GeneralDisorder

Yeah used turbo engines = bad day, lost money, etc. Sometimes we get JDM 2.0 liter engines for people on strict budget limitations but that's as used as we go. We get compression numbers on the ones we buy and a look under the valve cover. I'm treated differently by used parts suppliers than the general public also - they want my return business as we buy usually several engines a month for various applications. GD

Don't worry about rust on the inside of the pistons. Subaru has not discontinued caliper repair kits. Not that I know of anyway. Your kit is part number 26297AE00A Pistons are 26235AE000 GD

The temp idiot lights are social engineering. Needed because the consumer is too stupid to understand real engine temp fluctuations between thermostat opening temp and fan set points. Also not needed for the tech as the temp is available in digital format through the diagnostic port using a sub-$50 scanner w/live data. GD

They don't need a filter. Subaru transmissions haven't had a filter for most of their production. Only from about 99 to 07 did the 4 speed auto have a filter. Funny enough the same trans behind the EZ30 6 cylinder didn't have the filter simply because there wasn't room for it. Not needed. GD

Actually the 98 Outback 4EAT is as strong or stronger (updated design too) and 4.44 ratio for better acceleration. I've done a couple swaps with them. GD

Every brand has its problem models and years. Honda and Toyota are no different. You have anecdotal evidence based on owning three whole Subarus. The 95 was just a fluke. That never happens with those. The second one was probably a bad reman or improper install. The 07 had oil leaks. Sure they all do from 99 to 09. We know this. I do two a week at m shop. I would get another opinion on the 14. They aren't know for that. As stated that Odyssey blew a trans on the next guy. You were lucky to get 90k. My neighbor got 60k on his 01 before trans #1 went. The other honda models you have and the yota all have exceptionally good drivetrains unlikely to fail. But it's luck of the draw. The Yota 5VZFE will sometimes lose a head gasket and the K20 in the RSX could blow one as well. It happens on both. Not terribly frequently but as frequently as 95 Legacy trans failure at 60k. I've worked on all those vehicles and a whole lot more - nothing is perfect or guaranteed..... except a Chevy LSx. LoL. GD

You don't need to remove any of that just pull the water pump bolts. GD

Yes but it's never done so no one is going to be able to tell you what thickness HG to use..... That's a terrible idea. The 2.0 isn't that good of an engine. It's open deck, etc. Just rebuild the 2.5 he has or find a used block. It's not that difficult. GD

They aren't expensive from the dealer. Use Amsoil engine assembly lube liberally on the bolt threads and between the bolt head and washer. Use nothing between washer and cylinder head. The bolts are (what appears to be) aluminized and this is an additional anti-friction coating. It helps avoid the creaking. If you clean the bolts, and block threads correctly and use the Amsoil assembly lube you will have zero creaking. If you do it the service manual way and use engine oil you will have nothing but problems. The service manual leaves a LOT to be desired as a build/rebuild guide. It's wrong or incomplete in almost every respect as applies to short block building. That's why dealers don't go that far into them. The success rate with their service department parts hanging monkeys is very low. GD

I wouldn't think so - the rubber cement actually melts the pieces together - like plastic model glue. Make sure the patch extends like 3" out in all directions from the hole. They give you a little tool to scuff the rubber also so I would make sure you rough it up a bit around the patch. GD

You shouldn't have to change the heads either as long as it's a non-AVLS motor. There are some weird California models from '05 that would not work. The pistons are different. If it has drive by wire that's an indication it will not work for your application. There are also some changes that were made to the PCV system around 01/02 IIRC but you can get around it. GD

Yes generally speaking. He mentions aftermarket axles so figured it couldn't hurt to mention the problems those usually have. Might not be his whole issue though. GD

Rubber cement? That's what you patch inner tubes with..... GD

Change your plug wires. If it still comes back pickup a used ignitor and coil pack. GD

Sure. SVX guys do it all the time. They came out in 92. It bolts right up with the right combination of parts. GD

The Lisle (craftsman is the same) impact screwdriver has a 1/2" drive on it. You can adapt this to an Allen socket and get them out that way. You have to use a good snap on allen socket, etc or you will chowder the receptacle. I Usually just use a left hand drill bit - it's faster. Once the thread tension is released they typically back right out. Snap on sells a nice stub length mechanics left hand set of 5 bits that is really excellent. GD

You have to hit them with a punch. Sometimes you just have to drill the heads off with a left hand bit. Those are the dealer replacement screws for the updated metal separator plate. I never use those. I just use regular 10mm hex head bolts. GD

Get factory Subaru front axles for it. Aftermarket are know the cause vibration issues with the 2000 to 2004 models. GD

Exhaust on a 96 is single port. You will need a dual port header to use the 93 engine. GD

Pretty straight forward - just buy a generic kit for it. Check Amazon, etc. Look for good reviews. GD

Yeah the factory cables are the best. GD

Don't solder. Use seamless non-insulted splice connectors and a proper crimper and seal it with 3M heat shrink with sealant. There's a reason that NASA and the Nuclear industry both use mechanical connections for electrical. I use to solder but it takes a lot longer and there's concerns with lead free solder cracking with age, corrosion from the flux, etc. GD

The 7 and 9 aren't big enough. They were attempts at raising fuel economy. I AM a Subaru engine builder and I would get a 10mm for a non turbo application. The 11mm is for the dual AVCS STI turbo engine and the 12mm is only used in Japan on twin turbo models IRRC. 11mm is overkill and unnecessary for an NA application as you don't have dual AVCS and a turbo consuming oil volume. They all put out the same pressure. GD

Not really a concern just a LOT of cleaning on the heads. I recently did the same job on a 2009. Several hours of disassembly and cleaning on the heads. Lots of oil passages on the AVLS models. The block may come with a 7mm or 9mm pump. Since they are reman units that carry a 3 year/36k warranty we don't touch them. Just recommend 10w40 and full synthetic going forward. GD

Very few parts interchange. Some gaskets, the crankshaft, rods, and bearings (though none are worth having if you are in that far).... that's about it. The turbo specific plumbing parts that are plastic and rubber will all be shot and you can't buy the majority of them anymore. Which means you have to replace with custom made stainless tubing and silicone couplers if you want it any kind of right and have close to the factory tight bends, etc. VF11 turbos are pretty tough to find in good shape so you'll likely end up getting a TD04 from a WRX which requires plumbing changes and tuning which the only viable option for currently is ESL in the UK. A complete ESL setup with JDM EJ20G ECU to run it is around $1000 plus whatever you pay for the laptop to interface it and then you have to find a tuner that's willing to learn a completely new tuning environment just for you since he will likely never do another one..... a turbocharger upgrade will run typically into the thousands because everything is custom and very few people build these cars. That's just one of many paths that owners of these cars typically go down. I should know - I've had a 91 SS for about 10 years. GD