GeneralDisorder

New cable is around or less than $25 from the dealer. Just get a new one.... assuming that straightening the engine side bracket isn't working for you. Usually what causes me to replace them is binding and a hard feel to the pedal due to freying near where the cable enters the sheath. I haven't had one stretch..... GD

True - but if you just installed a repair sleeve and TOB then why not just continue to use both? The juddering will not have damaged the TOB. If it's still new then I'm not seeing why you would replace it. Sell the one from the Exedy kit to a board member for $20 shipped. GD

Didn't you already install one? Typically when you install a snout repair kit it's good for the life of the car - since the new snout surface is not aluminium anymore.... only reason you would have to replace that is if you need to split the transmission case. GD

Heh. I DON'T wish I was in Wisconsin..... though there is a lot of Soobs there I hear. Soobs and snow ... and rust . GD

Exedy is THE clutch manufacturer that Subaru uses. All OEM clutches are stamped "Daikin" which is a subsidiary of Exedy. The Exedy kits are factory quality because they ARE factory. Amazon sells almost everything under the sun. They have the best prices on Exedy clutches and free shipping. I cannot beat their price anywhere online or otherwise. Looks up the clutch part number on Exedy's web site and use that at Amazon to find the kit you need. GD

Bring it down to me. I just did an '04 Baja around Christmas. Total cost with a 125k used engine (with warrantee), new head gaskets, all new timing components, seals, and tune up parts was $2400 (engine was $1400). He was very happy with the outcome - board member from Seattle actually. I can come get the car and tow it back to my shop in Portland for about $250. Take the bus or train down and pick it up... etc. GD

Junk clutch I would bet. Exedy clutch (Amazon has the best prices), resurface flywheel, sand the snout with 220 grit to soften the wear marks, and grease the crap out of it. Same with the fork pivot, etc. I never have juddering problems with my clutch installs. GD

Better option is to sleeve the EA81 ball joints with a section of 1-1/4" exhaust tubing - notched for the pinch bolt and tack welded to the ball joint of course. XT6 arms won't fit the EA81 - too long. GD

All will be made clear when we post about the custom races and axle builds. Suffice to say that the single axle you have dissasembled is not representative of all legacy axles. There's about a dozen different varieties. Don't worry about the one you have not being compatible. Some are. GD

As I said we are making custom races for the front axles. That's what I've been talking about this whole time.... GD

All Brat (EA81) axle bars have the 23 spline outer joint interface. Legacy joints are either 22, 25, or 30 spline. You don't use any of the XT6 stuff in the rear except the hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper/bracket. Everything else is left EA81. The XT6 and EA81 (and EA82) hubs all use the same interface and all swap. GD

Your best bet and easiest to find would be the EJ25 from '00 to '04 or so. Should plug right up to the 2.2 harness. GD

Yes but as I've pointed out numerous times it's not really an issue either way. Belt breakage is extremely unlikely. GD

Jacob was told it would work by the EMPI axle "guru" in CA. Turns out it does not work. GD

The only way I know to do what you are asking is to install a transmission equipped with DCCD. That means a very rare JDM 5 speed with DCCD or a 6 speed USDM STi transmission with a standalone DCCD controller. Figure on spending about $3000 to $4000 for the transmission and standalone system.... plus installation and custom fab work, etc. The AWD transmissions have a viscous coupler that is either made in 4Kg or 20 Kg versions apparently.... though all that 20Kg unit does is make it *more* like a 4WD and I've only heard they exist - I've never seen one and wouldn't know where to get one. It will not actively transfer more or less torque anywhere... just makes it harder for the front to turn independantly from the rear. GD

That is almost certainly a 95 or 96 2.2 from a manual transmission car (well the intake is anyhow). If the heads are dual exhaust port it's a '95. If they are single it's a '96. GD

Trust me - you don't want a P0400 code. And HE will have to register it out of the area if he doesn't fix the CEL from the EGR.... Two possibilities - either the guy recently reset the codes to get rid of the CEL. It can take a few days and multiple drive cycles to pull the P0400 code.... or the CEL is not working/rewired/removed. I suppose since it's a manual they may have used the 2.2 MT ECU.... that's always a possibility and should eliminate the code. GD

That has the stupid dodge neon coil pack conversion and it wasn't even done using the right plug wires. Are those 25D plug wires I'm seeing sticking out of the 22E heads?!? Really scary and stupid. Someone was when they did that engine swap. That 2.2 has no EGR - what did they do about the CEL that you will inevitably get....? all the 25D cars have EGR and you will get a CEL if you don't equip the 2.2 with it. Can't pass emissions that way. And yeah - the hot air intake is a huge FTL. GD

There is no active torque distribution on a FT4WD transmission. Torque is not split front/rear. It just goes to the wheel with the least friction. Since there is no mechanism in the transmission to split the torque - there is nothing to modify that will change said mechanism.... It's an open diff or a locked diff. There is no in-between with your tranny. You can lock it into 4WD and remove the front axles to make it 100% rear wheel drive. But the tranny will not take that kind of abuse forever. You will strip out the 4WD transfer gears eventually. They weren't designed to take all the power the engine can make. GD

I can see the temptation to swap the knuckle. But I really think that the same amount of time spent looking for a used one could be spent finding a local shop that has a hub tamer, press, etc and the know-how to properly install the bearing for you if you bring them the knuckle. I will PROPERLY install any EJ bearing for anyone local that brings me a knuckle and new bearings/seals for $20 and a 6 pack of Rolling Rock. Or as you said you can rent the hub tamer type tools from various auto parts suppliers. They want to sell you the bearings and seals and are happy to have you leave a deposite on the tool and then bring it back and refund your deposit when you are done. The instructions are simple and there's write-up's online with pictures. GD

I do them with the knuckle on the car - no messing with ball joints, camber alignment, etc. No dealing with yards, pulling used crap off in the cold, or phoning around - just buy a bearing and some seals that are both in-stock at my supplier for about $45 for all of it and install them. Takes about an hour total. Done and done. GD

That's what THEY are saying. It's not what I'm saying :-p GD

I've done both and personally - for my money a new bearing is the way to go. Cheaper and done correctly it will last the rest of the life of the car. Pickle forks are silly. If you want to pop a ball joint without damaging the boot - spend the $16 on one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html I've used this dozens of times and it's never failed and never ripped a boot. GD

Can't see your pics but by your description of the location I would lean toward a leaking water pump gasket or weep hole, lower radiator hose, bypass hose, or thermostat housing, etc. EJ22's don't leak coolant externally from the head gaskets. When they fail they blow compression gasses into adjacent coolant ports. I would say it's highly unlikely that you have found the first and only external HG leak on an EJ22 that I've seen or heard of. Much more likely that you need a timing belt/WP job and a complete reseal - valve covers, cam seals, etc. If it runs fine and doesn't overheat - you will probably be fine with it. The EJ22 is inexpensive and can easily be replaced if needed for about $500. GD

If it's really a 22T - split the block and do a full rebuild. You don't want to accidentally kill one of those and you can't inspect the bearings without splitting the case. That engine is rare and valuable. GD