Cougar

The problem with the alternators may have been due to the poor connection to the battery. This would cause the alternator to work harder. A good test to do while there is a good load on the battery and the engine running aound 2,000 rpm is to check the voltage drop between the alternator output and the positive battery post. If things are good, you should see less than 0.15 volts drop across the wire. You can also check the ground wiring the same way.

Since you are still under warranty probably youmay want to let the dealer look at this. You should have more range than that I would think. You may have a bad transmitter and replacing the battery would be a good first step to see if that is bad. Do you have another fob you can compare the working range with?

Check the voltage at the battery with a voltmeter and see if that reads the same as your gauge does. There may be a bad ground wire connection, connection at the battery, bad fusible link connection, or a problem with the main accessory power wire from the battery causing this. To prove a bad ground wire connection you can place a long jumper lead from the battery ground to suspected areas. If things improve then you know the area you need to look into. You can also do that with the positive side but you should place a fuse in the line in case you touch someplace you shouldn't. I would think that the blower motor wouldn't require more than 10 amps to run so using a 15 amp fuse would be good. I would try to find out where the problem is with the original wire.

You don't state what vehicle you have and what switch caused this to happen. Have you checked the fusible links to see if one of them is blown? It sounds like one of them has been damaged by this. I would assume you have a DVM meter to check the wiring with and know how to check for shorts and clear them.

This may be due to a sticky or leaky valve in the transmission. You could try a transmission additive to see if that would help solve this problem. My 1988 Leone did this same thing when I first started it up in the morning but only for a few seconds. I never bothered to look into the problem and just waited for it to respond.

I would run a ground jumper to areas that you suspect may have a bad ground to see if that helps. For ECM help here is a link you could try http://www.python-injection.com/nf/html/prodtoc.htmThey may have what you need.

Interesting info Northwet. Thanks for the input.

Those sound like good numbers to me. Maybe you will get another 200k on this engine.

This sounds like a project out of the Lockheed "Skunk Works". The SR-71 was flat black also I believe. It still holds some of the fastest speed records. Perhaps you are using titanium skin also. Welcome to the board Mike. Keep your speed below mach 2.

From your description it sounds like the test will be positive. You may be able to use some sort of sealer to stop this until you can fix it the right way. I only recommend this since you can't do the correct repair now, if that really is what is wrong.

Thanks for the update Sandman. With that much pressure you won't have to worry about low pressure anymore but maybe too much pressure.

Along with the other suggestions I would suggest placing a test light on the plus side of the coil, turn the key to the on position and see if you have voltage getting to that point. If so, then check the coil minus side, you should have voltage there also. If you don't have voltage on the minus side then remove the wires from that connection and recheck for voltage. If you still have no voltage then the coil is open and will need to be replaced. If the coil is ok there may be a problem with the pickup in the distributor. Also make sure the coil body ground connection is ok. You can prove the coil operation by placing a lead on the minus side of the coil. With the ignition on, quickly tap and remove the other end of the jumper to ground (keep your fingers insulated from the wire while doing this to avoid a shock). If the coil is ok you will get spark to the plugs. This will mean there is a pick up problem. Some cars use a transistor mounted on the distributor to do the switching I believe.

Since you have the pump out I would think about replacing it with a new one. Then you will know that it won't be a problem for a long time.

As Fraq mentioned, the small wire going to the starter is supposed to supply voltage to the solenoid coil only while the key is turned to the start position. This will turn the solenoid on and that will switch power to the starter motor to turn the bendix gear which turns the ring gear on the flywheel. If you don't have voltage there then you need to look at the ignition switch area which supplies the voltage to the starter solenoid. There may be a starter inhibitor switch in line with this connection that is causing this problem also. I would invest in the factory service manuals that cover the wiring and the engine areas at least for your car. They will cost you some money but it sounds like you may have puchased a starter already that really wasn't the problem. Manuals can really save you money in the long run I believe. If you do decide on a factory manual I recommend you get in touch with Subiegal (Jamie) at http://www.allsubaru.com/catalog.html to get them from. She will give a good deal over the full retail prices on these.

This may be caused by the alarm system needing to be reset. This can happen when the battery power is removed. I would try resetting the system after power is restored.

I would get a test light and check the voltage at the connection from the ignition switch to the starter when this happens again. You may have an intermitant problem with the ignition lead.

I'm not sure where they are on the Legacy but I would look for a small box near the battery area. On my Loyale the box was mounted on the coolant reservoir.

Glad you got it solved Torxxx. Thanks for the update and the explanation.

I think there are small bulbs in the buttons that burn out rather quickly. Some folks have put LED's in place of the bulbs. Here is a link you can use to read up on this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&highlight=climate+control+backlight

Welcome to the forum Pollyavis, hope you like it here as there are a lot of good helpful folks posting on the site. I have to wonder why you are changing the fuel filter on such a new vehicle. Did some bad gas get put in the tank? As with any new vehicle it takes some time to get familiar with it. You may want to think about getting a factory service manual if you are the types that like to do it yourself. You have a good while left on your warranty though so you don't need to get something right away. I like to get them myself to answer any questions I have about the car and it helps to see how things are designed. I think you can purchase a set of connectors and build your own harness. If the trailor is already wired you will have to match the connector on it. I would check out a shop that specializes in trailor hitches and see what they have to match your vehicle. Since this is a new vehicle you may want to ask the dealership if there any warranty issues to think about before doing this. Enjoy the new Soobs.

Since this is a new car I would let the dealer look at this problem. One of the benefits of owning a new car is you can let them take care of most issues under warranty.

Here is a link that may help you with the trouble codes. I agree that the alternator may cause this kind of thing but the trouble codes may be telling you something else is going on. I would make note of the old codes and then clear the ECU to see if more codes come back. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Have you checked the fusible links for a problem or loose connection?

I agree, this sounds like a bad ground issue. To prove it you could run a jumper lead from the battery ground to the ground area of the fuel tank. Check any ground straps for bad connections.

This may mean trouble with the ECU but I'm not sure. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes to clear the ECU? I would power fail the ECU and then drive it again to see what happens. If it comes back then I would guess something is wrong with the ECU and it is trying to warn you about something with it.