matt167

6 speed requires deep pockets. 5spd turbo requires less deep pockets. The easiest/ best way currently is to use a complete JDM V5/6 EJ205 ( plug wire engine ) setup, the 4.44 turbo 5spd runs around $500 and the engine at $1,100 complete or so. Complete units are good for $1400 or so from an importer.. Contrary to popular belief, you can install those engines without too much issue/ wiring. The crank trigger patterns are the same 6/7, the idle air control, and TPS are identical also. You can take your SOHC engine wiring harness and put it on the EJ205, plug it in and then use Project Lambda to tune it to run. There are slight issues like changing the MAP/ IAT unit to seperate units but it all works with project lambda.

I daily a '92 Suzuki Carry.. Subaru EJ boxer would fit in the stock location with some help. I have a fresh JDM Ej205 that I can't use anymore and can't seem to sell and I've thought about it Subaru did put the supercharged EN07 into the vans, and the Vivio RXR ( Kei class WRX STI basically ) had a higher output version.

Way too much work, for nothing. Terryjr on RS25 is building a tube frame buggy that idea's could be adapted to something like this but it's a lot... Really the biggest hurdle is the wheels being so far forward on a Z car, there would be no place for the engine 'out front' like that and if you did get it to work, it would not handle at all.. The only way to AWD a car like that is with a setup like the Skyline Atessa system where it has an AWD transfer case and a front differential.. Skyline- Z car swaps have been done as such it is actually possible.

Yeah, and there was a shop near me that did this. Rented their space at night and worked on customer cars during the day. Midnight garage or something like that.. Closed up completly in short time

I've had straight arguments about the head bolt thing with supposed Subaru professionals, WRX heads and other various people. But it is in the manuals in the head bolt torque section where they can be reused.

Very common thought by many is they are tty, but they are not..

It was dark when I looked at it so that's how I missed the carnage

Update. Valve spring went through the valve cover. So dropped valve for sure. Wonder what let go first but an obvious defect. They still have yet to process warranty.

This is all true, but I bet it has an electronic rust preventer. They produce enough ripple that a Midtronics battery tester sometimes detects noise, and I've had several reports and claims from batteries I sell linked to no starts after sitting, and those systems are in place. Dealers love to install them because it's quite a bit extra and they cost very little to buy

Yes

I'll make it easy. U haul won't rent anything bigger then the little luggage trailer to you.. If you need more, they won't do it, and because of their liabilities, THEY have to make the hitch to your vehicle. At least that is how it has worked the multiple times Ive used them

I said cam follower, because that is what I was thinking, but I looked again and it was the rockers fallen right off. http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/64386-fb20-failure-follow-up.html What's weird is that while it is just under 1 quart low it was within the 7,500 mile oil change interval SOA requires but is just past due her normal scheduled by a few hundred miles. This engine has never used oil so the fact it's now 1qt low is suspicious, but it wasn't run out of oil for sure

I didn't test anything. you can hear that it had lost compression on 1 cylinder from how it was turning over, and the fact that when running it had a skip. Something pretty bad has gone wrong internally.. Since it's under warranty I did not want them to void it for any reason, and had her call them and have it towed.. I found a thread on the XV forums about a Crosstrek's FB20 having cam followers dropping out causing all sorts of carnage with the camshafts and I'm pretty positive that's what happened.. And by laboring on the up stroke, you can hear it skip compression on a cylinder, then right after that it's laboring like something is seriously binding inside.. I wish I could check but it's up to the service department.. 6k more and it woulda been SOL, so it's good it happened now.

4.44 rear diff and transmission... JDM Turbo Forester pretty much any year to '07 or USDM Forester XT up to 2008 IIRC for the trans. Diff fits also, but will be costly and there are cheaper options for the diff Cheapest way to get this setup is, JDM 4.44 5spd that is not price gouged. Will cost less than $500. 4.44 rear diff from a wrecking yard Legacy Outback or Forester automatic which shouldn't cost over $100. You'll need to make the slave cylinder work since the turbo trans are all hydraulic but you should be able to. Cable conversion might be possible, I do not know

yup. it sits too long. The electronics used in ANY modern car draw off the battery when not in use. Namely the anti theft system is always active.. Also, a blinking light rust prevention system which dealers commonly sell draws quite a bit, see those on lots of Subie's do you have one? You couple this with the factory Panasonic battery which has a very low AH rating and it's not surprising. The keys can also 'talk' to a car if too close ( which every manufacture is effected ) Solution isn't another vehicle. get a $10 battery maintainer

My mom let me know her '16 Crosstrek was running like crap when she started it one morning and had a repetitive chirping noise from the engine.. I looked at it and could not even get it started. Compression lost on at least one cylinder and the starter was laboring on the up stroke. Had enough oil in it. Told her to call dealer and have it towed.. Pretty sure some of the valve train came apart, read a couple complaints of cam followers dropping out and causing a mess on #4. Either way it's at the dealer, and for sure under warranty although they are not admitting anything yet ( they are looking at it when they open Monday )

Yup.. They are tires that I sell. No treadwear warranty only a defect warranty ( 99% of snow tires ). The defect warranty is 1yr or 25% of the treadwear, so your expired on both. That said, snow tires run on mostly dry pavement and warm temps will do that. See it on 90% of them that come back for dismount at the end of the season.. There is no way to cover a snow tire better than that due to their tread compound and variable temps.

Subaru licensed the Boxer design from Volkswagen/ Porsche. That's about where the similarities end

1999 has an EJ253. It is Phase 2 but uses a MAF sensor. 251 came in 2000 and uses a MAP sensor.. 251 and the early 251 are basically mechanically the same

There actually are different timing belt widths on some years for some variations between auto/ manual. I have never encountered it but remember discussions about it on here.. You can use a vice that's not mounted sure. It's not a big deal. Count the belt coming off if you want. Count the belt going on for sure. There's a 90% chance marks are right but you want to make sure

Depends on how much you like valve jobs and bent valves.. It's not difficult and is only good for 105 months or 105k miles as far as Subaru rated

Find out by looking at local cars if the inspection sticker says " Metro " They use a Dyno/ sniffer test in Metro inspection stations.. LI may or may not be. Part of Suffolk county is exempt if I remember right.. If you can prove $450 spent in correcting issues After you fail an inspection, you can get a waiver for the year. But it's not a permanent exemption

Will you need a Metro inspection, or can you get away with a regular inspection? Metro inspection is very similar to California and I fear you may not get it good enough to pass without a lot of work/ expense. I don't know where LI falls but NYC needs/ is where the Metro designation originated

Blew the piston

If you heard a bad noise, and then later you have fluid leaking. Likely it NEEDED brakes but you blew the caliper piston or wheel cylinder apart on that side. More common on drums but it can happen with discs depending on how bad the rotors have been cut from driving metal on metal