GeneralDisorder

There is no such animal as a "starter relay". And the EJ harness has it's own ignition relay - that's the brown 6 pin unit you are calling a "main relay". It's really just two relays in one unit that has a single coil to close both. Why are you keeping the shift interlock relay? You putting a 4EAT in your Brat? I don't see any TCU connectors...... GD

Easier to pull the radiator out - fans stay attached. Two bolts on the top and the hoses. It's not like you aren't draining coolant anyway. Might as well start with a drain pan and pull the radiator first thing. GD

That's very good for a turbo automatic. I get a solid 16.5 mpg in my '91 2.2 turbo SS. And it only drinks premium. GD

Yes - get your exhaust gaskets from the dealer. 2x means that aluminium should have a thread engagement that is twice the diameter of the threads. Steel = 1x Cast iron, brass, and bronze = 1.5x Aluminium, zinc, and plastics = 2x GD

Clean out all your PCV lines and replace the the PCV breather element in the filter box if you have a carb model. GD

If you work with electronics then figureing out the wires should be no trouble at all. All you need is a meter or a diagram. It's a whole 5 wires you are dealing with. You will need a DPST switch - they sell key switches for this purpose - and obviously a push-button. You should use relays to control the actual current switching so the pushbutton doesn't take the full starter current and the toggle switch can be much smaller and nicer looking. It's still a stupid idea though. $5 will get you a used ignition switch from the junk yard. They rarely fail..... you also haven't determined if the switch is even the problem. Thus your toggle switch may not even function to turn it off. GD

Heh. You should not go any lower than recommended in your manual - which is 10w30. Going lower may help you mileage very slightly - at a much higher cost in engine wear. If you want economy then sell the turbo and get one with an NA engine. Turbos don't respond well to attempt at super high economy. They need to run rich to prevent detonation and bring down exhaust temps. Poor mileage is a hallmark of owning a turbo and it something you learn to live with..... Or blow up engines. GD

Don't. A replacement ignition switch is about $35 from the dealer. You will just end up making a mess of things. If you have to ask how to do it you aren't ready to do it properly. Trust me I do a lot of electrical work because of silly notions like that one. GD

The tube is steel. Brazing would work I suppose but typically welding is just easier. GD

The ecu and all its sensors are grounded through the manifold harness connections. Sometimes there is another ground in the body harness but IIRC that is only on OBD-II's GD

I have used at least two to three dozen of the mizumo kits - with the exception of the 90 to 96 tensioner roller bushing being too short (use the old one - not a wear item) they have been great. I have a customer with 80k on one of their 60k belt kits. No problems at all. GD

Block off plate isnt even neccesary. Without a vacuum supply the valve is its own block off plate. The thread is definitely metric.... Probably M16 x 1.5. But you can easily make a plug from the old tube with a bit of welding. GD

Why plug it? With an EGR or block off plate installed its effectively plugged. GD

No clue then. I guess they could have come from an import engine or something. I've seen the inside of every single year of EJ22 on the USDM stuff and I've never seen that config before. Maybe some strange year of the EJ18? I haven't messed with many of those but I'm told they are virtually indistiguishable from a casting and valve perspective. So much so that head shops can't even tell them apart without marking them. Though the combustion chamber sizes may be slightly different. GD

Is there pictures? I would say they just don't know what they are looking at. I've never seen flat rockers and solid lifters. I would go as far as to say they don't exist because I've seen enough of these to know that SLA only came two years after roller rockers were introduced. GD

The MAP sensor code should be simple to diagnose - this is childs play. These J and J jokers obviously haven't got a clue. You need a scanner that can read the live data from the sensor. This can be as simple as a bluetooth to OBD-II adaptor from ebay ($25) and the Torque application ($4.99) for any Android device (that has bluetooth). Or as complicated as one of the Snap-On diagnostic centers that cost $8,000. You just need something that can show the live data from the sensor. It should be about 20 in/Hg at idle. Either there is an electrical issue, or the vacuum hoses are hooked up wrong, or the sensor is dead. Again - this is totally simple to diagnose. The catalyst effeciency code can be bad sensors (front or rear or both), bad cat's, exhaust leaks, missing heat sheilds, etc. Also a simple fix - thread the secondary sensor into a drilled-out 18mm spark plug non-fouler from the HELP! section of the autoparts store and be on your way. The P1143 is probably telling you that the MAP code is due to a bad sensor, or wiring plug at the sensor, or pinched wire, etc, etc.... Just have to LOOK with your EYES! GD

I replied to your vistor message. Click on your user name and you will find my message. GD

Thye use inch/pounds because it's such a low torque value that it's on the bottom end of the scale for most ft/lb insturments. It's 11 ft/lbs and most of them start at 10. The low end of the scale is not typically very accurate on precision measureing devices so they call for an in/lbs device so the result is more accurate. That said I typically just do them with my larger insturment set at 11. I haven't had a problem with it. But I do use Snap-On torque insturments. GD

Hooking up the choke would be wise. You can't tune or adjust it with the choke not pulled off. GD

Right. Current = voltage / resistance. You know the voltage, and you can test the resistance. If you dont have a resistance that yields a current small enough to fit the fuse in the hole.... You have a short or some device drawing too much current. Find the device or the short and your resistance will jump to an acceptable level. GD

IIRC it was about $400 for a driveline for the race Brat. It uses an AWD 5 speed. Yeah sounds like it would probably work ok. Why don't you just shorten the Legacy driveline, make some carrier bearing mounts, and change the rear diff flange to match? GD

OBD-II to bluetooth adaptor and the "Torque" application for your Android device (phone or tablet) will graph, log, etc your O2 sensor voltages for you. Total cost was $35 for both. GD

That's a whole engine. You just pop over to Albany, pick it up, and drop it in your car. Obviously you will want to do the timing belt, water pump, idlers, seals, plugs, wires, etc. But that's the basic idea. Very simple. GD

Buy a turbo car. Not worth the effort to do a swap unless it's something really special and unless you have done a dozen engine swaps it will never be as good as just buying a car that's already got a turbo from the factory. GD

EA81T's are fuel injected. Masarati used a blow-through with the carbs at manfiold pressure. In theory you can use any normal carb with a draw-through. Personally I think it's a waste of time. But whatever. GD