NoahDL88

With that few miles, it shouldn't have to be a work horse, but i understand that transportation is transportation. It should treat you right, just make sure that you check your oil regularly, and your CV boots from time to time. Also that engine has solid lifters, so when the clicking starts to drive you nuts you'll have to adjust it.

It seems a lot of guys here swear by the Rislone engine treatment in the tranny's. If that dosn't work and you don't want to replace the gearbox just yet, you can always double clutch.

Don't know if the EJ22T is a DOHC, but if its not it'll fit just fine, i dunno about the turbo though, but in Austin's 1980 wagon it fit just fine, it was close, but it fit. I'd also second the bigger brakes idea, even with the non turbo i wish i had better brakes.

Ethanol is a plant alcohol that is derived predominatly from corn. It burns much cleaner, and is theoretically a renewable resource with which we can replace gas, as long as every square inch of the US is converted to corn production. Race gas is Leaded gas, like what the old blues mobile ran on, it isn't streat legal and it will ruin your cat converters. The octane may be the same, but they are two unrelated fuels. leaded gasoline still burns at a 14.7:1 ratio, where as i had stated E85 burns at 6:1 Super high-po racing gas is Methanol, but thats just for funnycars, and top fuel dragsters. On the subject of Octane, If your car is designed for regular and you do nothing to the car but put in premium, it will do nothing for performance, and fuel economy will suffer. Its a longer hydrocarbon chain that does not have more engergy per unit size, it just resists detonation better. I don't care if you have a friend of a friend who did this and got fantastic results, cause he's lying. On the other hand, if your car takes premium, you'd better stick with it, or you'll detonate, or at the least, your computer will retard your timeing to the point where you'll forget you have that turbo.

Sorry, i define alightment by factory adjustable, not being able to hack the car back into a similar shape to what it was.

Umm, drain the tank and start over. really Ethanol, E85 burns at 6:1 air fuel ratio, Gasoline burns at 14:1, so as i'm sure you can figure out, it is running uber lean. Its also eating away at your rubber lines and seals. find a friend with a ford with the leaf logo on it, and transfer the tank. Really, this is bad for your engine.

Sorry for being a stickler, but with the bellows part, i was thinking you had air ride. any 85-94 GL/Loyale 2wd and 4wd components will work, as long as they are non air ride, the 4wd will make it higher, and the 2wd will keep it where it is. SubieStyles in OR is getting rid of a whole set of supsension components, there XT parts, so they would lower the car a little bit though.

It sure does feel nice completing that first long distance shakedown run, especially with no problems. Congrats

There also not adjustable in the rear, so even a dealership won't get it right.

crawl under your car and make sure that you do or do not have air ride, once you do that we should be able to help you out much more easily.

I looked for about 10 minutes, in an 87 FSM, couldn't find it, maybe it was a dealer installed option, so they won't be in the FSM?

4, 1.8 OHC 5, 1.8 OHC Turbo 4WD 7, 1.8 OHC Turbo 4WD Air Suspension

The red one is the one you should be referenceing, as far as the 4,5,7 vin, don't know off the top of my head, but for most parts it shouldn't matter, It could be the difference between air ride and coil spring suspension, whihc leaves one other possibility i guess.

Bah, there pre-dismantled, whats the point of fishing if the fish are sitting in a cooler down by the docks. Thanks though, any place with Subaru in their phone number can't be all bad.

As one of the few on the board that have gone from SPFI to a weber, i can say without hesitation, DON'T. If your SPFI isn't runing right, fix it. the weber won't fix the existing problems in your engine. SPFI is like running 1000 jets, while the weber has 2. 2<1000.

paeco also makes cams, they are slightly more expensive though.

Thanks for the links, i need some stuff for the 88, and i might clean them out of their pug stash. I also got a wild hair to find a 1980 hatch, the parts to make the 5 lug conversion, and a USDM EJ20T, and make myself a Cannonball hatch replica. but that i think is a little ways off.

At first i was a bit skeptical, but that is a nice lookin car.

Make sure that you have enough fluid in your master cylinder, you may be low, which is either a leak, or most likely you're pads are getting thin, and they need replacing, which if they do, we'll hit the junkyards and we can get some rear disc parts and do the rear disc swap at the same time. It could also be that one of your brake lights are out, have Kim stand behind the car when you push the brakes, you might have a bulb out then.

I'm in San D for a month or so, then i'm heading up to seattle to live out of the back of my subie in the U district until i get a job or another degree which ever comes first.

Dave and Styles, did i ever tell you that you guys are my heros? Very cool

Tex, when i get back to Seattle, i'd be more than happy to help out in any way i can, anything between the bumpers i can fixor, especially clutches.

If its a brat its an EA-81, OHV, if its got 4 doors its an EA-82, OHC. If its a coupe/hatchback it could be either, the hatchback is EA-81, and the coupe is EA-82. If you post up the vin there's got to be someone here that could decode it for you.

I'm in San Diego, willing to go as far as southern LA, looking to find a do it yourself junkyard, don't like the ones where they pull it themselves. If anyone down here has a "favorite" where they treat you right and the prices are fair, let me know.

I'm gonna have to vote for the EA-82 body, preferably a DL wagon, but as far as plants, EJ22 FTW