GeneralDisorder

The ground wire from the pump to the ECU has been tested and is apparently good. But pin #50 on the ECU where that wire connects has no ground. So one of the grounds for the ECU itself is bad. Different ECU's were tried and that is not the problem. The problem is with a ground supply for the ECU not for the pump. I have an '85 FSM and have looked for information on ground point locations and I cannot find anything to help him. Sadly the car is three+ hours from me so I can only help over the phone and online. I have never had this problem nor have I worked on many running 85/86 MPFI/Turbo systems so I don't know where those ground points would be... it's a vexing problem to be sure. GD

Glad you got your car back. I doubt the ECU will complain about it. They were so very primitive back in those days that it's very unlikely. Sometimes you just have to think outside the box! GD

Won't improve performance any. Just get whatever's cheap. GD

If you need to I can also take it loose for you - if sube101 doesn't hook you up with his impact, etc. I can get it off without using an impact. My jedi powers are strong.....:-p GD

Direct swap. Use the accesory brackets from the 93 since that stuff may have changed over those years - belt routing, tension adjust, etc..... DL won't have AC and the Loyale probably does. GD

If it's an EA81 hatch then it will. If it's an EA82 three door coupe then it will not. GD

Did you end up replacing the #4 injector? I'm really glad that engine worked out for you. That's what the Subaru forums are all about. I assume your boss is rather pleased with your ability to find solutions at low, low prices eh? The few challenges in putting that engine in place of the 2.5 should be well worth it considering the overall cost savings and high likelyhood of the car being trouble-free till you have to divest yourselves of it in a few years. Let us know when it comes up for sale... GD

Electrical tape is never used in contact with bare wires, and IMHO should never be used for anything except wrapping up a completed harness, organizing wires into bundles, etc. It is not air/water tight like properly applied heat shrink is. All kinds of stuff. CEL, Weird/erratic idling, tendancy to die while coasting with the clutch in, loss of power, innability to rev past a certain RPM..... depends on what you don't hook up and which ECU it's running. You need everything hooked up properly. None of the connections are optional if you don't want some kind of unhappiness from the ECU. There is between one and two dozen connections between the ECU harness and various parts of the car to get everything working properly. GD

That's basically how it works, yeah. There are a couple things like the VSS, tach, and CEL that either will have to interface with the Brat's wiring or optionally can for a more correct/complete installation. To run the EJ completely bare-bones all you need to hook up is constant power, ignition switched power, start signal (from the starter solenoid), and the fuel pump power from the FP relay to the fuel pump. Everything else is optional but the engine will exhibit strange/annoying behavior without most of the "optional" connections. I charge $250 for OBD-I harnesses, and $200 for ODB-II harnesses.... plus shipping. But I don't touch stuff that's already been half stripped :-p I sugest you learn how to solder and heat shrink. Without a doubt the most important skill for harness work. And buy a label maker. GD

Not neccesary. The only gauge sender that doesn't work correctly is the coolant temp and you can (if you are careful) fit the EA gauge sending unit in the EJ's coolant cross-over. Legacy cluster has no voltage or oil pressure either so it's not a desireable way to go. If you haven't stripped a harness before - you should send it to one of us that do these all the time. You are going to go down the wrong path with your first harness and it's better if you see how we structure them before you try stripping one on your own. You can't run the Legacy fuel pump. It's an in-tank pump and the Brat is setup for an external pump. You need to run something like an EA82 SPFI pump (I use these most of the time since they are cheap in the yards) or the Ford F-150 pump. You need a 50 psi capable pump. The Brat's carb pump puts out 2.5 psi and it will not even come close to working. Won't even start the engine in fact. You will also have to replace all the Brat's fuel lines for the fuel supply downstream of the pump as well as for the return side with high-pressure fuel injection hose. The stock hoses will not handle the pressure that EJ's run at and will burst. GD

Loctite 545. Hydraulic / Pnuematic thread sealant. Good to 10,000 psi. Never had a pipe thread leak after using it . GD

It's a 6202-2RS - you can get them at any bearing supply. They are common as dirt. GD

You cannot draw that conclusion from those symptoms and anecdotal evidence. That's not science. That's guessing. Why don't you check how many amps it's drawing? GD

In open class you will be running against some serious vehicles - prepped STi's and such.... Check out the Open Light class. Even at that - a 2.2 in that coupe is not going to be real fast. You need something like a high compression 2.5 or a turbo engine. The stock transmission doesn't have very favorable gearing either. Better to go with something that will have shorter gears. Are you prepared to do a full roll-cage, racing seats, harnesses, and all the other bits and peices needed to run in Rally? I would do that stuff first and run the car the way it is to see if it's something you want to pursue. GD

First of all - what type of pump do you have? Carb or fuel injected? Model and year would be helpful also And second - why would you think it's going out? An electrical draw causing the engine to change pitch is not a symptom of a failing fuel pump. That conclusion is not based on science - you need to determine to problem - not guess at the problem and throw $250 parts at it.... If I were you I would be looking at your alternator and electrical system. To test the fuel pump - check the fuel pressure. GD

I would push the insurance company to give you more because it's a rare touring model and only made the US market for '89. GD

XT6 control arms are much longer. Several inches. They will not work. When you put the weight of the car on them they will compress. Depending on the spring rate they may compress more or less than the EA81 springs. Thus the uncompressed length is pretty much meaningless. When you put it on the ground and drive it the camber will settle out. It's also adjustable with EJ knuckles and struts. The upper strut bolt is a camber adjusting cam bolt. GD

No. It will be fine. Just heat - don't keep going till you melt the thing. Generally speaking, while the flame is technically hot enough to melt aluminium, a casting the size of a carb top would take more BTUs/Hr than a small propane torch can put out to heat it to melting temp. This has to do with flame size, temp, and how much heat you can actually impart to the object being heated before that heat escapes.... aluminium disperses heat very, very quickly. GD

Cool. I find it helps to set them a bit on the tight side when adjusting the lash. GD

Your cracks are 100% normal. Don't do anything with them. Just surface the heads, lap the valves, and change the stem seals. My post on head surfacing: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126868&highlight=apocalyptic http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000FW4MFC/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1328809553&sr=8-31 (look at the "frequently bought together" listing for the tool, compound, and prussian blue to check your surfaces). GD

No - as long as the needle can move freely and will seat in the bottom it will be fine. The top where that screwdriver slot is located is not a critical surface. GD

Yeah you need a large screwdriver. Also often helps to give threaded items like that a sharp blow with a hammer/punch - breaks the corrosion bond. An impact screwdriver would be perfect but you would have to custom grind a bit to fit that seat. If it were really stuck then I would probably sacrifice a socket extension and grind it to fit that slot then use the impact driver. GD

You did this with it in the air or with the weight of the car on them? GD

Between valve cracks are NORMAL. All EA82 heads have these. Subaru has issued a TSB to ignore them. You can easily resurface the heads yourself and rent a valve spring compressor to take out the valves and install new seals. An inexpensive kit to lap the valves smooth is also a good idea. You don't need a machine shop to do these things and in any case they clearly have no experience with these heads. GD

Did you do a valve adjustment or does this one have hydro lifters? GD