Cougar

I think the fuel pump works off a fuse that is marked differently. It may be the ignition fuse. Did you chech to see if there is a fuse position number in the manual? My guess is that a wire was knocked loose while reaching around in the engine.

If you don't have a coolant temperature gauge already I think I would prefer that over a vacuum gauge. Knowing the coolant temperature is much more important than vacuum to prevent damage. If you already have that then tieing the vacuum line to a port near the throttle should work well.

If the crank sensor has a problem I don't think you will get get any spark as the ignition system will not function if I remember correctly. I would check the wiring to the sensor for a problem.

Since an ammeter has to be installed in series with the supply wiring to measure the total current in the circuit it is harder to install. You can use a shunt to handle the high current but this is still hrader to do and more expensive. I would install a voltmeter with the connection to it tied to the accessories fuse. A voltmeter will show you as much or more on the state of the charging circuit. You will be able to see how the voltage changes between idle and normal running speeds and what the voltage of the battery is while the engine is off if you want. Whenever the voltage starts going below 12 volts then you need to look for trouble. Normal running voltages will be between 12.5 and 14.8 volts most of the time.

A bad ground connection sounds like a very probable explaination for this kind of thing. Especially if turning on the blower or lights cause more problems.

To Mattocs: Did the CEL light also come on when this happened? Just wondering how the two symtoms are related. Also, it is my understanding that overfilling the tank may cause damage to the charcoal filter canister as gas liquids can cantamiate the filter that is meant to handle just vapors.

Hopefully the misfire was just due to the oil on the plug. If cleaning up the plug and wire doesn't help you may want to try new plugs. I would recommend NGK's if you do change them. You can also have a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. It is a inexpensive test to do and you will know if it really is a problem or not. If this happens again and you can pull over to a safe area, you could try looking for spark jumping to ground from a bad spot in the ignition. There are other things that could cause this problem like the MAF sensor or TPS but hopefully you won't have to go there.

Since the two problems seem to be linked together I am wondering if there may be a power problem of some sort to the fuel gauge and to something else that is being monitored by the ECU. As far as I know, a problem with the senders will not cause a code to be set in the ECU.

For purchasing parts you can get some fair online deals at www.allsubaru.com . For your audio needs you may be able to find what you need at www.crutchfield.com .

You may be able to get a fairly low mileage '01 or '02 in your price range. You will need to shop around to find a deal. Here is a link to help you out. http://www.cars.com/go/search/fs_search_results.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&sortorder=descending&sortfield=PRICE+descending&criteria=K-%7CE-%7CM-_45_%7CB-12000%7CA-10000%7CD-_1306_%7CN-N%7CR-10000%7CI-1%7CP-PRICE+descending%7CQ-descending%7CZ-98125&aff=national&searchType=21&pageNumber=0&numResultsPerPage=50&largeNumResultsPerPage=0&certifiedOnly=false I am not aware of manual clutches wearing out prematurely on the Forester but all manual clutches wear out after time.

I would see if you can find a parts store that will read the codes again for you. If the O2 code is still there and the shop did the work on replacing the O2 sensor then they should put in another sensor for you for just cost of the part. If they can't tell a bad sensor from a good one then it seems they are not a place to go back to for service. With your charging problems it would be convenient also if a parts store could do a check on the charging system. You may have a weak alternator or bad connection to the battery. If the battery is over 5 years old you are due for a new one anyways. It is a good idea to change the battery and alternator together. Then you know things should be fine for some time.

I think that is a seperate control for the dimmer. You are looking for the headlight switch I believe.

This may not be relevant but have you checked for any blown fuses? Also did you say the cam sensor was the same as the crank sensor? If they are, maybe you should try replacing the crank sensor again as you may have damaged it by tieing the lead to the shield connection.

Keep us posted Mikem. Thanks for the update.

I hope he tested the intake manifold gasket for a leak before throwing parts at it.

Enjoy the new ride.

I take it that all cylinders are now firing at least.

Since replacing the ECU didn't help get things working again then it may be good to check the signal going to the fuel injector(s). It sounds like the input signals are ok. Check the output signals. Also, have you checked for any codes that may have been stored?

I am having a little trouble understanding what you are saying but from what I think you are saying it sounds like you may have a damaged ECU now. Do you have the original unit still to replace it with?

You could start by looking at the ignition area first. Make sure all the plug wires are snug. Look for other loose connections.

If the dash lights are really on when the light switch is off then I agree with Subaskeet about the switch. If the dash lights just don't turn on with the lights then you may have a grounding problem with the dash lights. To check that you can connect a jumper lead to the battery ground and connect the other end to a good ground spot in the dash area. You may have a bad dimmer switch or power connection to it also.

Subaskeet has some good advice that I concure with. I particularly suspect a intake manifold leak on this since it somewhat clears up when warm. I had a leak in my car so bad you could hear the leak without the aid of a hose. Also, if you don't have some NGK plugs installed you might try those.

Have a block check done and you will know the story then. It is not expensive to do. You may have a intake manifold leak causing this also. Make sure the coolant doesn't get low. Check your fuel filters as they could cause this kind of thing.

My guess is that it will cover most things for you ok but I san't say for sure. Keep an eye out on Ebay for factory manuals, you may find a good deal on one there.

Well you want opinions so I guess I will give you my thoughts. Looking at the plus side of the car, you have new brakes and tires which would cost you around $800 if you had to purchase these. The engine has a fair amount of miles on it for the age, maybe a little over the average. If the engine has never been worked on you may have one that will not have the gasket problem as others have. They all don't have the problem. Even if it does happen, you have a car that is in good clean shape and that means a lot in my opinion. It will be worth repairing if it does need service later on. You will still have a nice vehicle at a reasonable price and if the engine is totally gone through you won't have to worry about it for some time though other things can happen. The seller has obviously taken care of the vehicle and deserves some extra money for it so giving him $5,100 seems fair. I say go for the deal and you'll be down the road in your new car.