Gnuman

Outside of the seal flush with the rear surface of the block is fine.

Actually the pinstripe and the top part of the lower body color are a stick on application. Not cheap either. Only available as a whole side. THis is fine as long as you are planning on repainting the whole car. . .

If the alarm/keyless entry system is dealer installed, instead of factory, you will have a harder time locating the button. On factory installations, it is just behind the hood latch lever under the dash. On dealer installed systems, it can be anywhere under the dash. I will be near the keyless/alarm module which will be zip-tied somewhere under there ( I most often find it to the left, near the fuseblock). It will be small (about the size of a dime in diameter) and black. These two things only make it harder to find, sorry. Use a flashlight and be patient. You will find it eventually.

Actually, forcing it destroys the tensioner (blows a seal). The order for the head bolts is 3 1 6 5 2 4 Turn the head bolts 180 degrees at a time loosening. I have always reused the cam caps. The debate is over the headbolts, which Subaru also says are reusable. The torque on the cam caps is 14ft-lbs, except for the front ones (where the cam seal goes) which are 7ft-lbs. When replacing the timing belt, you will have two cams that are under lobe tension (the ones on the driver's side of the engine) and yes, an extra pair of hands comes in real handy. I recomend that you also refurbish the oil pump (replace teh O-ring and front crank seal, and tighten down the screws on the backplate of the impeller, as they tend to work thier way loose).

Ummm, the intake manifold bolts up to the heads, not the block.

The sunroof retrofit project has begun. I'm installing an OEM sunroof into a Legacy wagon that did not come with one. Project car: Emily. 92 Legacy L wagon, Ice Blue, AWD, 5MT, EJ22E 194K miles Donor Car: 91 Legacy LS wagon, Dark Blue, AWD, 4EAT, EJ22E 150K miles Ecpected issues: running the drain hoses, mounting of the sunroof tray assy, wiring, cutting/bending of the roof to fit the sunroof glass, clearance of the screws used to install roof rack (previous retrofit). Stage 1 (removal of sunroof components from donor): This went well, as I expected it would. The headliner is attached a little differently than the non sunroof type, but it came out easily enough, and was not damaged in the process. The main difference in the attachment of the headliner is that it is attached to the sunroof tray by what I thought was simply trim. That past, I unhooked all the wiring (connector at front for sunroof control, and the dome light). Next I loostened the bolts holding the sunroof to the car, removing al but two of them. The last two, loose but still holding the unit in, I removed while holding the tray to the cieling to keep it from falling and breaking. Man is that thing heavy! As I was lowering it, I discovered a mistake I had made, in not removing the drain hoses (fairly substantial ones at that! about a half inch ID, I was expecting them to be a bit smaller than that)They ended unhooking themselves though as I wrestled with the sunroof tray. I also traced where they go, as I want to install them in similar placement as the OEM. The front ones go down the A pillar (between the door glass and the windscreen), down the frame, and come out the wheelwell wall (the plastic part that lines the inside of the wheel well). The rears go all the way back and down the sides of the tailgate opening, to a silly series of pipe bends that are stuck into each other. I will be rerouting this slightly, to stick out a bit from the underside of the rear bumper cover. The tray itself held some good news for me as it has a rubber seal around the top outside, that seals to the metal of the roof. This means that leakage from a less than perfect fit will go into the tray, and out the drain hoses (4 of them), making this a bit less critical than if it actually needed to seal to the glass. I gathered all the parts from the donor car (dome lights, maplight console, tailgate light, drain hoses, grab handles, headliner, as much trim as I think I can use, etc) along with all the hardware that was used to mount it. Stage 2 (Demolition) : Now that I have the parts to install the sunroof, I need to take out the headliner from Emily. This goes easily, as I have done this before. Then I test-fit the sunroof tray to the roof. It is too heavy to manuver, so I remove the sunroof glass to lighten it up a bit. The motor is still heavy, but it is within what I can handle for a bit. OK, good news, some of the fittings are already in the car!! this means I can bolt at least two places into position while I get the rest installed. Looking at the fit, I need to remove the first three roof rails for this to go in. Hmmm, bad news: the rail that the back of the sunroof is bent down from the roof as the pegs that hold it in place were really tight when taking them out. I'm thinking that JB Weld will fix this. Where the donor car had studs to put the nuts on that hold the sunroof tray in place the project car has holes. I will probably be using bolts, and a bit of JB Weld to hold them in place. I will be taking annother look at the donor as I do not see a place to bolt up the front of the tray, which bothers me a bit. I'll also be looking at the possability of robbing the studs from the donor as well. Oh, and I will be looking to see if any of the roof ribs can be left in place with the instalation. But at least two of the roofrails have to come out.

It does not matter if the car was moving when the timing belt breaks. It does matter if the engine was moving. You say that the timing belt did not break? you got really lucky then. To the best of my information you do have an interference engine. Your engine is also susceptable to teh infamous headgasket leak. My recomendation is to change out the headgaskets, and have the heads checked while they are off, to rule out any chance of bent valves. When you reinstall the heads, with new headgaskets, you can install the new cam sprockets, and have killed two birds with one stone.

First off, welcome to the board! the clutch slave (the part that has a rod that hits the "throw arm") is supposed to adjust itself by pressure from the arm itself. if the rod is not touching the arm then the problem rests in that part of the system. You seem to have an issue with not enough fluid in the hyd. parts. Check the resivior for the clutch master and add as needed.tehn bleed the system again, as you likely have air in there, which is the only way I c an see the system releiving enough pressure to allow the rod to retract from the throw arm.

EJ251 and EJ252 were phase II and III of that engine, both SOHC. IIhad the external HG leak, and III was supposed to have cured it. Jury is out on that last bit, though. Call a local dealership and give them your VIN. They will be able to confirm the engine type for you. Actually, subaru.com should also be able to help you on that.

I see no mention of the type of transmission. Auto or Manual? O2 sensor is the most likely culprit. When you change the thermostat, be sure to use OEM Subaru. The aftermarket ones do not work as well, nor are they as reliable. The reason I asked about the transmission is that Auto trannies get a few MPG less than the Manual ones, as they have a bit more internal drag.

SOLVED! Turns out that the driveshaft center berring was in wrong, and the driveshaft was not lined up correctly. this placed stress on the center berring and the U-joints, causing them to bind. All is well with this car now.

Sorry I have not responded sooner, I have been away from my computer. The engine in question is a 15 3/4 (read that as fifteen and three quarter) valve EJ22B (for broken). One of the exaust valves on #3 was really badly messed up. New valve is in hand now, but I cannot find a spring compressor that will fit the keeper on Subaru engines (any help on that score greatly appreciated). Cylinder walls look good. The metal bits looked like brass. I also found similar shavings in the oil from Emily, and that engine has been very well treated. I have never run it dry, and this is the first time I have noticed any shavings in the oil. Emilys engine runs so well that I fully expect it to last at least annother 200K miles. If I find shavings in the next oil drain, I will take a sample of it to have it tested. The engine refered to in this thread title, is on a car I just got, and I have no history on the engine at all. I do have the right head off, and I'm preparing to replace the one bad valve in it (I have the lapping compound and lapping tools ready and waiting)

If that is the actual age of the car, and not a typo for 17yo car, it will still make a difference. Actually it will likely make a difference in either case. Also, in either case, at only 75K miles, all you should really need is the top end cleaning, which is done through a vacum line, or the PVC valve (your choice. I use the vac line as it is easier for me).

Replace both headgaskets. Do this with the engine out of the car. have the heads checked for flatness, and decked only if needed. While the engine is out, I would have them replace the plastic oil seperator with a metal one, as the plastic version has a tendancy to crack. Subaru discovered this themselves, and (IIRC) they only provide the metal ones now. Also replace the cam cover gaskets, the cam seals, the oil pump O-ring, and the grommets that go on the bolts that hold the cam covers on (there are also O-rings that go around the spark plugs. these should also be changed). While doing all this, it would be a good idea to replace the timing belt, and tighten up the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump. Once all this has been done, you should be able to rely on the engine for a good long time to come. I have done several of this particular operation, and have had no problems with any of the engines that I have so serviced. One note: the cam berring caps take 14ft-lbs, the caps that hold the cam seals take 7ft-lbs. Some of the manuals out there incorrectly list both at 7 or both at 14, causing problems.

I had not heard of SeaFoam before reading this forum either, but I saw some in a local AutoZone, and decided to give it a try (car had 140K on it then). The results were very impressive, to say the least. I have used it on several cars since, always with very good results. Well, except on the 90 Legacy wagoon I got for my ex-wife. That car had a 15 3/4 valve EJ22 in it. I just picked up the replacement valve today. SeaFoam is good, but there are limitations. . .

OK, let's take this one step at a time. First off, please tell us exactly what year and model of Subaru we are talking about here? Knowing exactly what engine we are talking about greatly improves our chances of giving you good advice. Second, the mechanic friend was trying to save you a few dollars, as the conditioner is a lot cheaper than the parts and labor to replace a headgasket. At least, that is the theroy. The problem with the conditioner is that it is little more than "Stop-Leak", and has been known to seal "leaks" that were actually passages for coolant. Passages that were in the heater core, the radiator, inside the engine, etc. . . Not good. Additionally, this "solution" was only for the SOHC 2.5L engines. For the DOHC engines, you had to replace the headgasket in any case. My recomendation is to have the headgasket work done, and skip the "conditioner" as it can cause a lot more problems than it solves. If your mechanic has done this job before, you should be fine providing that he has correct information on the engine (torque specs, valve clearances, etc). In that he tried to steer you toward an alternate solution, I suspect that he has enough respect for the dificulty of the operation to use the care needed to do it right.

Wow! that is a lot of reaction from what I thought was just a simple post. . . First off, comparing other products that do similar things is not going astray. I have not used those other products (I may have used the B-12), but I have used Seafoam in each of it's methods. 1/3 can will do a lot in the PCV, but not a lot in the oil or tank. in the tank it will be too diluted to do much in the way of cleaning. If you use it in the tank, use a whole can to a half tank of gas, or even a full tank. When I put a wholle can into the crankcase, I drove it for about a hundred miles before changing the oil. This is on a car with 150K on it at the time. What Seafoam does is clean off a lot of the varnish, which builds up around the seals. Because the seals themselves are old, and deteriorated, this causes leakiage sometimes, as the varnish buildup was what was actually sealing the engine. Does this mean that Seafoam is a bad thing in the crankcase? No. It means that you needed to replace the seals anyway. If you put Seafoam in your crankcase, and it leaks, that is all it means. The preceding is my opinion. No scientific studies were performed in the forming of these opinions. If scientific evidence can be provided to refute these opinions, I would like to see it.

Nipper, you may also want to check the adjustment on the TPS. The TCU and ECU may be confused by strange signals and take a sec to sort them out. Hope your back gets better soon!

Oh, I'd say. . . every 50K miles or so. Less if you use good gas (100K miles at that point). Really, it is best done when you just get the car and are unsure what has been used for fuel, how the car was driven, and so forth. If you notice that your power dropps of a bit, try it then. I would not use it more frequently than every 50K miles, though. Not enough benefit from it at that point. I have used Seafoam in the oil, in the intake, and in the gas. I left it in the oil quite a while too. . . All I can say on that point is that the engine I did that to is getting 25~26MPG mixed driving, and has more power than the clutch can keep up with. Only do drastic things like that once, though. It is not needed more than that. I did that to be sure that my HLAs were not sticking, and there was no varnishing inside my engine. that was also 50K miles ago, and I'm coming up on a 200K mile teardown of the top end at least. (well the least will be the valve train, oil pump, new seals, and TB)

I'd guess that we (my boss and I) have spent at least three times what a97obw has with Jason. I'm leerey of working with any other parts person. Jason is that good!

Firstwagon, how close are you to Seattle? also Autoxone.com may be able to ship it to you (I don't know for sure on that) What I did was remove the line that goes in fron of the Throttle Body, from the area of the Solenoid Control Valve, then with the engine running, I connected a spare vac hose to that spot, and stuck the other end into the open can of SeaFoam. Used just enough throttle to keep the engine running at just over idle (the engine sounds like it is struggling a bit at this point. You want to keep the engine running, but just). When the whole can had been sucked into the intake, I reattached the vac line and let it idle for a minute or two, then rev the piss out of it to clear most of the loosened crap out. . . Sorry I took so long to reply to this thread, I've been tearing into a 15 3/4 valve Legacy engine. (I know they never made an engine with 15 3/4 valves. New exaust valve is on order. . .)

OK, I got a 90 Legacy wagon for the ex-wife so she would have safe reliable transportation to cart our daughter around. Tranny is good, and I'm adding a few upgrades to it to make it better for her (LS seats, alloy wheels, LS rear swaybar. . .) We intend for this car to be a long lasting addition to the family. The engine has a "whistling" on #3 (also low compression there), so I plan on pulling the heads to see what's up. I have the engine out of the car, and on a stand, in her garage. I drained the oil prepatory to opening it up, and found metal flakes in the oil. OK, I know this is not a good sign, and that the lower end is probably toast. I expect to be getting annother engine to toss in there fairly soon. What I want to know is this: In that I'm not hearing any rod knock, how much longer can I expect this engine to last her? It has 198K on it now. Is it even worth putting any time into getting this one on the road? (if I can get 20-30K more out of the engine, I call that worth it, BTW). I have no history on the car either, other than it was an auction car, and I got it cheap. When I got it, half of the knobs ans switches from the center console were missing, as well as the corner lights. In addition, the tires are really worn, but I have nearly new ones on the alloys that I'm giving her. Sounds like this car has been poorly maintained, and perhaps the engine can be brought back to life (or even given a decent chance of it) given some TLC. Drivetrain and body are expected to last a good long time, as she does not beat on her cars, and I'll be giving them a bit of TLC before she gets the car. The engine is what worries me. I have drained hundreds of gallons of oil from Subie engines and have never found flakes in the pan before. But I also do not hear any bottom end knocking, which I would expect. the metal was fairly small, like the flakes you get in metalic paint. Perhaps it was caught in time? TIA for your opinions!!

We had in the shop a 92 Legacy LS wagon that we plan on getting the engine out of to transplant into a Vanagon (and I get the rest of the parts for Emily!) Did a compression check after warming the engine up 145 everywhere. Ran a can of seafoam through it and the compression went up to 175 everywhere. I'd say that is fairly valid proof that Seafoam works. . .

You guys owe me a new keyboard. I just spit coffee all over this one. . .

The blend door is electricly acuated. Details on how to remove the control can be found in the Haynes Manual, available at Autozone.