hklaine

I am running a set (from Daniel Stern) of Narva Gold H3 fog bulbs with the Narva H4 55/100 headlight bulbs. I am very happy with this setup, and all four bulbs were cheaper than (2) PIAA's. I am also running a set of relays for power, but that's a different project that you can also read about on Daniel's site. -Heikki

Wow these are sweet! Now why couldn't something like this have been available for the past 8 years? (sold my last 4-bolt car last year) :-\ These are way cooler than the pug wheels! OK, sorry for the interruption. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming. -Heikki

No. Old: 4x??? New: 5x100 Assuming that by "old" you mean the cars with the wide 4-bolt pattern - ? -Heikki

I haven't owned an AT since my '90 but that car had an AT drain plug. Is this no longer installed in the Subaru AT's? -Heikki

My car also has a small bleed screw on the top of the radiator (passenger side). -Heikki

High Elevation is just the opposite for turbos... First take into account the lower atmospheric pressure, this immediately leads to a loss in pressure everywhere. Everywhere includes the turbo. You can count on 3+ psi loss in most high elevations. The simple solution, install a bigger turbo right? Well not really. This will only increase lag. Consider that at higher altitudes the air is thinner, so you are already looking at increased lag (500+ RPM increases in spool-up). Also, thinner air is not nearly as efficent for the intercooler, simply because there is less of it. Keep your turbo at sea level High performance from a turbo at high elevation is a losing battle from all angles. -Heikki

Should be 5x100, but not sure of the offset on your car. As for the text, I believe it's 350 posts or a donation. Someone might be able to correct me on that. -Heikki

Never done this, but have often heard of the dental floss (or fishing line) trick. -Heikki

That would have to be $40k+ in gas ... if it was in the US! So what did it cost him at Swedish gas prices? -Heikki

If the results are that bad even this might not work. And with 17 - 19 mpg fixing the problem may pay off with a few more tanks of gas ;-) -Heikki

A friend of mine had these same symptoms with his '96 EJ22 Legacy. He replaced the sensor, car runs a bit smoother under acceleration and no more CEL. I wouldn't rule out the sensor, in fact I agree, replace it. -Heikki

OT: 1990 Acura Legend Coupe L 5-speed Now that's a fine car. I really like those.

I have been running RedLine 75W90NS with great results! I have this GL-5 oil in my transaxle as well as (non-LSD) rear. This oil also comes recomended by Cobb. I also run the RedLine DT4 ATF in the 5MT of my SHO (calls for ATF) and the shifts are great! Take a look at their site (www.redlineoil.com) for the full product line and descriptions. When shopping for an oil keep in mind: Viscosity Range (mfr. suggested based on environmental temp range) Oil Temperature Range Fluid Type (i.e. GL-X) Syncro Compatibility -Heikki

Cool. I am also running an old basic NAVI (Becker Traffic Pro), but may be upgrading to a newER old unit, a Chrysler CrossFire NAVI. It's similar but a bit faster with newer map information. -Heikki

Where in Denmark are you? I was really wanting to visit Denmark two weeks ago when I was in Hamburg but didn't have a chance. Never been to Denmark... -Heikki

What kind of NAVI did you install? -Heikki

I don't know how similar our cars are, but mine had this wire on the back of the Instrument Cluster. If I remember correctly the wire is on the left side, part of a connnector with 2 or 3 wires - ? I apologize for the lack of detail but it was some time ago that I installed mine. -Heikki

Yes, behind the passenger headlight. If you install some aftermarket, or higher output, horns you may consider wiring them with a relay instead of directly to the stock wiring (comparably weak to the stock horns). I did this and installed some SuperTones. They sound great! Do a search on the forum and you will find PLENTY of horn talk. -Heikki

Are we talking about the "VALVE COVER GASKETS" or the "CAM SEALS"? The only other seals I can think of that may be allowing oil to leak onto the timing belt are the timing belt cover seals, but I don't think that these are in question. Besides, if these are leaking oil onto the belt you should stop the oil leak at the source. I think I may be a bit confused. If the leak in question is from the valve cover gaskets then a. It doesn't make sense to mess with the timing belt at the same time b. The leak is not all that likely to wet the timing belt. c. The repair is simple. If the leak is from the cam seals. a. You should definitely do a few other jobs while replacing the seal (crank seal, oil pump reseal, water pump, timing belt, etc...) b. The leak could wet the timing belt. c. The repair is an involved process. Both of these leaks are common ;-) and if they aren't excessive then I would imagine you can delay their repairs. If it's the valve cover gasket and you do your own work you may as well replace it, only takes a few minutes. The tranny mount (at least with the 5MT) is a simple job as mentioned and can't hurt. Hope this helps and/or makes sense. -Heikki

Knock Sensor Location

I think that the rated towing capacity (of my '96 EJ22 5MT) is 1000 lb. Was '97 the slightly different (interference) EJ22? If so, maybe it is rated a bit higher. -Heikki

I don't know about a swap with the GT. I would imagine that new OEM parts would be quite expensive - ? As for aftermarket, there is plenty out there. I put KYB GR-2 shocks in my car (still on stock springs) and this made a world of difference in handling without making the ride too stiff. (~$250/set). Take a look around, and I am sure you will find some options. PDM racing has a few on their site here, but there are other vendors as well. -Heikki

I stole this from somewhere a while back. Credit to whoever put it together. If you have EJ25 maybe its similar - (?) Some quick notes and pictures on how to replace the knock sensor on a 1995 Subaru Legacy Outback (2.2 liter EJ22 engine). Click images to enlarge. The engine - not very clean! New knock sensor. Move the throttle body intake pipe out of the way. Sensor location is on the driver's side rear close to the throttle body. Arrow points to it. Remove the sensor with an extension and 12mm socket. Old sensor removed. Install the new sensor. Torque the bolt to 16ft-lbs. Clear the engine code (if present) using some sort of OBD scan-tool.

If it makes you feel any better they probably only use the low range when they absolutely have to at ~$6 USD/Gallon for gas ;-) 3.79 L/Gal * 1.20 Euro/L * 1.31 USD/Euro = $5.95 USD/Gal <--- Rough Numbers And yes, I realize this number is a bit inflated due to the fact that the USD ain't worth $hit at the moment. However, it's been that way for a while. I saw my first Euro Legacy yesterday (In Germany). It was an Auto, so I don't know if it had D/R, but it had a screen in the dash. Is Navi available in Europe? I know it is offered in Japan. -Heikki PIC 1 PIC 2

Maybe take a look here. I am not familiar with the new Subaru radios but this was one of the top 5 query results in a Google search and may be a start or solution. -Heikki