matt167

Well, a 2.2 in a forester isn't factory correct and the fact that everything fits means and parts books are often wrong. just don't get detailed. Make it work... You can use whatever coil you want for a 1995-1998 ej20-25 electrically. Possibly even older. You just need to swap connectors. Beyond that coils wont work.. The connector that clips onto the coil started in 1997. I dont know which year your looking at but it all seems plausible.

The 2.5 uses a different coil. But they are electrically the same. Dont sweat it much. It works. Coils after 1998 except legacy outback and GT models do not use an ignitor and the coils are electrically different.

I agree. 165/80/13 or 165/70/13 both will be 'about' the correct size for your car. Both still have name brands available. 165/65 13" might also work.

EBay. But dealers have to do the reset for extra keys

Had same issue twice. Burned connector on a 2001 Forester. Replace connector with an auto parts store connector and all fine

I think you can use a Link ECU or, a piggy back like Greddy Emanage. Factory ECU cannot be tuned

Automatic Forester is 4.44 geared in the USA with a 2.5L. Pretty sure the automatic 2.0L JDM Forester is also 4.44 geared. But they live at speeds no higher than 100 km/h.

If it uses the ABS/ CAN bus system then there will be a reset button somewhere. Have not touched a '17 yet

Project Lambda is the only one that will work with your car.

You can put stock injectors back in and then run a 12:1 RRFPR, but you won't want to run 10 PSI. 6-8 PSI will be stable... Without tuning you won't be able to run anything other than stock injectors which are 280cc

Tons of NA-T Subaru's running around on moderate boost with factory compression. ( 10 PSI is pushing it ) ECU's before 2003 don't fight it too much.. RS-25 and NASIOC are 2 good places to get info.. As for ECU tuning, Project Lambda tuning will tune the factory ECU if it is a JECS Ecu. Won't work for a Denso but that should be JECS anyway

Exhaust gas detection does not work well with most Subaru. They can pass and be bad

that's an actuator or lever that locks what would be the center diff on an AWD car pretty sure ( have not been around an EA in years ). That's how it worked on the old 4x4 EA cars. The AWD Automatics use a solenoid to operate a clutch. Provide constant 12v to the solenoid or cut the power makes it 4x4 or fwd depending... The manuals just use a viscous coupling in the center differential. You could have a machinist make a mechanical disconnect/ sliding mechanism but it would be expensive.

Megajolt I think is derived from mega squirt I think using only the ignition portion and their custom software. In the case of MS, the wheel that works is 36-2-2-2 but it works fine with the right settings. If you look up the crank sprocket for a 2004 USDM WRX then you'll get the right part. It was used in many others dating back to as early as 1999

personally, I'd use the ignition portion of a Megasquirt 2/ Microsquirt to run the DIS setup. Just use a 36 tooth crank sprocket and sensor from a later EJ. That's all MS needs to run ignition only

Most states that do a plug in test allow one system not ready. A CEL is illuminated after the system test fails twice. If it fails only once it goes into a pending code and that system is set to system not ready.. So if that is the only system not ready it is ready for emissions testing.. The system ready/ emissions ready is programmed into the ECU

The hatch was somewhat in demand when Subaru discontinued it. Now the demand has exploded. $22-$25k is probably where it will end up.. Individual markets do not matter. Those looking for Hatches and good WRX or any performce cars really, do not look only local.

Pliers. Don't get a good grip, but enough grip unless gorilla put it on.. Lot of times I just grab it If you want a cap wrench it's 68mm

Walmart value line is 500cca for $50. They work fine, and as for your battery it likely has a weak cell. These engines only need about 400 amps or so to spin them over reliably. The factory supplied Panasonic batteries are around that

Most people who do the EJ20 just stick them in with a new Tbelt and forget it. They actually have decent head gaskets.. These engines are interference, always change the timing belt

They are both 4.11 5spds and would be a near direct swap. Speed sensors in the trans probably need changed. Center diff is likely the issue and they can be replaced for about $600

That is the positive feed to the battery. The other end bolts on to the battery cable near the battery. Run a new cable from where it bolts up. It's damaged, draws too much current and burns up.. You can use lawnmower battery cable as a quick and easy fix. Sold everywhere including Walmart and is has ends you can use on it for both ends

Distributor cam lube ( point lube ) or lubriplate will work just fine inside any distributor

wasn't there a TSB on belt differences? IIRC one is just a little different than the other, but would 'fit' otherwise?

switch the pin on the ECU so that it turns off the TCU. Then you'll just have to convert the wiring to M/T and it'll run. Swap the pedals and console, rear differential and that pretty much makes it up.. Cruise probably will not work, or not correctly Swapping a '98 Foz is one year only phase 1, and the swap is basically same as any phase 1 car