NoahDL88

It occurs to me that there is no good reason to not wear your seatbelt. Pardon my french, but you'd be a Dumb @$$ to not wear it.

Going 80 on the 5 is just keeping up with traffic, which is different than racing someone else.

I'd be more inclined to let the speeding go if he wasn't street racing.

No problem, any other questions don't be afraid to ask, or search, chances are its already been covered by someone smarter than me.

You know, i noticed he was from Canada, and it didn't click, or more accuately i was too lazy to check if it was MPH or KPH, i guess 122kph isn't sooooo bad.

the factory service manual, or FSM would be your best bet, but thats gonna cost you about 100 bucks the second best is the "how to keep your subaru alive" by John Muir, but i don't know if he covers the newer stuff. The third best bet is Chiltons or Haynes, they have good step by step instructions, but are no where as good as the Factory manuals. All i can suggest is go slow, and if you feel any resistance, stop, and double check. a few minutes looking around can save you hours of frustration. BTW, if you have an auto, you will have to seperate the flexplate from the torque converter before you pull the motor, the 4-8 bolts should be accessable from either the flywheel inspection hole on the top, or through the stampped metal cover on the bottom, i don't know for sure, i don't deal much with the automatics.

Then how do you explain 122mph? do you have 117mph Zones? To be fair, most of us have done things like this, but for the most part we don't ever talk about it. We can help make your car faster, but we don't want to know what you're doing with it, unless its legal. Same story for the offroaders, we love to see those guys in action, i'm one of them, but if they're trespassing, we don't want to know about it.

Try Nasioc, there more EJ savvy over there. but i can confirm that either the 2.2 or the 2.0 heads will work, but i can't remember which, and yes, they really raise compression quite a bit, but i don't know which octane you will need. What will make it more reliable will be the new headgaskets, the EJ257 gaskets are much better than the older headgaskets off the older 2.5 DOHC motors. If you're gonna go this far, i'd reccomend cams and a "perfect power 6" tuned piggyback ECU or you won't get the swaps full potential

Only takes one time to kill yourself or someone else. going over 120, you're lucky he didn't give you a reckless driving ticket and take your licence.

I wanted some history on Nakajima, and needed to refocus google so i searched "Nakajima Subaru" and there it was

I wouldn't want to hit Paul either. You might try Aaron's auto wrecking in Seattle, shipping won't be so bad on somthing like that. Ebay still may be cheaper though

http://www.worldhistory.com/wiki/S/Subaru.htm Scroll to the bottom and look at their Subaru links, the whole thing is cool, but at the bottom, one of the links is the icing on the cake. Neat site too.

A question slightly less vague would also be helpful. there are 4 bolts that hold the engine to the transmission, 2 engine mounts on the bottom and a dog bone on top, the exhaust is held on by 4 or 6 bolts depending on what year. electrical is somewhat more tricky, and if you have a stick be sure to remove the hill holder cable. jack the tranny up about 3 inches and your motor mounts will clear the cross member, lift and seperate.

One more thread like this and i may have to move out to Seattle, whether i get the job or not.

there is a small hose that goes from the top of the engine block to just under the carb/TB, that could be your culprit.

do a search, there are plenty of threads that should answer those questions.

I used a helicoil and i believe a 3/8th diameter stud, got the whole kit and studs for like 25 bucks

Congrats on the score, i'd feel guilty if i were you, but not for too long.

For us Yanks, the vortex is the XT right, or is the Alcyone the XT? I have both the 88XT and the 87RX manuals, i should be able to get a picture of the pages that you need. but there might already be some pdf files on the web somewhere.

i'll assume that since the vehicle has a 4 inch lift, that you are also running bigger tires. If you're not, then you have somthing seriously wrong with your engine. even the stock motor with street tires should be adequate. Try this same question in the Retrofitting forum. The ER27 is a good swap, its been done a few times, but you'll have to modify the radiator support, but it does bolt right onto the transmission. Speaking of transmissions, if you havn't already, swap in a D/R tranny, that will help off road, but your 5th gear problems won't go away. I'd swap in the EJ22, you need an adapter plate, and there are now two sources on the board, Mudrat and Hatchmonster. the wiring won't be any harder than the ER27, and if you get the info packet from www.kenedyeng.com its actually quite easy. Good luck, in any engine choice, i'm gonna reccomend again the D/R tranny, my DL came with the same tranny yours has, and the D/R swap was the single best addition to that car for off roading

there is another place that has these in stock depending on what bulb setup you are running, Susquehana motorsports if i remember correctly. Google them and you'll find some good stuff one headlight upgrades. Just waiting to get a good job before i get their headlight replacement covnersion.

Cowboy, i'm sure this is of no help, but when i worked for an airbag company, we would sell airbags to GM we would sell them for less than 50 bucks, and they would turn around and sell them to the consumer for 700 bucks. that just seems grotesque to me. Try aarons auto wrecking in seattle they might have some. Shipping is no issue if they are shipped ground and are declared. Air freight is out.

My Ultimate, Hatchback 3.0 H6 T-5 RWD transmission Atlas T-case 4:1 or higher low range, Unimog or C-303 Portal Axles, possibly even Hummer axles, Lockers of course, with the Cybrid H-6 steering pump 38-44 inch Swampers And of course all the fun little additions that make life worth while, winch, welter, on board air. With all that weight, i would certainly think that the Hatch would need serious reinforcement structurally, as well as for safety. Yeah, i know, its not much of a Subie anymore, but putting the H-6 through an old D/R tranny, and then trying to turn some serious tires, you are the weakest link good bye.

Standard sail canvas might do you real well, theres got to be some kind of rubber coating you could apply like those weird rubber gloves your mom uses to wash dishes with. Ross, MagnificentSubaru, i don't know if he's still on here, but at the HPSS1 he had a cover just as you are speaking of in place of his 3rd door on a 3 door coupe.

I believe that the alignment pin, the extra hole of the 3 where the pully bolts to the cam, there is a 4th one that has a roll pin in it, on the drivers side that needs to be straight up, and on the passenger side, straight down. As far as your flywheel, if you don't have the 3 marks left on that you're totally fracked.