GeneralDisorder

Both sides of the coil will show 12v with ignition on assuming that coil is good. The distributor fires the coil by breaking the ground connection to the negative side of the coil causing the magnetic field in the primary winding to collapse - inducing a current in the secondary winding - firing the plug (assuming the rotor is pointing to the right wire tower) GD

Get a good brand of rotor and pad. It's probably cheap parts. GD

Cut your own from gasket paper. GD

We can supply what you need and are intimately familiar with swapping them into Subaru's. We get them direct from Redline. They are owned by Worldpac, one of our major wholesalers. The EA81 adapter from Redline is a single piece unit. It is the EA82 version that is two piece. GD

Well it's hard to tell from the video. Could be internal, could be timing component. You definitely have an exhaust leak. Step one for me would be to stethoscope around the front of the engine and possibly run it with the acc. belts removed. The cut the oil filter (with a proper oil filter cutting tool) and check for signs of metal. If no metal and you still can't determine the source of the noise it's time to open the timing covers. If it's a 97 or 98, a timing belt failure will bend one or more of the intake valves. GD

Forester is impreza based and the rear top hat has a bolt pattern that matches the 90-94 Legacy bolt pattern would be my guess. The struts will swap but the top hats will not (in the rear). GD

Can you take a video of snapping the throttle? It's probably an idler but I would like to hear it rev up and down a bit. Quickly snap it open and closed a few times. Also need to know which year. GD

The ECU (if equipped) on that model does not control ignition. Your fault lies elsewhere. I detailed some test in my post above that will narrow it down. GD

Can't help you with the switch as the Trans Am is tuned port injection and the fan is ECM controlled. I would look on some hot rod forums. GD

That should be fine. I run my trans am with 195 on, 185 off and a 180 thermostat. GD

Outer joints click and pop. It's the inner joints that cause the in-gear idle vibration. Check joint cup color. Green is OEM. Anything else has been replaced. GD

You can contact Steven: https://www.facebook.com/infernofab It would not work without modification on a 20G. He would really need the engine at his shop or detailed drawings to move nipples around for the plumbing changes. GD

If you want amazing suspension, then get new KYB Excel-G's and a set of King springs. Primitive Racing here in the Oregon is the wholesaler for the US. They are so good people come back to my shop just to tell me how amazing they are. GD

Exhaust heat sheilds make noises. They don't shake the car. The heat sheild is a few ounces, the car is 3000 pounds. That's just ignorant of physics. GD

Yeah Steven my exhaust guy does turbo inlet / silencer deletes. He's made about 4 I think. No one buys them. He did a prototype on mine then built a jig for them and we have installed a couple. No one wants to spend the coin on a product that actually solves the problem cleanly and forever. Though honestly the v3/v4 JDM intake and dual cam heads solves the problem too and is a much more worthwhile way to spend money. The 22T was a fun little motor but the most fun you can have in G1 Legacy turbo is a 257 swap with 25D heads and v3/v4 intake. You can now find used 255/257 blocks with broken ring lands for $250 to $500 used and drop in forged pistons..... I suppose it's not as simple as it seems looking down from the enormous pile of used parts and junk we have laying around the shop. I could throw one together for the price of some gaskets. But the used 2.5 parts are starting tout show up CHEAP and 22T stuff is getting rare. GD

Or for way less than Samco stuff shipped from the UK you can have a good exhaust guy TIG you up some proper stainless and use silicone couplers. Most of the people that own these cars haven't got the money for either one and end up at Home Depot doing horrific things with PVC plumbing bits and accordion radiator hoses, zip ties, and JB weld. It's just aweful. GD

No. You're over thinking it. Just put them on it will be fine. GD

Do the axles have green painted inner joint cups? GD

Do the axles have green painted inner joint cups? GD

Double post....

Exactly - I bought a civic motor that looked like that. They picked it up and had another to me the next day. GD

Order it from the dealer. It's probably less than $5. GD

Sure. It's a bolt on. If you want really good stuff find a set of the JDM Bilstein Spec B struts and springs. You will need an alignment with the ride height change. GD

It's not the pump. It's most likely your front axles. Get some Subaru reman dealer axles. They run about $193 each retail. GD

Sure - looking to see the color and thickness of the "varnish" inside the engine. Engines run with full synthetic, for example, usually look new with virtually no varnish even after 200k miles. Engines run with non synthetic that's been changed regularly usually have a light carmel color with some darker streaks. Engines that have had infrequent, poor quality oil changes will be black. Really nasty overheated engines will look like a BBQ pit with congealed sludge hanging off things. GD