luko

I have a 2001 legacy that has a clean under body and no rust on the front fenders and just a little on the passenger side rear quarter fender, but the windshield side of the hood is all rotted out

Almost has to be axle splines. Transmissions just don't work fine one second then not work at all.. splines do that (spoob the bed all at once) another thing, if the speedometer is working the tranny, viscus clutch and all of the is working fine... start checking axle splines at both the wheel hub end and the differential sides

Okay so here is my question, I have a 2001 Lego 5 speed with 125,xxx miles on her, and Is there any difference between O2 sensors for the automatic and manual? On Subaru Parts For You it lists that there are two different O2 sensors as seen here: http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Sensor%2C+Oxygen&year=2001 I just wanted to know of this was true or not because my car has the dreaded P0420 code and I have done everything to get if off such as running NGK spark plugs, OEM Beck Arnely wires, OEM coil pack when the original one went bad, new air filter, fuel filter, intake gaskets, head gaskets, and I already did a timing belt kit on it when it hit that interval including thermostat (used the proper one, not the ordinary one) water pump, and I'm running good 89 octane gas threw her. So the only thing left is to change the front O2 sensor and I have a used one that was good out of a 2000 outback but it was an automatic so I'm not sure if they would interchange. I'm going to try the seafoam trick tomorrow to see what that does. My New York state inspection is up in a couple of months and it needs to pass the OBII check being 1996 and newer...good ol' NYS!!!

Run a voltage drop test from the connector on top of the sending unit with it plugged on to the sending unit to the relay with the key on. The DVOM should read 0 or no more than 1 volt at the very most

I run the Gates kit one one my Subaru's, They are only about $165 from Rock auto for the whole kit- Belt, tensioner, water pump, pulley's and the belt spacer tool

Use Ni-Cad brake lines. It only comes in 25ft rolls and is a little more than conventional brake line bust it doesn't rust or corrode and bends easily by hand and flares easy too. The best stuff ever!!! it is a combination of copper and nickel

Check the connections on top of the sending unit

Does anyone know where I could get a set of head gaskets for my (EJ253) 01' lego with the 2.5 SOHC, But I want to get a set of head gaskets for the turbo'd 2.5 and need to find a place to get them that would my 01' lego

Did you try to clean and put some dielectric grease on the connectors? I now remember my 01' lego pulled the same thing once before and that fixed to problem with mine. Too much resistance in the system causing a high reading on the gauge

If you had ran different size or brand tire tires, or even tires with incredibly different tread wear, or tried to tow it the car it hay have messed up the viscus clutch which allow your front tires turn at a different speed than the rears when turning could be bad. The dark fluid in the tranny could be from that viscus clutch if it burnt out and leaked (because even though it is located within the tranny it is a sealed unit with special silicone oil in it) Unfortunately viscus clutch's are very expensive to buy new and cannot be rebuilt, but if you find a used one that would be the route to go. If it is the viscus clutch it would be just a matter of time before the wheels lock up on you

Has to be some sort of a sensor with it only happening when it warms up or in closed loop operation. Like MilesFox said it could be the MAF

Pull the sending unit and test it, there should be a spec sheet on the sending unit on it giving an ohm spec and where the float is. If that checks out to be all okay and within specs check the resistance of the sending unit wiring harness, there should be little to no resistance through the wires. Another spot to check would be the connector for corrosion

Just how tight is the belt though? like how much play is in it? There is also a torque spec for it as well

Also are your cooling fans kicking on?? if not follow wires and check the two 20 amp fuses under the hood

Make sure it is a OEM subaru thermostat or it will not work, another thing to check for is to make sure you fill the system and that all of the air bubbles are out of the system...Are your radiator and/or AC condenser fins plugged, if so take a garden hose and with little pressure clean them out

About to pull the engine and tranny out of my project 01' lego. The engine is shot in here so I'm going to pull that and the tranny out since it has 165,xxx miles on her and just rebuild them both at the same time, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a good cheap basic tranny rebuild kit with just the seals and gasket and a cheap engine rebuild master kit. Thanks!

I've seen cars before where the fuel filter is in the tank on the end of the pump and the filter being non-serviceable or never having a change interval on it. Don't know for sure on the newer scoobs though

Thanks!

Just replace the hose that runs to the overflow jug to the radiator (it's cheap) and replace the radiator car as well (that's cheap too)... What are you running for an air filter? and what type of gas do you use? I run a cold air filter and high octane non-ethanol fuel in my 01' Lego just to keep her cleaned out and because of that it increases the engine temp just enough to run a little coolant into the overflow jug, But I don't care it's worth it and it's not bad if i check it once a week, but I also put close to 1,000 miles on the one a week. But I know that is the prob for sure on mine because the head gaskets were redone, the water pump, thermostat and the cap also flushing the system out regularly. But If you run a cold air and/or high octane fuel in a non-turbo scoob that may be the cause..The bubbles are throwing me off though.... Good Luck!

Check the wires and the connectors for resistance with an ohm meter and try to apply dio-electric grease to the connectors after cleaning them (if needed) The should be 0 ohms or really close to 0 through the connectors and wires (remember do this with the car off and no power flowing through the system!)

Try to put a Vacuum pump on the hose and the cruise control unit and test it, then if it leaks go from the vacuum pump straight to the cruise control unit just to make sure it is not the new hose for some reason

Any good ideas on how to make a good snorkel for my 01' lego? pics would be great too!!

Bosch Platinum +4 plugs work great! But yeah make sure you either test your plug wires with an ohm meter or just replace them

I just put an exedy in my 2001 lego sedan which is a daily about 4,000 miles ago and it's not bad for a daily driver, but that's about it

I have two 2001 white legacy sedans and love them both. One an auto and other a 5 speed. I did overheat the auto one and bent a rod and just about blew her up but going to rebuild her soon. The 5 speed I put about 1,000 miles on a week. Just keep up on regular maintenance and use synthetic oils!!