NoahDL88

EJ's FTW

Factory Service Manual, the best, and most complete information about anything on your car, bumper to bumper.

The 4 lug will be strong enough for any tire up to 29 inches, after that i'd reccomend the 6 lug conversion, although i don't know anybody, 4 or 6 lug thats had them break, its the axles that usually go first.

Use the punch, thats what the hole in the end of the axle is for!!

I would use the punch you use to get out the roll pin to hit the end of the axle out of the hub, that way if you need to you can re-use the axle, if things prove to be more difficult then you have anticipated. As far as setting the new one, it should slide right in, or with some minor persuation, a hammer should not be needed, just keep the spacer in-between the bearings centered.

Then your user name has much more meaning then mine. I have an 80, 88 and a 96, so just about any question you can throw at me i should be able to answer, or i can difer to the experts. I have a set of FSM for 87 if you should want them, there great light reading.

Its not my article, its on the USRM, Obviously two things that are the most important are #1, make sure the pads and rotors are still in good condition, i'd reccomend new pads at the very least. and once you are done, bleed the brakes real good, any air bubbles in the system will make you not stop, funny story. #2, make sure the donor vehicle is the same as the recipient. 4wd to 4wd, or 2wd to 2wd. they don't swap over.

Check your timing, make sure that you're at 20 degrees.

I guess first things first, make sure the parking brake is off. If it smells like its coming from the heater vents, it might be a heater core, if it smells anything like syrup thats what it is. It could also be a blown out CV boot on the passenger side, flinging grease on the passenger side Cat Converter.

That's your body/engine code, it means you have an over-head cam engine, although the 82 in your name would suggest that you have an EA-81, with a car made in 1982, as you yourself were not born until 89.

Disc Brake Conversion

That is actually the very one i have on my car, tony sold that one to me along with his rear bumper/airtank. Beansy82, please don't take this the wrong way, as i don't mean it to be rude or harsh. I see you are asking a lot of good questions, some we have answered already some to great extent, if you want quick answers use the search function, and all your questions will be answered, and if not, by all means ask away. i too asked the liftkit, bigger tires, and the webber questions, so don't feel bad.

If you got the pugs, go with em, i love em, i got a set on 2 of the 3 subies i have, 100% of the 4 bolters. With the Toys, they are more necessary when you move up to bigger than 28 inches, or live in a pug free zone.

took the 4EAT out to the mountains, some real gnarly 4WD only trails, there were some places where the pucker factor was 10+ but she got us through, no mud though, that would have been a different story. With these, i've learned, the least amount of throttle you can give the better. In general, as has been stated, a 2wd is a 1wd, and a 4wd is a 2wd, if you have a locker you have 3wd, and with an LSD you have 2.5wd.

I dunno how the front of the T case mates to the 5 speed, or 4 speed, but its my thinking that this needs to be as straight as possible, you may be running into problems there, but thats all i can see, maybe someone who has done it will oblige us with some pictures, i'm hoping to do somthing like that myself, ifn' i get this job i might get me a garage to myself and maybe swing down to Iowa to get a Toyota frame and axles.

When my DL didn't want to come out, i'd push the button, roll forward in neutral about 20 feet, and the go in reverse and coast that way another 20 feet, it helps if you are on a slippery surface. Now is a good time to check to make sure that your tires are the same size front and rear, when i got my car it had 175's on the front and 185's on the rear.

I've got 2 CCR engines and even with shipping i found them to be worth it. for the peace of mind and the 3/36 warranty they are definately worth it.

Those should be fine, but if you have the extra shekels lying around, i'd spring for the Optima Red top, will outlast any car you put it in.

You'll like the 88 block better, it has hydro lifters, which are "maintenence free" but if they start ticking run some MMO, marvel mystery oil, in your oil for about 500 miles and that should clear them up.

All you need besides the basic tools is a 5/16th punch for the roll pin, and iirc a 36mm socket for the hub. The beauty of the hole on the outboard end of the axle is that its the perfect size to put the 5/16th punch in and hammer the axle out of the hub, sure beats narfing the threads on the axle.

Fair enough

Vapor lock maybe?

There are two things that come to mind, either a bearing is fried or the rings are real tight. or what i'm thinking it is, that when it was torn down, coolant got onto the cylinder walls and rusted. I dunno about diesel, but i'd lube up your cylinders real well with oil, a good squirt in all 4 will help, you might also prime the oil pump real good so that once it starts running it gets oil there real quick. Also, i'd change the oil and filter after a hundred miles or so, checking frequently to make sure that surface rust hasn't become too heavy in your oil.

It occurs to me that i read your post wrong. To get an aftermarket wheel on, you will have to get the adapter hub to make it work.

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but they probably stopped production of all your body pannels about 3 months before they stopped building the Ute, and the last one off the line was the last complete set they had.