Cougar

Some of the warning lights are in the alternator exciter circuit. This is a symptom of a failing alternator (output diodes) as was mentioned. Replacing the alternator should correct things.

You stated that the key is 'on' but is the engine running? If you just turn the key to the 'on' position the warning lights turn on as a test so you know that they are good and working. If the engine is running then follow Rouneye's post. The fluctuations you see with the the voltmeter is caused by the voltage drop in the wiring between the battery and the voltmeter as current is supplied to the signal system. This drop should not be much more than about 0.5 volts as a guess. As the current flows through the supply wires to the load, a small amount of voltage is dropped across the wire because of the small resistance in the wire. The only way to fix this would be to increase the wire size to have less drop in the wires. The voltage changes could also be due to a weak or poorly charged battery. Clean the connections and check the alternator connections also. This problem would be noticed more at idle, when the alternator's output is lower.

If a bad thermostat is blocking the coolant then it seems that the coolant in the radiator would never get hot enough to turn on the fan switch. I think you should replace the thermostat first and then see what happens. Be sure to put the new one in the same way the old is. I would use a OEM replacement also.

Keep up the good work. By learning these things now it will help you down the road later.

The problem might just be be a bad plug or plugwire. Even new one ones can be bad, though not often.

It may be a fuel filter.

Here are some links to sites you could try: http://www.subaruparts.com/ http://www.allsubaru.com/home.html

It sounds to me that the radiator is building up excessive pressure somehow. Possibly from a headgasket leak. I would get a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. If that is ok then changing the radiator cap may help solve this problem.

I also agree with the others about changing the fuel filters before changing the plug wires at least. This just may be the trick in fixing the problem. If the plugs are over 30k miles old you should change them anyways. I would recommend using NGK's if you don't already. A comment about gasoline quality. For years I used to fill the the cars with Cheveron gasoline until the company left the state (Alaska). I then switched to using Tesoro and have had no problems what so ever with any of the cars using this brand. The gas is blended with ethenol during the winter months up here at least. Not sure about the summer.

It may be a fuel pump problem also. Have the pressure checked.

Nice lookin' car Josh. You've got a great looking car there along with a nice ride also.

I would start with the plugs and look them over, as you replace them, for any unusual signs of wear. Then try the wires it that doesn't help. A weak fuel pump may cause this also.

You will notice the difference in power I'm sure with the H-6 but it does cost more in gas.

It would help make your posts more readable if you put punctuation in your sentences. If I understand your previous posts correctly you state that the dash lights do not work at all, is that correct? If so, then I would see if you have power at the dimmer control and if there is, see if the voltage changes as you change the control position and measure the wiper arm contact of the the potentiometer. This wire should feed the lights of the dash.

Hi Francis, I think the valve is on top of the engine. You may have a loose connection to the solenoid. I'm sure there is a fuse or breaker for the AC compressor somewhere. There may also be a relay under the dash and you possibly disconnected something else while under there. Also check the connection to the compressor if you haven't already.

I have heard of people cleaning them before but I have never done it. Using some carburator cleaner may do the trick.

I agree. Check the fusible links for a blown link or bad connection.

There may be a fuse behind the dash somewhere for the dash lights. I seem to recall someone mentioning that before. Not sure if the fuse was for the lights or the stereo.

You should check the PCV valve for a problem. It sounds like the air filter is bad. Have you tried running the engine without it to see if that changes things?

That is a lot to spend. I suppose they were going to put new heads on for that much money; which would be a good idea.

Welcome to the forum Micheal. I have not souped up anything myself but I think changing out the intake and exhaust systems may be the best bang for your buck and not be too overwhelming.

I would first check for a carburator or vacuum leak problem.

I'm getting a little sentimental here. My first new car, an '83 GL-10 wagon, came from Carter. You didn't say what really fixed your problem. You ought to take Jamie up on her offer. She may be able to help fix things up. I have worked with her a little and got great help from her.

I think you need to connect the wires for troubleshooting first to get a code sequence. Your problem with the engine dieing may be due to a problem in the ECU or, the fuel control unit is not seeing the signal from the CAS indicating the engine is running so it shuts the pump off. This is a safety issue. To verify this, place the probes of a voltmeter across the fuel pump power wires. If the power goes away and the engine dies then you will know. Also check for any codes in the ECU following this. My '88 wagon had a problem somewhat like this but once it died it would not run at all. I later found out a driver transistor had failed in the ECU that controls the the fuel pump ground connection.

Hi Mary, Give your dad a good hug if you haven't already for this. You'll knock his socks off. The check engine light is on because a code or multiple fault codes have been set in the ECU (engine control unit). The ECU is a rectangular box located on the firewall above the driver's feet. There is a LED light that is visible out the end of the ECU. This LED will display the stored fault codes in a Morse code type fashion. EX: Two long flashes and three short ones for 23. You will be able to decipher the codes with the info from this link. Look up the codes for your model year. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/ecucodes.html The green connectors that you mentioned in an earlier post should be connected only when doing some troubleshooting. They put the ECU in the fault mode if I remember correctly and are left disconnected during normal driving. Hang in there; you are getting close to being on the road again.