GeneralDisorder

Throw in solid lifter cams and rocker assemblies from a 97/98, adjust the intakes to .008 and exhaust to .010 and call it good. Drive it till it dies. The wear you describe sounds minor. Does it use copius amounts of oil? If not then run it till the rods let go. EJ22's are worthless. The time and effort to rebuild one is wasted when you could rebuild a 2.5 short block for the same money and do a high-compression build. 180+ HP and the same or better fuel economy due to the high compression. You can easily find EJ22's with under 150k for around the $500 neighborhood if you look and just have some patience. A simple visual inspection under the valve covers, check for crank end play, etc is all that's required - and most yards have compression numbers for them. Buy one, put it in, and treat it nicely. Probably get another 200k from it easily. I've done the cost/benefit analysis on this and I've done it both ways - the used engines are always cheaper and the gamble is well worth it. I've dropped dozens of used tested engine and NOT ONE has come back. GD

Yes and yes. I've seen them fail in that way before. Electronics can fail due to heat. I've seen at least a few alternators do this as well as a few distributors - car will run for a few minutes and then the spark mysteriously just dies out or will not restart when hot..... What you SHOULD do here is replace that round-plug alt with a 95 to 99 OBD-II alternator. All you have to do is get a plug from a 95 to 99 and splice it to the wires going to your round-plug and leave the yellow wire out of the equation. It's not required on the 95 to 99 unit. These alts were part of a recall campaign and are about $75 from the dealer for the high-quality "Remanufactured for Subaru" units. It's a sweet deal on the best quality money can buy. A Bosch reman for the round-plug style you have now runs about $140 so it's worth the extra work. The newer units are also about 10 amps higher output IIRC. GD

It really doesn't work that way. The teeth are case hardened and once the outer surface of the gear teeth is compromised - failure of a complete and total nature will result almost immediately. If its not making horrific gnashing or howling noises or hasn't bound up completely.... It's fine. Seriously when a rear diff goes you will be dragging one or both wheels down the road as they will seize up. GD

Some of the holes on that plate are very small. Was the plate removed and the gaskets on both sides of it replaced after fully cleaning and polishing the plate? I clean them with a roto-loc disc in my die grinder because the gaskets get stuck to the plate and don't easily come off. No voltage causes full line pressure to be sent to the clutch pack - which causes them to lock. Full voltage (100% duty cycle) unlocks the clutch - by cutting off the line pressure. But the same thing will happen regardless of the voltage to the solenoid if there is no line pressure for it to lock the clutch pack with. As Ivan noted above - there is a plug on the extension housing where you can check line pressure to the clutch packs. You will have to look up what that pressure should be - I don't know it off the top of my head. Extremely unlikely. And you would have seen massive amounts of metal in the extension housing when it was removed and metal swirl in the pan fluid. GD

With the larger 2-pot brakes you must use 15" or larger wheels. If you have single pot calipers now then you must have a Legacy L rather than an Outback or GT which would have the 2-pot brakes standard. If you have 14" wheels the larger brakes will not fit inside them. GD

Then you most probably have no line pressure to your clutch pack. When they changed the duty-c did they replace the valve body and both of the gaskets on the orifice plate under it? GD

No - shouldn't matter. Just use your intake and drill/tap the EGR port if needed. None of that stuff is on the engine block - it's all on the intake- which you will use the 2.5 intake so it doesn't matter. GD

You do not have an LSD. When you spin a tire on an open diff when the driveline is attached to something like a transfer case or clutch pack that is not engaged then the power will transfer to either the opposite wheel or the driveline - whichever has less friction. Subaru rear diffs are hard like a coffin nail. Your rear diff isn't broken. If it was it would be making horrific noises and you would know.... GD

'95 will work fine on the scangauge I'm sure. But a cheaper (and better IMO) solution is to get a bluetooth to OBD-II adaptor and buy the Torque app for your Android device. About $35 total. GD

I use: NPW Water Pumps. Mitsuboshi Timing Belts. Koyo and NTN idlers. NTN tensioners. The rest really doesn't matter as long as you install it properly. The only things I buy from the dealer are head gaskets, thermostats, and some select other gaskets and most of the hoses. Upper/lower radiator and water pump bypass, etc. I've found the aftermarket molded heater core hoses are a good fit and a better bargain. The radiator hoses not so much and I've tried every brand out there for the water pump bypass and they all just suck by comparison to OEM. I wouldn't touch a Carquest or NAPA part to save my life (let alone Autozone! I wouldn't even step foot in that horrible place). Not for a Subaru. Both are dirty, dirty words in my shop. I deal with an import parts supplier that has long-time employees that know their business. My rep has been there for 8 years and will bend over backward for me and my customers. I have never had a single failure or issue with the parts I get from them. GD

Jetting is dependant on engine size, condition, altitude, and a variety of other metrics including how it's going to be used. There is no "wrong" way to jet a carb unless it doesn't do what you wanted it to do. Jets of differing sizes must often be used because the size of each barrel of a progressive carb is often different. In the case of the common Weber DGV series the primary is 32mm and the secondary is 36mm in diameter. GD

You need to put a duty cycle meter on the duty-c signal. Or better yet an o-scope. You have no legal recourse with the dealer. They did not do the work. You had a hack shop do the work and they didn't know what they were looking at. Face it - you tried to cheap out and you lost. If you had the dealer do the work you would have a legit complaint - similarly if you had the independent do the dignosis and buy the parts you would be covered. But you didn't - you screwed yourself by buying your own parts and telling a monkey to swap them out on YOUR recommendation. The dealer is right to say they will not deal with this further - they don't know if what they recommended was even done correctly! I own a shop and would say the same thing - take a walk! So now you are screwed. Sorry dude. GD

The DEALERSHIP didn't do the repair. You took it elsewhere which means any inspection of parts durring the repair process that would have indicated a failure in another location (such as pristene clutch pack plates) was invisible to them. The shop you had do the actual work is to blame for not looking at that clutch pack and seeing it obviously in good condition - this would indicate that a failed duty-c should have been causing torque bind - not a loss of AWD. They gave their best estimate of the problem - which was clearly a failed duty-c solenoid due to the code. The usual repair path on a problem of that nature is to replace the duty-c and the clutch pack while you are in there. You can't hold them responsible for reccomending what any shop would reccomend under those circumstances. For all they knew the duty-c had been out for long enough to destroy the clutch pack. That's what any reasonable mechanic would have assumed and since you DID have a bad duty-c solenoid..... their repair path was 100% valid. You are just angry over what amounts to bad luck. Anyone here and any Subaru shop in the country would have reccomended the EXACT same thing. Now if you had the dealer do the work they probably would have seen the pristene clutch pack, not replaced it, and told you that the electrical problem is solved but the AWD system is still not working properly. It is possible that you simply have a bad TCU due to a prolonged bad duty-c. The duty-c driver circuit could have failed and now the transmission is fine but the TCU can't activate the AWD..... or your FWD fuse is installed. In any case you have NO REASON to be angry with anyone but the repair shop that blindly installed a clutch pack you didn't need - which could only be known once they had the old one out. The dealer certainly is not at fault and they were totally in the right to have you forcibly removed from the premisis. GD

I do HG's all the time with ALL the trimmings for $1200 to $1400 depending on which engine and if it needs a clutch or not. Find a good honest independant in your area to take care of it for him. GD

Yeah that's a problem. Get a new coil - and not one of those aftermarket garbage coil's either. Either get a real Hitachi/ND coil or get an MSD, etc that's still made in the US factory. GD

Yep - bolts right up and runs fine. Talk to Whitedog - he just did one in an '03. Use the flywheel and clutch from the 2.5. It will work just fine. You *may* have to drill and tap the EGR port on the 2.2 if it doesn't have one. It's a pretty large metric tap and they aren't cheap. The set I bought for the phase-I engines was over $40 for a tap and bottoming tap. The phase-II's are larger and more expensive still. GD

That's the biggest problem I have with those plates. That's going to cause uneccesary stress on the input shaft bearings on the MT's and on the oil pump on the auto. I'm in the process of refining my plate design and it will have reemed dowel pin holes that are a net-zero fit with the pins. It's also aluminium and less costly. The problem is that he has the dowel pin holes cut with the laser - same as the rest of the plate. Laser isn't accurate enough and leaves a hard slag on the surface so the holes have to be enlarged. Our plates are water jet cut and then the dowel pin holes are reemed to an exact match. GD

Unlikely. The chamber size would probably be too large to insure proper sealing of the fire ring from the smaller cylinder diameter. You could likely use EJ20T heads though if you wanted more flow. Still a waste of time though. GD

EJ22 rebuilding is simply not viable economically. Buy a used one with 120k on it for $500, do a timing belt and WP and be done with it. They are not expensive enough used to consider rebuilding. EJ25's..... maybe. Depends on the condition. EJ22 rebuild (anything involving the bottom end) is silly and a waste of money. GD

It's an EA82 - run it till it blows up. Not a serious problem. I've seen this on many engines with failed HG's. Doesn't seem to affect them much. GD

For best HG adhesion you *should* deck the block. If your machinist can't do that - you need to find another machinist. Mine rebuilds Subaru engines just about ever day. He decks 100% of the 25D blocks he does. He says he's had problems prior to this policy. GD

It's an EA82. There's a reason most of us dont like them. They are a low point in Subarus history. EA81's are much simpler and thus more reliable. And EJ22's are also simpler and thus more reliable. It's just the nature of those cars. No one ever puts the EA82 into another body. It's always being replaced by EA81's and EJ22's. Now you know why GD

The key is having the right solder, electronics grade flux, and a good adjustable wattage iron. GD

My machinist does them for me. He does Subaru engines quite often and grinds cranks, etc. http://stevesprecisionmachine.com/ GD

Do the plug wires go through the valve covers? If so its a phase-II. If not its a phase-I. 98 2.5 is solid lifter. Bucket/shim. GD