NoahDL88

The "vortex" generating spacers create turbulence, which reduces flow. on a subie, a straight cut might work, but the gains won't be worth the 40-70 bucks for one.

Looks like i'll be in state within 3 months, i'd like to help if i can.

if its an auto, you have to seperate the flex plate from the torque converter, if not, jack the transmission up about 3 inches, as far forward as you can get the jack, and then the engine mounts will clear the cross member. There are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the transmission, if you got them all, i'd reccomend some persuasion a'la rubber mallet before you bring out the big guns.

use a candle, even a votive candle will work, and hold it to the inside of the belt, obviously be very careful as this is safe if you pay attention, but can get dangerous if you are careless. the wax acts as a lube, but it won't make the belt slip. plane white boring candles are best, but i guess any candle would work.

89, but they made the Loyale, essentially a rebaged GL with the DL 4wd transmission until 94

Thats better than my idea, i would have used a small button, and sewed it to the webbing. You wanna be careful, as you don't want to cut any of the threads in the webbing.

That is the theory. I'll be bringing all my Subie stuff to a home base, aka "parents garage" and loading up in the 88, and heading north to seek my fortune. I have a friend coming in from Zurich on the 26th, so we should be heading out on the 27th or 28th with the 96 and the 88, i'll be flying back to Detroit after New Years, and takeing the 80 down with whats left in the apartment to San Diego, some time around mid January, early February I should be pulling into Seattle. Mcbrat, if i'm headed through Iowa, i'll be sure to stop by.

I have 2 route options, This is the northern route, about 20 minutes quicker, but snow could be an issue. Northern route Southern Route

We leave Tomorrow for San Diego, first night is planned in St. Louis, and after that who knows. the route is.... Indianapolis, St. Louis, OK City, Amarillo Tx, Flagstaff Nm, Tuscon Az, Las Vegas for New Years, and then San Diego. If you live along this route give me a call, its always nice to hear a friendly voice on the road. two three one- five 8 zero, six 2 4 niner. And my name is Noah, incase you didn't figure that one out in the screen name. I may be making a road trip down to San Diego, next monday, the 19th, from Michigan to San Diego, and if the worst should happen, i'll be needing a place to wrench. I'll be taking the southernmost route, to avoid the mountains if i can, as i could be pulling a trailer. Don't really know what that route is, but i'd like to go south of Colorado, but well north of Texas. Any help would be appreciated if i end up needing it, I should know by Friday the 16th, if i'll be going. If you see an old 88 Subie with a lift and Stickers, i'll be on CH 5, and i'll have my ears on.

I went from SPFI to a Webber, biggest waste of 500 bucks ever. if you already have SPFI, keep it, it will run better than even the best tuned weber, trust me. go through the basics, air filter, fuel filter, plugs, cap, wires, rotors. Be sure to use NGK's they will work best in that old EA-82, and on that note, no, EJ anything won't work, cams are totally different.

Acetone is 150 octane, so detonation is not what killed your piston.

I feel your pain wanting to use the engine you have, but if you build a complete custom rock buggy, it may be worth it to get a 2.2 or even a 2.5 motor and mate that to a T-5 transmission, i'm sure Kennedy might be able to get that to work for you. My plan, once i win the lottery, was to get a 3.0 H6, mate it to a T-5 and a 4:1 T case, with some nice C-303 Portal axles. but thats just me.

There is a MPFI for that model, but after you do all the work to swap the wiring harness, you might as well swap in a EJ22, the EJ22 is less wiring work, although you need an adapter plate. It didn't take that much time, i did cut down the harness quite a bit, but that is the hardest part of the swap, i probably had about 20 hours worth of work into the harness, 2 hours to get the plate on and the engine in, and another 5-10 hours to fixor the rest of the car up into a running order. If you are high speed, and work real hard, i'd say that it could be doable in a weekend, but i'd reccomend at least 2 weeks before you absolutely need the car again, although most of the prep work can be done before you tear into the car.

They usually are

If its an OBD II EJ22, i'd reccomend disconnecting the bolt where the exhaust manifold bolts to the back of the transmission, put a small bolt in there so it dosn't come apart, but keep it loose if you can, i had the very same issue on a 96 OBS, and i took off that bolt, and most of the shaking=>knocking went away.

I'd guess that the biggest worry with turboing a phase one 2.5 is that you'll be blowing a head gasket in no time, if you do turbo it you might want to swap in some turbo pistons, and the new EJ257 head gaskets. I'd even go so far as to say you should either switch to the SOHC heads, or possibly the 2.0 turbo heads. If you're gonna turbo, you might as well do it right.

Subaru's have a different order, i don't have the picture on me or i'd post it. Also, you want to make sure that pedal dosn't go to the floor, that can cause issues with your master cylinder leaking or causing fluid to go past the seals.

Huzzah Postus Resurectus, but i have to ask, what does putting an EA-81 into an RX have to do with putting a better carb on a EA-81 going into a trike? The "transplant forum" would be a better bet, the "retrofit forum" is for subaru into subaru.

You might get the tire place DP i'm assuming? to replace your trans, as it was their negligence that ruined your transmission. I'll be in BR until about noon tomorrow, tuesday, if you want me to come over and take a look at it.

I'd start with a good tune up, make sure your ignition system is good, and you are running NGK plugs, anything else and the car will run like crap, so if you got some Bosch +4's get rid of them ASAP. change your fuel filter, thats usually the next suspect, and if that dosn't work you may have some issues with the cat converter being clogged. I'd also do a compression check, if your compression is down that would certainly cause some low power issues, and a rebuild might be in order. I have an 88DL too, and i did the 2.2 legacy engine swap, and its been running better now with the 2.2 then it ever did with the 1.8

Before you get the new radiator, make sure it is infact plugged, once its kinda warm run your hand up and down the back, if the fans don't prevent it. if there are cold spots its certainly plugged. There is also a small chance, if the mechanic didn't pull the radiator, that between the radiator and the condenser, leaves, dirt or other debris has collected and lessened airflow. Good luck, Serenity 'll hold together, she always does.

Only way to tell if the intake sucked in water is if the air filter is wet, or discolored, a quick test after the mud puddle is if it bogs down a fair amount, i got through a hole and got my filter wet, by the end i could only turn 1000 rpm. As for the black skid plate, its important if you plan on offroading again, maybe its time to upgrade to a aluminum one, it'll be hard to hide the offroad action from your parents if there's a rock through the oil pan.

There is a solenoid that controls the AWD, and a fuse in the engine bay that disables it. under that theory, if you hook up a swith to the parking brake release button, you could have it activate when you push the button. I've got a 5mt that i'll be swapping in eventually so i just e-brake slide away, however, i put in a stiffer rear sway bar, so i don't need the ebrake for that any more. I have a OBS, so i used a WRX wagon bar, but in an OBW, you might need to get one from IDP or Rallitek

An engine is and engine is an engine. The subie's are slightly different in how they come apart, the wrist pins and pistons come apart before the case, but other than that they are straight forward. The three things i would check very carefully would be the bearing surfaces, the valve seats, and the cylinder walls. other than that use OEM parts if you can, they are certainly better than the aftermarket, especially for the head gaskets and the timing belts.

I was planning on using the 91 5mt from my legacy in a 96 OBS, everyone seems to think it will work, although i may need to find the OBS pedal cluster. These things are like legos though, should work just fine.