GeneralDisorder

Do you have a diagram that shows *exactly* what is hooked to that fuse? You can should hook a meter to between load side of the fuse connection and ground then disconnect all the things powered off that fuse one at a time till the resistance jumps up. GD

He is dealing with 2WD here! They are totally different. Different size nut, different brake drum, fixed spindle, etc. You are confusing the man with tales of 4WD and experience with front axles, etc. This is 100% different and if you haven't done one before you arent helping! GD

You need to read the link I posted above. You will use the "diode test" function of the multi-meter but what you are testing is not, stricktly speaking, a diode. It is.... but it's most complicated than that because it's actually a transistor that is constructed with diode-like semi-conductor junctions...... The T702 sounds like the one you should test. It will have three legs on it that are soldered to the board. Read that link I posted above and it will quide you through how to test a transistor. GD

The TRX rims (390mm) aren't all bad - Michelin still makes the TRX tires but only in the one size - 190/65-390 They are high performance tires and handle very well. Thus the relatively high price. But most performance tires are fairly expensive. The problem comes when people get these rims thinking they are 15's and try to put something that wasn't designed for them on. The bead lip is entirely different also.... normal tires don't fit because the rims were designed for special high performance tires. GD

It's most likely T702 on your board. But the one that was a problem on his was Q701.... I would look for T701 and test that one.... Your's is an '85.... his may have been a later model hot-wire MAF unit. All the MPFI's from that era use this strange fuel pump ground through the ECU.... but I'm just speculating that his problem and your problem are similar. For all we know from reading the posts his problem may have been on the fuel pump relay driver side of the circuit. Certainly worth a test of a few transistors though. GD

I would just burn it off with my plasma. If you can get a die-grinder in there and slice it down till you are just almost to the threads you can probably split it with a chisel.... Sometimes there's no substitute for heavy duty tools. GD

If you are going to use a carb - are you going to do a blow-through or a draw-through setup? If you are doing a blow-through then what are you going to do about sealing the carb and how will you handle the fuel pressure? What will you do with the power valve when the manifold pressure goes positive? It can and has been done. But I wouldn't bother doing it to an EA. An EJ of some sort.... maybe. There's a lot of consideration that goes into building a proper forced induction engine of any kind. You have to understand a lot more than the average mechanic about vacuum and pressure. And doing it with a carb is ten times harder than with fuel inejction. GD

You might need to burn it off with a torch or plasma cutter, etc. at this point. I've never seen an axle nut round off. I would guess that your socket is not a good fit for the nut. A proper fitting, 6 point, deep-well impact socket is a must for axle nuts. GD

I think you may be onto something with the Q701 transistor - worth a check for sure. The pictures is in the zip file attached to that repair post... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5039&d=1183545203 You will need a meter with a diode function and then you can refer to here on how to test it: http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/transistor_faults_02.php GD

The bushing in your picture is a friction fit inside the ear. You can easily move it with a punch and a hammer. Flip it around if neccesary. All the listings I have seen say that '86 to '94 Maxima's use the same alt. Look on Rockauto.com for pictures and click on their part numbers for interchange info. The plug IS different. That's a given. You have to remove the plastic from the Subaru spade's and slip them onto the male spades of the Maxima alt. Or solder in the Maxima (also 95 to 98 Subaru) alt connector. And finally - Duralast makes GARBAGE parts. Return it and get a proper alt from Bosch, etc. GD

The 4 speed is a LOT longer than any of the 5 speeds. Probably about 8" longer. It's pretty rediculous actually. If it were me - I would weld it up myself and then see if it even needed balancing. If you want a custom driveline made and balanced - these guys do a great job. http://www.driveshafts.com/ GD

How many blower motors have you built? GD

Pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. GD

If you click on my user name you will get the option to send me a private message.... may not be there till you have over 10 posts. I see you have 10 exactly so you might have to make another one first.... I just looked online (didn't call any of my other places yet) and I see that a place in Albany has a likely candidate: 1990 Engine Subaru Legacy 169,000 A6M0067 $450 Pick A Part, Albany - PAR Member USA-OR(Albany) Request_Quote 1-800-927-5855 Request_Insurance_Quote GD

The hole pattern is very close to the center of rotation. The closer you are to the axis of rotation the less any modifications to the material will matter as far as balancing. Think of the boundery condition - you can add and subract as much weight as you want at the exact center and it will never change the balance. In practice the changes made for an EJ swap flywheel are close enough to the center and small enough that they don't matter. Don't bother balancing it. GD

So you are looking for a used EJ22 right? Not a rebuilt short block... cause then you would be keeping the heads yes? :-p Shipping an entire engine would be a lot more than just a short block. Probably cheaper to drive here and get it. PM me and we can figure it out. GD

Yep - I can do pretty much any EJ shortblock rebuild for $1000. Shipping to you would be about $65. But it's totally not worth in on the phase-I EJ22's - I can get engines with 120k to 150k for $500 every day of the week. I bought one last week for $475 with a $25 core with 150k on it. Runs like a top. I bought another a few weeks before it for $350 and no core with 137k on it. Also runs like a dream. Even for higher performance engines used it sometimes a better deal. I got an EJ255 short block for a customer of mine with an '02 WRX. $800 for a great condition short block from a wrecked car with 65k on it.... total no brainer. With prices and availibility being what they are on good used EJ22's.... why would you even bother cracking a short block? These are what I call "appliance" engines. It's an engine for a "commuting appliance". It's not a high performance engine, and with good care they will go 300k. $500 for another 150k of trouble-free motoring is a no-brainer. I do this all day, every day. I can tell you how best to spend your money. But I can only lead you to the river.... I can't make you drink GD

None of that stuff is a deal killer for a good mechanic. I can swap any EJ251/253 around without much trouble. Use the manifold that goes with the car and modify the long-block as needed. Drilling and tapping EGR ports is the biggest hurdle for most people because of the 20mm x 1.5 plug/bottoming taps that you need for the job. But IT IS 100% POSSIBLE to swap them all around. A fellow board member here just put a '99 EJ223 into an '03. Runs great - no codes. GD

The sets are garbage. The only Fel-Pro Subaru gasket that's worth using is the head gasket itself. For the rest - dealer only. There are some that I source from my import parts supplier up here but the brand is not easy to get your hands on from any of the common parts stores. Online is the best bet. GD

Sadly I doubt anyone will have any useful ideas since the wiring on the thing is totally custom. Needs dielectric grease on all the terminal strips, etc.... possibly a dodgy relay. When it loses power you just have to trace down through the connections from the battery to the igntion and fuel pump relays and you'll probably find a loose or lightly corroded terminal, etc. We should probably recrimp all the ring terminals with my "new" method of removing the plastic insulators and using heat shrink instead. Keeps the ring terminal crimps much happier. That's how I did Aaron's Brat and it's been 100% since the build. He daily drives it. GD

The front diff carrier bearings have to be replaced. The OBX diff's don't come with them and you'll destroy the old one's getting them off the open diff. Stub shaft seals are simple - input shaft seal can only be accessed by splitting the transmission case. GD

Actually I had that same idea. I also noticed that the TPS reading was really odd at ide. As in it never read 0% on my scanner. I need to check into that further. I just had a '98 Legacy with the same engine (Forester has a 2.2 swap) on my scanner and it was reading 0% at idle from the TPS. It shifts smooth as butter. In fact!! The car in question that was on my scanner today is the car the 2.2 in the Forester came from and it shifted hard when it was in the Legacy also.... the engine I put in it's place is from a '95 and runs and drives great.... Confused yet? :-p I'll have to look into this closer for sure. GD

I'm not in the bearing industry (never have been....perhaps you have me confused?) but if you get the numbers off the bearings they are likely just standard tapered roller bearings that can be sourced from a bearing supply. There are automotive only bearings though that you can't do this with... but for carrier bearings they are usually just simple off-the-shelf units. I did rear axle bearings on a 70's 1/2 ton Dodge not too long ago - besides being a pain in the neck they were easy to source from my local bearing supplier using the numbers on the races. GD

The carbs are online for $199 with free shipping. Found a couple places that list that price. The adaptor you can get from any Redline dealer for $35 to $40. Air filter can be had from Redline and EMPI - about $20. The kit has a worthless instruction sheet and a cable bracket that doesn't work. Not worth the extra $60 that's for sure. GD

Don't buy the kit. Get the carb, adapter plate, and filter. That's all you need. GD