matt167

you can go back to the dealer to flash the correct vin.

18mm spark plug chaser

Fuel pressure regulator. Cheap and easy

Well, dealer called and said ' a belt ' was making noise and that they had compared the noise to another similar car and all was well but replaced the belt.. Go to pick the car up and there is no paperwork, just keys. That's weird. Demand paperwork from the guy and he prints out the previous work order thinking I'm that dumb and wouldn't notice.. Tell him nice try, and then he points to an amendment at the very bottom as a B+ that says my mom stated a belt was making noise and they replaced it, but didn't actually show a part number or proof it was replaced ( but the serpentine belt is new ) I told her just to accept the car and she wasn't getting any farther with the dealer. On the drive home, car was whisper quiet, so I knew they did 'something' but a serpentine belt wouldn't make the noise it was. A mechanical noise from within the valve cover does not come from a belt.. But mostly home, the noise had returned.. So she's just going to lemon law the car. I'll talk her into an older used car that I can fix if needed. She'll end up way ontop. 2008 Forester or something similar

It actually does not take much to total a brand new vehicle or nearly brand new anymore. Parts are so expensive that hitting a deer can total a vehicle.

Yeah, she's had a couple different 2017-2018 Foresters through their rental program. But it was picked up by a tow truck on the 25th of Feb. She had her car back for 2 days after the valve started rapping the first time, cause she couldn't make it back till then

Me too. Patiently waiting for them to figure something out. So far its silence from them.

They did all that and installed brand new heads and everything except cams the first time in. Then when it went back for valve rapping they found the intake cam scored and just replaced it. Pretty obvious technician error right there. He either missed it, ignored it or assembled it wrong. She told them if they don't just replace the long block at this point, she will pursue lemon law. Needless to say they are at least being very nice.

Yup, that's what reconstructed title means. That means legally they did not build it so warranty is void. They will at least see the ins total, so yeah. No warranty

There actually sending a driver this time to pick it up, after barking at the GM, and drop off a rental... But 3x times in the shop for same problem = open shut lemon law in NYS, if she ends up pursuing it

If it's push clutch its a turbo trans. If its from a wrx there's a larger problem because it has a 1.1:1 center diff and has split ratios and you would need wrx rear diff too

Well, dealer was done with it. work order states camshaft was gouged ( so that would be technician error ), so they R&R'd the intake camshaft... STILL making noise. Service dept was actually closed with only one of the young ladies there to get the keys, so everyone there would be barking up the wrong tree... Bottom line is I'm thinking the only sensible repair is a new complete long block. who knows how bad metal filings got in the bearings. I know being in the valve cover it's probably not a problem but it could be. Either that or it's a pretty solid lemon law case for the state of NY

2002 impreza flywheel and clutch assembly

Some of the aftermarket publications suggest tty as well, but it's incorrect. It is right in the factory manuals. If someone happened to use aftermarket bolts though. Id probably replace those

Toyota uses the same Panasonic batteries FWIW. Even use group 35 depending on models. Yeah there cheap.

Yeah, most of the WRX suspension is comparable to it's direct Impreza variant, so Sedan for Sedan, and wagon for wagon. You can use GC8 arms with a spacer if you change swaybar and endlinks.

Same here.. However, I would look for another block that has not been cooked at all. '97 LOB 25D has small bearings and depending how hot it has actually gotten, it may or may not start knocking once the gaskets are in and it's driven hard. A coworker of mine has a '96 Legacy Brighton. and the head gaskets blew causing the car to overheat. I knew the gaskets were blown but he tried a number of things which resulted in the engine getting hot a few times. I told him to start with another engine, instead did gaskets in car. Now car does run fine except it has a bit of rod knock, and he's searching for engine options, yet again.

Nope not legal or safe. Regular Compression fittings are not even rated for the pressures. Some states allow the use of steel compression fittings but they are $$$$. Pull seat, cut, flare and splice new lines. Run them around the tank. Not a big deal and not a lot of money either.

replace the stereo. That particular unit that came in Legacy/ Outback is known to do that. Solder connections break.

I was thinking it probably did but they would have to replace everything that was damaged I would think. With an uncommon faliure, Subaru likely wanted tear down pictures

Dunno. They put a brand new cylinder head with all new parts on it. They did not say exactly what went wrong to cause the valve spring to free itself. Service writer initially said it went through the cover, but the work order said it had gotten mangled in the camshaft and lost compression on #4, which explains the chirping. Getting a brand new cylinder head would suggest a casting defect in the original I would think... Either way, it actually failed again right after she picked it up. 1/2 way home ( 45 min drive ) is when it started ticking, and it was hammering when she dropped it off again. The starter didn't sound quite right from the start but the car was picked up after service hours anyway,

Well, was repaired, now back in the shop.. Starter started grinding on the flywheel and it's got a valve hammering under the cover. Service writer isn't very happy.

Yes, and no. It is rated for GL-4/ GL-5 when used in differentials, but only GL-5 when used in transmissions when you read the fine print on the bottle.. My mini truck has bronze synchro's so it must be GL-4 rated for transmissions, which will be only a GL-4 rating. Anything that has a GL-5 rating will eat yellow metals.

In my old '01 Forester I put in 80W90 Supertech from walmart and it shifted fine. Cheap car got cheap oil, but it worked fine. My Suzuki mini truck I had to track down GL-4 75w90 and $60/ gal Redline was the cheapest

Find the part number and look up on www.partsouq.com. That will be a JDM part and Partsouq is very cheap. Dealer may be able to get it also