GeneralDisorder

Depends on how tight the pistons are and how coarse the rebore/rehone was. Also valve seating, etc. Generally we see a reduction in fuel economy for a few thousand miles when we knurl the pistons on the EJ's. Were the pistons knurled? What was the ring gap and how were the cylinders setup? Have you compression tested it? GD

That's possible. I hadn't considered which EA you would be putting it in. I have this problem where EA82's are dead to me.... GD

If you like burning holes in the pistons, go for it. I've been there, done that, have the shirt and the dead pistons to prove it too. 10.5:1 is max on just about any aluminium head engine, running on pump gas, without a super radical camshaft profile to bring down the DCR. And that's pushing it since Subaru engines of the period (and some of the present day) have horrific combustion chamber efficiency. That's why you'll see turbocharged Subaru engines running 15 degrees advance under boost when the same displacement Mitsubishi engines run 4 degrees. Flame front propagation..... GD

EJ25's in stock form will not fit without frame rail modifications. Lots of people have done EJ25 with EJ22 phase I heads. GD

Its not normal. A good machine shop can rebush it. These guys do all manner of distributor repair: http://www.philbingroup.com GD

If the ID and OD match. Use it. GD

You must swap pistons from the phase II into the 96 D block. Then you can bolt it up like stock. If you don't the compression will be outrageously high due to the 96 flat top pistons. GD

Being they discontinued the EJ22 after 2001, yes you are correct. You DO NOT WANT a phase II EJ22. They burn oil and usually die from rod bearing failure, They were only used in base model 99 to 01 Impreza's and 99 only Legacy L. They are more expensive than 251's and are much less reliable. Just get a good used EJ251 (1999 to 2005) and install the 770 part number head gasket from Subaru. GD

95's have OBDII. GD

Under drivers seat carpet or under the door sill on the drivers side is where that stuff normally runs afoul. GD

Rislone oil additive is better, in my experience, than SeaFoam. You can leave it in too. If you want to drop by my shop, we sell Amsoil synthetic and I can set you up with some oil that should work and protect the engine much better (more ZDDP). Older engines don't really like the modern API certified oils you get at the parts stores these days - too many good additives pulled out due to emissions. GD

Get an alt for a 1990 Nissan Maxima and swap pulley's. Get the matching harness connector too. GD

If you are running non synthetic, it gets thicker (viscosity increases) the longer you run it. Eventually it would turn to a solid (slugde) if you ran it long enough. Synthetics do not do this (as much). GD

You don't want a Turbo Baja. It's the same story with the Outback XT, Legacy GT, etc. The turbo engines are just too maintenance intensive and tend to live a shorter life in general. It gets expensive to own them fast. In general, the Baja's seem to be cursed. I don't know what it is exactly about that body but they go though engines like crazy and have weird gremlins. It's an outback basically - with part of the roof missing - and they command a premium price. I used to be a huge Brat fan - owned half a dozen of them back in the day. But the Baja frankly is a joke. GD

The rear separator plate covers that leak are the plastic ones from the 90's. Not the aluminum and steel ones. Since you should be doing a new ring set if you are in that far, the cover will be removed and resealed anyway. GD

Most dealerships around here don't replace the HG's. They recommend replacing the engine. As said it's a beast of a job and you are unlikely to find anyone to do it for less than about $4,000 if they will do it at all. If you need to tow, you should get an old Chevy truck. The H6 is always equipped with an auto and you are looking at cars with 200k and 15 years old? Bad idea. GD

The HG's usually start leaking externally after 200k or so. Same with the timing chain cover, oil cooler seals, etc. It is VERY expensive to do HG's on the chain motors. Basically the H6 is a 300k and throw it away engine. Unless you'll be doing the work yourself. Really they are getting pretty old and the 2.5 is much easier to maintain at this age. GD

Tune up and fuel filter if there are no codes. GD

Since a 95 wouldn't have a black cap on the passenger side..... Yeah. Anyway you pry it out and replace it. It's just like any other oil seal. They are about $6. GD

Isuzu and Mistubish used 6 lug with similar offset to Subaru. Toyota, Nissan, and Chevy will all stick out due to more negative offset. GD

Isuzu and Mistubish used 6 lug with similar offset to Subaru. Toyota, Nissan, and Chevy will all stick out due to more negative offset. GD

You can easily disassemble the inner joint of the axles and inspect them. In the case of the one I recently replaced, the tripod had one bearing that was obviously bad. It was rust colored from the fretting taking place - despite being covered in (rust colored) greasy goo. It just wasn't being lubricated. This was obvious upon disassembly. My theory is that if it's already broken - taking it apart can't hurt it. Also you'll learn something - even if that something is that there's nothing serviceable inside and you can't fix it. At least your can learn what and how it fails. Knowledge is power. Taking the time to associate a symptom with an exact, specific cause is knowledge. GD

You typically don't need a machine shop for the heads. You buy new valves, lap them in, and reset the lash. Surfacing is done with a nice thick piece of glass, 120 grit cloth backed wet/dry paper and WD40. Can easily be done with it in a few hours at home. But it does take a little effort to gather the tools and setup for it. Less expensive in the end though. GD

You just buy a set of pistons for a 2000 model 2.5 (that's the 251). And use the 770 part number gasket. We do this all the time to fix the 25D. It gets the gasket thickness down so they don't blow. Bonus - the compression goes up to 10.5 (run premium) and you get 5% more HP or so. GD

We had one done a few weeks ago by Six States Distributors driveline shop (Portland Oregon location): http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp These guys do thousands of MONSTER drivelines for heavy trucks. $190 for a new section of tube, welded, balanced, painted, and serviced u-joints. GD