NoahDL88

do a search, we use the XT-6 clutch, it can hold 145 hp, so were good to go, if you combine an XT 6 pressure plate and a legacy or Impreza kevlar clutch you'd be good to go.

http://cobbtuning.com/impreza/brakes1.html#lines http://www.rallitek.com/products.asp?ID=352&ACC=Y I'm under the impression that the newer brake lines fit on the older subies, its just a matter of finding which ones you want, me, i'd go with the forester kit, cause i would assume that they would be the longest, which would work with the PK lift kit. But if the bandit with the third eye has them, i always like buying "local"

That first pic is now my wall paper, and a very convincing argument to move to seattle. I should know by friday if i have a job offer, if i don't i'm thinking a move to seattle is in order.

Hoopty, i believe the difference between your OBW and 97's is that his is actually his parents.

You are on the right track with the rear disc brakes, you might also try stainless steel lines, won't help with the stopping as much as improving brake feel dramatically. you may be able to find better brake pads, which would be the cheapest way of improving brake feel, "racing" pads will help a little.... if you can find them.

Yeah, but i believe it only has the RX low range, 1.19, not the 1.52 or whatever the N/A low range is.

can't break a minute, i'm out

Took her around the block today, she pulls like its going out of style, even with the swampers. got some relays and fuses set up so the offroad lights and the cooling fan should be working tomorrow. ran into a small problem, i don't seem to have power to the dash anymore, so nothing works. and the speedo head or cable is no good, i was keeping up with traffic in a 25 zone and it said i was turning 125 mph.

i believe there is a flip over valve, but that won't effect the car unless you... flip over.

watch your coolant temp, i had my belts a tooth off, and the temp went through the roof

Maybe your spark plug gap is too big, or your timing is too advanced? If its bogging it may be going uber rich, ,maybe dial back the rising rate fuel pressure dingus, or make sure that the stock one is good.

there's also stone guard. may be cheaper Heres some sites i found http://www.nochips.com/ http://www.clearbra.net/home2.html http://www.stongard.com/sgcontent/default.asp

you want the green connectos, at least the ones by your wiper motor to be apart for normal driving, if you plug them in the car will not be happy.

It does have an indicator, mine did, but when i swapped in the GL D/R transmission i just jumped the two wires so that the light was always on.

Although the OBS is really a 4 door hatchback.

Study up on the new stuff, the more you know the more you will learn to trust it, i'm sure you remember a day when adjusting the carb and setting the timing was intimidating.

Those are your "V" belts, no timing required

the electronic parts are way more reliable then the carb and the old school ignition, sure there more expensive but they fail much less. i have 2 EJ powered cars, and now have a third, and the 2 that i've had running, have been running like champs with no interference for over a year, with the older motors, caps rotors and other items had to be replaced frequently. don't forget to add in the time working on the car into the money quotent, if it takes 4 hours to clean out a carb and re-install it, what does that cost you?

for wheels you have 2 options, the 13 inch subie wheel, or any pugeout wheel off a 505 and a 504 model, the bolt patter you will be looking for is 140mm x 4 only the early subies and the 2 pug models had that pattern. Mcbrat in IA has some pug wheels for sale, 14 inch steelies, if you're looking to upgrade to a bigger wheel and or tire that would be the way to go.

Wagons are my second love, right behind Subaru's all 3 of my subies are wagons, and hopefully by the end of November i'll have a nice action shot of all three in the mud.

while your in there, cam seals, oil pump seals and a new water pump are cheap insurance.

take the vacuume line off the disty and then set the base timing for what ever the car requires. 20 for spfi 8-12 iirc for carby models

Being 16 only a few short years ago, i can attest to the fact that one does stupid things when friends are in the car. heck, i still tried the same things when i was 22. long story short, had it not been for the expert spotting of one of the "Godfathers" of Subaru, my dad's brand new forester would be in much, much worse shape. Please, don't ruin your dad's car. I concur with tim, get a beater and learn on that, surgeons start on cadavers, cheaper and safer.

I got my 88 running, now its your turn. Concider this a friendly taunt from the Michigan croud. better get it ready before the snow falls

the bolt hole sizes are different, so if you are using an EA-81 motor with a 5spd D/R keep the EA-81 flywheel, but use the EA-82 pressure plate and clutch at least i'm pretty sure thats what i did. EA-82 clutch, EA-81 flywheel and pressure plate, thats what i did.