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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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You can get remanufactured axles from Subaru. $193 each. No one replaces joints and boots anymore. It's not economically feasible. Lookup the prices of the components - it's ridiculous. GD
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Screw that 20 weight fuel economy garbage. Amsoil 10w40 premium protection. It won't hurt a thing. Might eventually wreck the converters but probably not for 100k or so at least. 20 weight is for fuel economy only. There is no design choices in the inside of the engine that requires this thin of an oil. The turbo models of the FB spec 10w30 just like the EJ's. And take it from an engine builder there isn't any difference in the tolerances inside the FB than any other Subaru aluminum block engine. If there were, they would be locked up when cold like a NASCAR engine that hasn't been pre-heated (those really do require 20 weight, after a 4 hour pre-heat to enlarge bearing clearance to running spec). GD
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1980 BRAT no spark will crank
GeneralDisorder replied to Divisible_By_0's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sounds like your coil is good. I would see about picking up a later model distributor (from an EA81) and matching coil. They don't require that transistor module. GD- 10 replies
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- engine wont start
- no start
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ea82 build thread
GeneralDisorder replied to crazyhorse001's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Heh. How little ye know. The HG problems have all been solved. EA82 is a dead, dead, dead platform. Subaru ensured that by discontinuing the oil pump for it. Good riddance to rubbish. GD -
best place to purchase weber conversion?
GeneralDisorder replied to Bratastick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
We can set you up if you want to call the shop or PM me. I can recommend jetting, etc. The factory DGEV jetting is quite good for the EA engines. Typically the EA82's want a 60 or 65 idle jet in place of the 50. If you have SPFI pistons then an even larger idle jet may be required. The rest of the jetting will be just fine. GD -
Sorry man but if you split that engine and went down to the rod bearings and "checked it out"..... Just stop and get another engine or another car. This isn't an engine you can do that with. It's clear from your posts that you have no business inside an engine let alone an aluminium block close tolerance engine like the Subaru boxer. It's probably already trashed but if it's not it soon will be. Cut your losses and get a used running engine. You don't have the skills to be doing this and you have already caused severe damage that is going to require a line hone, rebore, new crank, pistons, and rings..... at a minimum. I have been doing this a long time now and I can tell you that anyone that tries to do a "home rebuild" WILL fail at least the first few times. This is a very steep learning curve with these motors and there is no literature or manuals out there on how to do it. It's not a small block chevy that you can just buy a book or watch a youtube on how to rebuild. The secrets of the process are hard earned and those of us that do this on a regular basis aren't giving that info away for free nor do we have much time to give classes on how to do it. GD
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ea82 build thread
GeneralDisorder replied to crazyhorse001's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Unless you already have an oil pump on hand they are discontinued and no longer available. Rather than flush a bunch of money straight down the drain - do an EJ swap to an EJ22 or an EJ25 with EJ22 heads and have some real power and parts availability 110 HP on an NA EA82.... probably not with the MPFI because there is no tuning solution to adjust the fuel and timing for your cams. Possibly with a big enough carb. High comp EJ25 will put out about 190 HP..... that's a RELIABLE 190 HP. And you can buy parts for it. GD -
Well GL-10 badging preceeded the first 83 turbo models and often the EA81 turbo was available both as a GL or a GL-10. The later having a digi-dash and the former analog from what I've seen. The badging is very year sensitive so you can only say that it's generally a higher level of trim package but what exactly that meant for a given year of a given body style is highly irregular. GD
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It changed every year. GL-10 does not necessarily mean turbo. They are trim designations and they proceed STD, DL, GL, GL-5, GL-10, etc from lowest trim to highest trim. Back in the early 80's there were also Dl-5's, and some other weird badges. You can't make an exact list of features based on badging. Generally you don't get a tach till you hit GL models. That's about the only consistent feature. GD
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Throw away the factory carb setup and get a Weber. GD
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The engine locked up and you put in new rings? Stop right there and explain yourself in more detail. I think that most probably belt timing is your least concern. Subaru's don't lock up because of rings. If they are going to stop turning it's going to be a bottom end (rod bearing) problem not rings. By the time piston rings "locked up" it would have been out of oil for long enough to do MAJOR damage to the bearings. In fact they usually die from throwing a rod. GD
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92 loyale clutch cable replacement broke
GeneralDisorder replied to Billyt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Get a dealer cable. Aftermarket are complete garbage. They can't handle the difficult angle on the pedal side. Also make sure it's routed under the steering shaft. GD -
Gen 1 DL vs DL BRAT differences?
GeneralDisorder replied to Señor Brat's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
DL is a more stripped model. On something that old it would have no tach, probably AM only radio, less plush interior, maybe vinyl instead of carpet, plain steel rims, stuff like that. GD -
Use a switch to interrupt the ground to the fuel pump. This way if your wiring or switch becomes a problem you are on the ground side of the load and the worst that will happen is your fuel pump doesn't run. It will definitely confound the theif. On a fuel injected engine it will start momentarily (maybe) and then will simply crank and go nowhere. GD
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An EJ22 would work much better without destroying every other mechanical component and overpowering the chassis, suspension, and brakes. If you did manage to put a ~250 HP WRX engine into that chassis you would find that the whole chassis is about as stiff as wet tissue paper and after a few good hard pulls your doors won't open and close correctly anymore. We have a friend with an EJ25 high compression NA engine making about 190 HP and he had to put in an 8 point cage besides also switching it to AWD drivetrain just to make it reasonable on the road and not twist itself up like a pretzel. His is also the larger, stronger 2nd gen chassis (85). Even the EJ22 will not fit without notching the frame rails. Too wide. More reasonable though. And cheaper. The Brat chassis is light enough that 175 to 200 HP will scare you half to death. It's not like they had good handling. I've ended up sideways through front lawns in the '85. That's with it being AWD. Remember it's well over 1000 lbs less than a WRX. Power to weight ratio is what's important here not HP numbers. At 190 HP the Brat will outrun a stock 2.0 WRX in a drag race. It also has RV torque cams so it makes big low end grunt unlike the WRX which needs 2000+ RPM to spool it's turbo. GD
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1980 BRAT no spark will crank
GeneralDisorder replied to Divisible_By_0's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You have a pic of this thing you are calling a transistor on the coil? That's not rigging belts for me. Admittedly I don't work on first gens but about once every decade or so now. GD- 10 replies
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- engine wont start
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1980 BRAT no spark will crank
GeneralDisorder replied to Divisible_By_0's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
All you have to do to verify the coil is to manually interrupt the ground for the coil negative - disconnect the distributor and leave the ignition 12v connected to the coil. Touch a ground wire to the coil negative and each time you remove the ground connection the wire from the coil to the cap should spark against the frame, engine block, etc. Unless you truly are divisible by zero, in which case, whatever dimension you are posting from has different properties of physics.... I've been to a few dimensions but I don't recall one where division by zero was possible. Here in ours we do have some whackjob that came up with a way to square root negative one. Apparently really useful for air traffic control. GD- 10 replies
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- engine wont start
- no start
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It's really not easily possible to do what you are asking - the WRX engine will not fit in the engine bay as it is too wide - and that's a first gen Brat which is even narrower than a second gen..... I've seen it done on a second gen but 1G..... I doubt it. So BIG modifications would have to be made. It's been done but it costs a lot of money. Also the WRX engines you are likely to be buying are not something us Subaru mechanics buy used typically. They are complex and prone to failure when abused and high mileage. Rebuilding one is an expensive proposition. I just finished an '06 WRX build for a customer - blown HG's and cracked oil pickup tube. The bill was over $10k. Mind you it's over 100 HP increase over stock and he got some other upgrades but with the fabrication, wiring, etc required, and add in that you don't already have an engine to rebuild.... don't expect to spend any less than $10k on such a project. GD
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NEED HELP FAST UNKNOWN EA82 PART
GeneralDisorder replied to XHighOctanex's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It doesn't ring any bells for me. I've had dozens of those engines to pieces and back but it's probably been 6-8 years since I've been inside an EA82. Still.... I don't believe that's an engine component. GD