GeneralDisorder

I do them quite regularly. I'm up near Portland but how far would you drive to have it done right? GD

'99 Legacy 2.5 will be an EJ25D and will not work with the '99 Impreza's EJ223 wiring. You need a '99 2.5RS engine, '99 Forester engine, or a 2000 to 2004 engine. Basically you need an EJ253 or EJ251. GD

No the head bolts are NOT the same as the exhaust studs. The head bolts are M11 x 1.25. One millimeter larger. With aluminium you want as much thread engagement as you can get for the head bolts which is why I use 33mm inserts. The threaded section of the holes is 37mm deep. I would not use the Keen-serts as they have those tiny locking tabs that have to be driven down - those could cause issues with the head gaskets not to mention the driver tool that seats them could create a divot around the hole. With any insert you are enlarging the hole but it would be best to keep the amount of the enlargement to a minimum. Which the heli-coil's do. And besides all that the Keen-serts aren't availible in the required size so you can't use them regardless of desire GD

The forester has no ability to control a turbo. Using a 22T block with high compression pistons so you don't need a turbo is a waste of a 1000 HP block. You can't get enough power without forced induction to need that expensive of a block. GD

Classic head gaskets - but also classic of coolant not flowing and/or radiator not holding pressure. Change the thermostat and radiator cap (Dealer only for both) and be sure to use the bleeder plug on the passenger side of the radiator when filling. Bubbles are not conclusive. Could be a bad radiator cap and low coolant level. Change the two potential failure items and then retest. You will know for sure that way. If it still does it - time for HG's. You can reuse the thermostat and cap that you invested in. GD

I agree. I would do a 2.2 in it. And if the bottom end of that 99 25D is any good it can be sold for a frankenmotor candidate to offset the cost of the replacement 22. GD

No way. EA82T with high miles (unreliable) and an early flapper-MAF version to boot...... Price is too high - can easily get into a first gen Legacy for that much. Run. GD

Not a good swap because it's not compatible mechanically or electrically. You need a '95 to '98 EJ22 from an automatic. GD

Well - Numchux must have made a mistake there - there is not, and never has been, a starter relay on any Subaru prior to 1990. There *may* be a relay controlled by the clutch switch on manual's 90 and up.... in any case the starter circuit is NEVER touched when doing an EJ swap. It's 100% seperate from the engine control system except for the start signal wire to the ECU which comes directly off the starter solenoid wire. The starter interlock relay is used on EJ's to prevent you from starting the car in gear on auto's or without pushing the clutch on manuals. But you aren't transplanting the starting circuit - you are transplanting the engine control systems. So what do you need it for? I was thinking you had an auto harness - but I realize now that your interlock relay is for the clutch switch on the Legacy. You have no such animal on the Brat so you don't need an interlock. GD

99 has the 52mm rod bearings - that is the exception to the 25D rules. It's a much better engine. No compression probably means burned or bent valves. It's about $500 to rebuild a set of those heads. So understand that you are most likely going to be into this job for $1000 in parts and machine work. GD

I can sell you the other half of the one's I bought for your GL-10's block. Have to buy them in quantities of 50 and you only need 18 per block so I have plenty leftover. They are M11 x 1.25 x 33mm inserts. GD

You can eliminate the valve that connects to that silly large pipe off the EGR - that's just an extreaneous bit that you don't need. It's the AAV (anti-afterburn valve) and it prevents fuel from being sucked into the engine through the idle circuit under closed throttle coasting.... it's probably shot by now anyway so you can just eliminate it. Use an EGR from a mid to late 90's EJ22 or EJ25. They have a smaller diaphram and fit easier. GD

There is no such animal as a "starter relay". And the EJ harness has it's own ignition relay - that's the brown 6 pin unit you are calling a "main relay". It's really just two relays in one unit that has a single coil to close both. Why are you keeping the shift interlock relay? You putting a 4EAT in your Brat? I don't see any TCU connectors...... GD

Easier to pull the radiator out - fans stay attached. Two bolts on the top and the hoses. It's not like you aren't draining coolant anyway. Might as well start with a drain pan and pull the radiator first thing. GD

That's very good for a turbo automatic. I get a solid 16.5 mpg in my '91 2.2 turbo SS. And it only drinks premium. GD

Yes - get your exhaust gaskets from the dealer. 2x means that aluminium should have a thread engagement that is twice the diameter of the threads. Steel = 1x Cast iron, brass, and bronze = 1.5x Aluminium, zinc, and plastics = 2x GD

Clean out all your PCV lines and replace the the PCV breather element in the filter box if you have a carb model. GD

If you work with electronics then figureing out the wires should be no trouble at all. All you need is a meter or a diagram. It's a whole 5 wires you are dealing with. You will need a DPST switch - they sell key switches for this purpose - and obviously a push-button. You should use relays to control the actual current switching so the pushbutton doesn't take the full starter current and the toggle switch can be much smaller and nicer looking. It's still a stupid idea though. $5 will get you a used ignition switch from the junk yard. They rarely fail..... you also haven't determined if the switch is even the problem. Thus your toggle switch may not even function to turn it off. GD

Heh. You should not go any lower than recommended in your manual - which is 10w30. Going lower may help you mileage very slightly - at a much higher cost in engine wear. If you want economy then sell the turbo and get one with an NA engine. Turbos don't respond well to attempt at super high economy. They need to run rich to prevent detonation and bring down exhaust temps. Poor mileage is a hallmark of owning a turbo and it something you learn to live with..... Or blow up engines. GD

Don't. A replacement ignition switch is about $35 from the dealer. You will just end up making a mess of things. If you have to ask how to do it you aren't ready to do it properly. Trust me I do a lot of electrical work because of silly notions like that one. GD

The tube is steel. Brazing would work I suppose but typically welding is just easier. GD

The ecu and all its sensors are grounded through the manifold harness connections. Sometimes there is another ground in the body harness but IIRC that is only on OBD-II's GD

I have used at least two to three dozen of the mizumo kits - with the exception of the 90 to 96 tensioner roller bushing being too short (use the old one - not a wear item) they have been great. I have a customer with 80k on one of their 60k belt kits. No problems at all. GD

Block off plate isnt even neccesary. Without a vacuum supply the valve is its own block off plate. The thread is definitely metric.... Probably M16 x 1.5. But you can easily make a plug from the old tube with a bit of welding. GD

Why plug it? With an EGR or block off plate installed its effectively plugged. GD