GeneralDisorder

Spray through the lines with brake cleaner and compressed air. At least that's how we do it. There are some foaming cleaners they sell for this purpose - sometimes when I buy a JDM trans my supplier will include this for warranty purposes. GD

Usually we just throw away the cork stuff and use straight RTV. Our current favorite libation WRT sealant is ThreeBond 1217H. Nissan has the best price on it here in the US. GD

There's lots of used ones out there but the problem is they are, by and large, NFG at this point. They are aluminium and they pump unfiltered oil so they get chewed up after 100k or so typically. GD

There's a shop near me that had two brand new EA81 short blocks. They wanted $1500 for them. Remember a new EJ short block is $2150 from Subaru. Contrast to a new goodwrench 350 long block at $1495 delivered. 250 HP..... LOL. GD

An EJ22 will not break a normally driven EA drivetrain. They are actually super under-whelming. I thought it was going to be like blasting off at warp 9 the first time I did one. It's not. It's not that much power. It's nice, and driveable, but it's not insane or capable of serious drivetrain harm. 135 HP is not that much really. And some old used one isn't even going to make that. Probably be lucky to hit 120. GD

Have you ever tuned anything on a dyno? Have you melted many engines? I have. I am the engine builder at my shop (I also own the shop) and I am intimately more familiar with Subaru boxer architecture than you manifestly are. This is not a chevy small block and you can't treat it like it is. If it were I would say go ahead and put a 50 shot of N2O on there. Probably won't hurt a thing. Why are you willing to spend $600 on a carb when you could spend that on a Legacy donor and have 135 HP with fuel injection reliability and no massive input of time and effort to pave new roads to nowhere with antique equipment? GD

Ok - find me some intake/exhaust valves, and some SPFI EA82 pistons. Please. We would like to buy some ASAP. GD

Avgas? Really? Do you know how much that junk costs? Holy sticker shock batman. But sure - 141 octane leaded airplane race fuel is the balls. You'll drop off the back of the power curve adding timing before you detonate that stuff. Not even close to a viable EA81 fueling situation. Up the compression and run E98 with a turbo or supercharger. Make tons of power till you twist the crankshaft into a pretzel. You're talking about bringing a thermonuclear ICBM to a fist fight here. Nitrous and Avgas and Superchargers? Listen to youself man.... you sound like a total nutjob. GD

Last one we had (about a year ago) went for $250 to a loyal customer. It was the last one in the country and we were told by Subaru they will not be manufacturing them as they "lost" their supplier of them and Japan said gone forever. Nationwide dealer search turned up nothing. AFAIK the EA81 pump is made by Hitachi and Subaru of Japan still has them produced periodically. I believe the US is out of stock at this moment but they might re-order. The EA81 was made for a lot longer and in larger quantities than the EA82 and was the engine of choice for a lot of other markets besides the US. GD

Low side pressure will be high, and high side pressure will be low - in a de-energized state. Both will usually read around 90-110 psi depending on ambient conditions - but this varies according to the system. You want about 35 psi on the low side, and about 150-175 psi on the high side when running. GD

A speedi sleeve might work but I doubt they have one listed for this application specifically. You can measure it and buy a sleeve almost for sure but I doubt this poster has the tools and experience to measure and order an industrial shaft repair sleeve and make that work. If you do, loctite 609 GD

The only time I've seen this is from a stripped head bolt. We had a car come in that had HG's done by a shady used car dealer and one of the head bolt holes stripped out and oil started pouring from the pressure gallery like that. It's not a simple repair at that point. The head bolt threads are deep in the block and an oddball size so you need special tools to do it. I had to have my set made by a machinist friend. GD

I was about to post that all Legacy auto's from 90 to 98 are the same and there is no auto that only has 7 wires. Looks like you found your mistake there. It should swap - you just need to swap over the cooler lines most likely. Make sure you don't use the torque converter from the old transmission and make sure you flush out the cooler lines and the pipe going through the radiator tank. Some early 90/91 models had a recall done that installed a filter in the fender area near the battery as they were worried about casting flash in the transmissions from production clogging the cooler in the radiator. Make sure you delete this if you have it as it may be clogged due to trans failure and it is unlikely you need to worry about casting flash on a 25 year old replacement used transmission. GD

Pull trans is easier if you have a lift. GD

Pumping them up may help. Cleaning them can't hurt. But ultimately it's usually a combination of issues. Poor oil pressure and old seals at pump, cam carrier, etc. The usual fix is all new seals and shiny new oil pump. That always seemed to cure them. Can't buy oil pumps anymore though so you may have to live with it, if the engine 'lives' with it, that is. GD

Yep I knew it was ignition. Symptoms don't lie.... GD

Just swap the switches. They simply unscrew. This is extremely easy and obvious so you also need a new mechanic with a brain not just the stem. Wait - auto or manual? GD

Replace the belt, sections hose, and o-ring for the suction hose elbow. The dealer has updated silicone o-rings. If that doesn't fix it then get a new pump from the dealer. You'll need the aforementioned items anyway for the new pump. GD

JB weld is amazing stuff for certain applications. It can easily support the load of a Viton lip seal. I have used it to repair gasket surfaces many times. Especially pitted manifolds, and block/head surfaces where coolant has eaten the metal away and filling is really the only viable way to save the part. GD

I know, right? GD

2.2 phase II engines like that are renown for their ability to throw rods. Very common - so much so there are few left. Replace it with a 2.5. GD

We do that job for $2750 including rings. $2940 with a factory 10mm oil pump. You can save money and get a better quality job if you bring it down to Portland and have us do it. That extra 25% cost of living in Seattle is the reason our prices down here are lower. Also no sales tax. GD

What year are you working on? GD

Are you getting any voltage to the window motor? If so does the voltage across the motor change when you actuate the switch? GD

What tools do you have to diagnose with? Meter, test light, etc? GD