GeneralDisorder

Grind the head off (die grinder and cut-off wheel, dremel, etc) and once the thread tension is released the leftover bit should just spin out by hand. GD

Evap system doesn't matter. Install the fuel pump in the same location as the old one. Replace the supply and return hoses with fuel injection hose. The return is smaller than the supply so you will have to use several different hose sizes. GD

Hhhmm - the Subaru SPFI pumps are 50 psi. The F150 pump in question is a frame-rail mounted pump for the 80's fuel injected models I believe. I always just use the EA82 SPFI pumps. Plentiful in the yards, low failure rate, and we have one running an EJ25 frankenmotor without issue. GD

Woof. That's just ugly in there. Glad you got wheels again. Not to worry the Baja will get all tuned up shortly GD

Hhhmmm - I'll have to dry drilling one of these just for kicks. They don't look real intimidating. GD

I need to get one of those.... I have a bluetooth one around here that can connect to my phone. When I get it talking to one of the cars I have here I'll see what it says about that. I think the fact that this came from people on a Dodge forum says all that needs to be said. What's really happening here is the cross-eyed Chrysler engineer read the directions wrong on his "O2 sensors for dummies play set" and so it's actually Toyota, Honda, and Subaru that are doing it "normal". GD

Exedy is OEM. Diakin was the OEM but is now owned by Exedy. GD

Bigger radiator will NOT make it run cooler. The temp of the engine is determined by the thermostat. The radiator could make it run hotter if it's too small or clogged - but larger is not going to make it run any cooler if the thermostat is working properly. GD

All aftermarket radiators have the transmission cooler lines. You don't need to block them. GD

Valve cover gaskets or oil pan gasket. GD

What do you consider "rediculous" for driveline cost? I can tell you who I've used to have driveline's made but it might be just as bad as the quote you got. Everything they told you rings true to what I've been told - have to use new yoke's and new tubing because of the way it neck's down on the ends and the odd tube sizing. I think they used Nissan yoke's on the last one we had made. Was about $375 for a single-peice driveline for an AWD swap in a Brat..... GD

When a Subaru blows a head gasket.... well there's degree's of blown. But a *small* leak will push exhaust gasses into the cooling system at a rate that isn't neccesarily going to cause overheating - bubbles escape out the radiator cap and into the overflow. The problem comes when the exhaust gas bubbles collect around the thermostat and insulate it from the coolant - then the thermostat closes even though the engine is hot.... and that stops the coolant flow resulting in an overheat. A pressure test may tell you nothing. A small leak in a HG may not show up because the engine isn't hot enough or the cylinder pressure isn't present as when the engine is running. I've seen MANY Subaru's with blown HG's that would drive fine with the thermostat pulled. That's always the first step to limping them home or to the shop, etc. Pull or gut the thermostat. Power loss, missing, etc are not symptoms of HG failure on Subaru's. Overheating is.... but not when the thermostat is pulled. GD

Took a look at that '95 in my garage and it was indeed RR and HLA. GD

Subaru uses O2's the same way everyone else does. It's a narrow band O2.... I'm not sure how it could possibly be used any differently. Can this "someone elsewhere" explain exactly how it uses it differently? If not I call BS. Rear end noise is probably a wheel bearing. Wouldn't be surprising at that mileage. Not hard to do if you have a hub tamer or similar tool. Done much the same way as any other FWD car's *front* wheel bearings. Being AWD the front and rear are both pressed into a knuckle with an axle passing through them to a splined hub. GD

Each one is different. How you hook them up or if you hook them up depends on how you want to solve each problem and knowing how to deal with each one really depends on understanding how each of those systems work on both the Brat and the Legacy and deciding which, if either, you want to use. The oil pressure for instance - the Brat uses a sending unit for a gauge and the Legacy doesn't have a gauge - it uses an idiot light. So what do you want to do? You can plumb the Brat's sending unit into the EJ oil pump or you can add an idiot light to the Brat..... dealers choice. Tach is a differrent problem with a different solution. It has to be hooked to the tach signal generator. In the Brat's thats the negative side of the coil. On the Legacy it's a signal generator circuit in the ECU. So you just route the wire that went to the negative side of the coil to the tach signal generator pin of the ECU and the gauge will work. Each wire has it's own explanation for how and why it works and what possible solutions there are. You need to read the EJ swap threads and write-up's to get a handle on all of these and how you want to do it. I can't list them all here. GD

Missing thermostat usually means the HG's are already blown. Often they won't overheat if you take out the thermostat. GD

Ratcheting 12mm makes them easy to remove. Takes me about 5 minutes to remove the Maxima alts at the yards. It's harder than the Subaru's though. GD

Looks like it should be fine. I would trust that someone probably tested this combination if it's in a rebuild kit. The inlet needle's and seats always look somewhat different in the generic kits I've found. GD

There is no need for the pan gasket. I've done dozens of these engines without the gasket. It's troublesome and uneccesary and will eventually fail. The aftermarket cork is very soft compared to the dealer part also so it's not "five bucks" either. It's about $12. Doug is paranoid and I've proven mathematically that the .030" reduction in pan to pickup tube clearance is minor and not a source of oil flow restriction. You can check out these posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1055286&postcount=47 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1077906&postcount=136 GD

If your engine is in good condition otherwise - then yes. You should easily be able to maintain 90 MPH and acceleration with the Weber is excellent due to it's progressive linkage and larger barrels. I have had good mileage from my Weber's - as much as 32 mpg on freeway trips. Typically 26 to 28 in mixed driving. GD

Naw - just torque the bolts. I think it's around 55 In/lbs but look it up and make sure. GD

Rear oil gallery plug. It's a plug the size of a quarter - flat on top with an alan socket hole. It's just about right below the TPS on the top of the block. You can order a kit online that replaces this plug with the one used for the idiot light switch and comes with a flare fitting adaptor and a length of braided SS hose to run to your sending unit, etc on the firewall... GD

Install an oil pressure gauge and get a real reading from the engine. The light only requires >4 psi to shut off. It being off is not a good indication that proper oil pressure has been acheived. It just means it's probably over 4 psi. Anything under about 15 psi at idle when hot is bad. Under 10 is REALLY bad. Especially if measured at the pump. Best place to check the pressure is at the end of the main oil gallery at the rear plug. Should be just about right below the TPS on the top of the block.... New oil pump seals shut off the light on my EA81. Still only lasted 5k before it blew up. But no oil light for that 5k! GD

Yep. That's the one. They are getting really cheap these days. My local Redline dealer gets me the adaptors for the EA82 for about $35 and air filters are like $17 or something. Fuel filters are a buck. That's a little over $250. You can't hardly buy a reman Hitachi for that kind of value. And as car-parts go that's cheap for a performance and reliability upgrade. GD

Yeah call around to shops in your area. I pay $63 each from my local supplier. After shipping it would be more than that from rockauto. But then I have an awesome supplier . GD