing to. The guy knows his stuff and he may be able to help you with this. http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/index.htm

Well, hats off to Skip again for his resourcefulness. This diagram looked so familiar I had to check it compared to my '88 manual. They are exactaly the same. I thought there may be some differences with a '94 model but I guess not. Since there is no power to the lights now you need to check a couple of things. Hopefully you have a test light at least to check for voltage. First is fuse #6 for the lighting. If that is ok but you don't have voltage getting to it then check the red fusible link. This is most likely in a box that is mounted to the coolant reservoir near the battery. Let us know what you find out.

You poor soul. You don't want to know how much one those valves costs new. I think that is for the EGR valve or the purge canister. If you can find one of these at a salvage yard you should be able to get one pretty cheap. I have also heard of getting one of these from other vehicles but I can't tell you which ones use them. Some of the board members may have some on hand also that they could send you. After I broke mine while doing some work in that area I never came near it again after I bought a new one. It cost me about $115 dollars back in '99.

Along with the ignition parts I would also do a compression check to see how things are with the cylinders. There may be an intake manifold leak also.

Your welcome for the help. Armed with a test light and a wiring print you should have no trouble finding out what is going on with this. Keep us posted on the progress.

I would suspect a dirty switch is causing this to happen. The drivers door would be most suspect if you don't have a visual display for the doors in the dash. I have had to watch the rear hatch on my Outback. Sometimes it will be closed but the switch will not be set right and light the warning light on the dash. Drained the battery a couple of times this way.

If the level is too high to begin with then it will be high when it is hot. To check for headgasket problems I would have a block done. It is not very expensive to do.

You may have an intake manifold leak.

Did you check the fuses? I would check your library for a manual you could make a copy from.