NoahDL88

Check for continuity in the wire bundles that are wrapped in rubber between the body and the hatch, my defrost works, but my rear wiper dosn't, its probably the same issue, just different wires.

I believe Bilbo put it best, "I don't know half of you half as well as I should like, and I like less than half of you half as well as you deserve" Clearly, about the second half i'm mostly kidding. But about the first half, I truely mean it. I'd be lying if i said that the move to Seattle wasn't based somewhat on the USMB and the wonderful people I have met through it.

OZ, sent you a PM And why yes, i am 7, I'm the smarterest 7 year old ever

But most everyone is in the US not AU, so shipping would be horrid.

So the plan is to leave either the 27th or 28th, maybe even the 29th, first night is planned in OK city, maybe a few hours farther, second night will be planned as a late arrival in San Diego.

I'm cautiously optomistic that i may be in Seattle by then, if i am, i'm in.

The big "checkered" black box under the gas tank is the EVAP canister, it holds fuel vapors until the engine is at a certain perameter then it burns the vapors to keep from them being vented into the atmo.

The rear driveshaft should be 2 piece. if it is, you can pull the center section of the drive shaft, behind the carrier bearing and in front of the rear diff, there will be a total of 8, 12mm bolts. be careful not to strip them, as after 14 years, it will happen easily. it should be clear very quickly if this is done right, if you see splines the wrong end was pulled.

The XT-6 Pressure plate will bolt on to the EA-82 flywheel (99%) sure. When mateing the EJ to the EA-82, you use the redrilled EA flywheel, and the XT-6 flywheel and pressure plate. Interesting to note, but the legacy has the same spline as the EA-82 transmissions. so you may be able to run a high po legacy kevlar clutch.

Its a difference in Exhaust Velocity. a proper funtioning exhaust needs to flow at 240-260 fps, any slower and it becomes "stagnant" and any faster and the friction losses increase exponentially and create "backpressure" When you remove the cats and other restrictions, you move the band at which the engine flows best, in that 240-260 fps sweet spot, so at low end the flow becomes stagnant.

Miles Fox in training?

The 4spd and the 5spd have different splines, so the XT-6 won't fit on the 4 speed.

It seems to me that, (flame suit on) that the Evo MR and the STi are the exact same car, with a different badge. out of 100 articles, the Sti wins 50 times and the Evo wins 50. the vehicles are so similar that it boils down to what your preference is. a Quality Japanese product built in Gumma, or a shoddy Chrysler mut. There's a reason i don't write for MT.

OMG its Gorgeous.

I feel bad leaving without meeting you, it'd be a shame to go back to seattle without seeing your brat collection.

There are already makers of adjustable sway bars, depending on which hole you put the end link in it makes it "stiffer" May be worth looking into, probably easier than connecting 2 sway bars together.

Neon's are clearly not the halmark of quality design and engineering.

Yes, the 3 lines on the Flywheel, the center should be at the timing light tab thats cast into the block. The passenger side cam should be at 6 O'clock, and the drivers side should be at 12 O'clock. the "orienter" IIRC is the roll pin that aligns the cam sprocket next to the 3 bolts that hold the sprocket on. As for tension, i always go from the crank out, and make it as tight as i can on the sprocket, and adjust tension after on the other side, as for how tight do i get it? i couldn't tell you, but some where between tight, and good and tight.

I've been wanting to figure a way of making these. I tell you what, if i get around to designing somthing that might work, you'll be the 2nd to know.

My dealer, when they did my clutch, replaced the plastic one for a metal one, as standard practice as part of the clutch service. I'd do it, and it looks like your doing it anyway. Aluminum FTW

Its the "Idiot quotient" nobody wants to be the only guy that didn't get 30 horse power from their modification that everyone else did too. I'm pretty sure if you saw actuall real dyno numbers from an objective testing facility, 90% of the junk on the "intake" market would be put out of business.

I have taken college physics, and my degree is in Auto Engineering. and i can tell you that from a design standpoint that is bunk, air is already a gas, so no atomization is necessary, and in a MPFI car, the runners are dry, so the turbulence that is added in TBI to keep the fuel in better suspension is worthless and reduces flow on a MPFI system. From a more practial standpoint, if car company "A" is making 100,000 vehicles, and for 5-10 dollars can add a gizmo "B" that raises the fuel economy of a vehicle 10-20% which then raises there CAFE numbers by "X" then car company "A" pays less in fines, which number approxamately 500$ per vehicle. 500,000<50,000,000 Now let me ask you this, don't you think that company "A" would put them on from the factory, its the same story as the K&N air filter, they don't increase flow appreciably, and they let in more particulates. I'm not saying that a "vortex generator" won't work in all aplications, but I will say this, the applications it works best in, are TBI and Carbed engines, because those are "wet" manifolds and are designed to keep fuel in suspension, not to maximize air flow.

The drivers side turbo won't fit without some major re-engineering, it hits the master cylinder for the brake system. most people that have used the TT engine have swapped on a single turbo system.

if you have seats with the side airbag, i would highly reccomend removing the airbags and inflators. those things have quite a bit of explosive power, and if your car was not designed for them, they could become a liability. Obviously if your car did come with them they are a great lifesaving thing to have.

This is really your best bet.