GeneralDisorder

The EJ20 will be a lot lower on power. They cannot achieve peak HP because of the limited RPM of the USDM computer and incorrect gearing for their power band. Most people are unsatisfied with their output after some other shop installs one and end up calling me wanting to go back to a 2.5 Yes they are cheap. There's a reason for it - no one wants them. JDM engines DO NOT come with any guarantee of their exact mileage. They just say what the "typical" mileage is. This is marketing and much like the claims of pharmaceutical manufacturers.... "results may vary". I have had good JDM engines and very poor ones. Often the Japanese don't maintain their cars very well either. This has to do with the tendency to replace them every few years. It's not mandatory but licensing fees and taxes on older vehicles are high. The financial incentives to replace older cars are significant, maintenance is expensive so often it is neglected in the knowledge the car will be replaced soon anyway. If you buy one pay for a 2.5 from an importer that will give you a startup guarantee and can supply compression numbers. Before you install it pulls the valve covers - if it looks like a BBQ inside send it back. GD

There are none. You have to split it and generate a parts list to take to the dealer. GD

File the edges of the grooves and put it back in. GD

1/10th that price for contacts from ebay. Our local Subaru dealer sells them (not subaru part numbers). Toyota sells them for their cars. Super easy cheap fix. Buying a starter is wasteful. GD

Dealers carry very little in general. Most parts even from the 90's must come from the warehouse. Find the part number on "parts.subaru.com" and ask them nicely to order the part for you. If you can't find it there ask here. There are people with parts manuals. GD

The control arms are solid aluminum castings. The primary win is "sprung weight" reduction. It's not a heck of a lot though. In the case of the SPT ones they add track width and remove caster making the handling more flat - reducing understeer. GD

DO NOT TOUCH the cylinders. Honing for ring seating is an old wives tale. Lube the rings and skirts with ATF and if you knurl the piston skirts leave them pretty tight. Knock em in with a hammer and run it. After 5,000-10,000 miles they will break in nicely and fuel economy, power, and oil consumption will all be perfect. Run SAE 30 non synthetic for the first 500 miles to seat the new rings. GD

There is no need to do any aftermarket parts on a non turbo. It would not benefit from forged pistons. The gasket you want is the part number ending in 770. They do not leak. Look for NPR brand rings. You can have the pistons knurled or you can buy the new updated pistons from Subaru to stop the piston slap. GD

Throw the oil cooler as far away from your car as strength will allow. They aren't useful. We don't even run them on the turbo's we build. If you run quality synthetic oil the temp will never be an issue. They can hold contamination from a previous engine so in NO CASE should an oil cooler ever be reused. Once they have been on a bad engine they must be discarded due to their permanently welded design. GD

Top hat pattern changed in 95 for Legacy, 02 for Impreza. 90 to 94 Legacy is small pattern, 93 to 01 Impreza is small pattern also. But the rear top hats have an integrated spring perch so 90 to 92 are cone shaped springs, and 93.5 or so are cylinder shaped. If you want to use some of the early STi springs on an early Impreza you need the pre-facelift rear top hats, etc. For example. There's a lot of nuance to it. GD

That's a 9.5:1 engine. Ideal numbers at sea level would be 190 psi. But the number isn't important as much as the difference between highest and lowest. Ideally you want less than 5% difference between high and low. It's most likely low due to valve sealing. Probably needs a valve lap/grind. G

We have had seriously mixed results with these on EJ cars. Mostly not so great results. Too bad China can't seem to make decent axles. GD

Get the cable from the dealer using the VIN. Aftermarket cables are terrible for Subaru's don't go there. GD

Those engines are a can of worms. They have the same bad ring design and drain back issue as the 2.5 but you can't buy rings outside of the Subaru dealer for $200. Despite the catalogs claiming they use the same rings as the older 2.2..... they dont. GD

Subaru sells a set of front lower aluminum arms complete with ball joints and group N bushings under their SPT performance catalog for about $330. These are for the 02 to 07 Impreza. For older cars you have to swap out the front inner bushing because the WRX ones are wider. But the bushing is only $15. We have put these on 90's cars no problem. Just installed a set on a 96 Legacy. The ones you are referring to will only fit the 05+ Legacy and 08+ Impreza. GD

The 2.2 that would fit is the phase II 2.2 made from 99 to 01. Besides being rare and expensive they burn oil worse than the 2.5. Completely different than the phase 1 2.2 which will not fit in your car. GD

For best shifting the only two gear oils we have had success with is Subaru HPGO and Mogul Gear 300. GD

It's probably the center diff which you can access easily without pulling the trans. It's a couple hours. They are $586 and there's no way around that part. Used isn't an option they are all bad and you would have to buy a whole trans. There could be other bearings going out but you will need the center diff most likely anyway so it's probably worth pulling and inspecting and if bad trying a new one before condemning the rest of the trans. GD

Yes those would be a 7 and 9. It is the thickness of the georotor in millimeters. GD

There are multiple part numbers for the 10. Some didn't have the provision for the timing belt guide plate. There are 9's out there too. And 11's, and 12's (Japan). Some 10's are marked with a 10 like the 7 and 9 are marked. 11's are marked "78" and I believe the newer 10's are marked "76". GD

Use parts.subaru.com and lookup a 2003 non turbo. It will be a 7. Then click on the "what this fits" tab and it will tell you all the models that called out a 7. Then lookup a 2006. That will have a 10 because it's an AVLS engine. GD

It may be out of time on the crankshaft keyway. You should replace the sprocket, key, and balancer. Crank sensor is probably seized into the oil pump. You'll probably have to remove the pump to deal with that. 95 does have OBD-II. You can use the normal 96+ scan tool. If you have codes you need to start there. GD

It wouldn't have an IACV if it were DBW. GD

Won't directly fit into an 80 without an 81 GL Brat engine cradle or modifications to the steering linkage. The 1800 wasn't offered in a first gen except the 81 GL Brat. As stated you will need a side starter bell housing transmission as well. The only 5 speed offered with the EA81 is a 2 wheel drive trans. You will need the 4 speed 4WD trans that matches or a 5 speed 4WD from and 85 to 89 but that also requires modifications to driveline, mounting, linkage, etc. It's not as simple as you think or have been led to believe. GD

Did you ask to see its report card? Did it do its chores? Maybe you should talk to its mom. Zombie thread. Shoot it in the face! GD