NoahDL88

Sorry, couldn't hear you all the way over in Seattle, with our pro sports teams, the ocean, and all the old subies with exhaust leaks. The "west siders" wheel at Evan's Creek, Reiter Pit, and sometimes Walker Valley. There are a few other places, but you have to know people to go there.

Excellent write up, thanks for the link. Maybe we could get this in the sticky?

I don't know if a gasket is involved with the PS pump, but i don't think there is one. As far as the bolts, snug, but you don't have to hang from the ratchet.

96 OBS W/99 Forester struts and springs. No, because you can't, unless you get a custom lift made, which would negate the necessity of the forester struts.

I don't know about detailed instructions, but i'd say just pull the old, put in the new, and fill the new one till it gets between the lines, you won't have to flush it unless you really want to, the pump's design is self bleeding.

I'f your really good about checking the oil then it should be ok. If its a stick shift then i might get it done sooner, as you might get oil on the clutch, small chance, but its there. Be sure, either way, that when the install a new one, that the new one is metal, it won't end up cracking and leaking like this one did.

I've heard rumors, that a bit of steel wool or a scotch brite pad in the hoze will allow airflow, but not allow oil flow, might check that out too.

Well, that was classy

I got the Tercel one from McBrat a few years back, i still need to wire it in, but its chillin on my dash now.

I'd like to remind everyone that this thread started about 3 years ago, so the original poster is probably long gone, and driving a camry right now. Huzzah, postus resurectus

At the dealership, we didn't bother pulling the intake, they just got the newest guy (me) to climb into the engine bay (just of the highway in august, customer waiting) and replace #8, as this one is usually skipped because its so hard to get to. I had heat rash for 2 weeks. Yeah, you could say i rather prefer subies.

The older ones had a 15 amp, but i don't know about the newer ones. I have to caution you, if you are doing this for an increase in MPG, its been tried, and it dosn't work. its also a sure fire way of blowing up your tranny, if you leave it for months at a time. If you got a flat, and have a T type spare, by all means, but this isn't a solution for MPG.

Umm, isn't that the point, the low range for rock crawling and the high range for highway? I find highwya driving very practial with the old dual range, 35 mpg.

Autozone will test an alternator for free, i'd suggest letting them do it, as i don't really know how you'd test it in the car with it disconected and the car running.

Why are you taking out the ball joint, it dosn't need to come out to do the axle. mark the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle, and pull them instead.

I would urge extreme caution against putting any lubricant on the threads of your wheel studs. You really don't want your lug nuts coming loose. Just not a good idea.

Thank you?

I was under the impression that they had, and that certain years had an extension on the head gasket warranty. They don't want to be the BMW of Japan, who wants to be over weight, over priced and have poor reliability to boot.

If you have any wiring questions don't hesitate to shoot me a PM, i'll help if i can.

ABS is not designed to stop you quicker, its designed to keep your wheels from locking up, so you can maintain control as you deccelerate, as opposed to plowing. Of course, ABS, AWD and a multitude of other letters can't stop you from being 16.

D/R FTW I guess i'm biased too, but unlike Adam, i have a fondness for wagons, but ohh for a Brat, mmmmm.

Your accessory belt may be a bit loose, maybe try tightening it, i had the same problem a week ago, 2 minutes with a 12mm wrench and i havn't heard it since.

Proper timing is key on those engines, especially with a weber and a good exhaust, you should be able to advance the timing out to 12 ish, but make sure you don't detonate. check your plugs, and "read" them, that should also tell you what you may need to be doing with your carburettor.

Like i tell everyone else that dons't bother searching, try kennedy engineering, give them a call, they should be able to help you out, and they have a kit for around 25 bucks that has everything you'd ever want to know about this swap, and then some. its well worth it.

Not true. AWD has a differential in the center, that distributes power to all 4 wheels all the time. 4WD has a Transfer case, which puts power to 2 wheels only, and when 4wd is engaged, power goes to all 4 wheels.