GeneralDisorder

You check the cam sensor? Cam and crank are both prone to having damaged wiring. GD

I can pickup and walk around with a shortblock or lift it to the bench top easily. I recall the 22T I shipped to the east coast was either 75 lbs and $67 shipping or 67 lbs and $75 shipping.... :-p At any rate I don't think it's more than a 90 lb sack of concrete. Considerably less I do beleive. The long block is going to be about 150lbs. I lift these in and out of my truck quite often - one person on each side. I attach the engine stand adaptor to them first and then slide them into the stand. Easy lift for two people. GD

Often you can make a seal tool with some carefully selected PVC or ABS pipe bits from Home Depot, etc. The FWD bearing adaptors from Harbor Freight generally do handle seals also. I've used it for that a time or two. If all else fails - carefully work your way around the seal using a hammer and a punch with a large flat end on it to spread the load out as much as you can. I also often use a large socket that fits the seal or the drive end of a slightly smaller socket held out against the edge of the seal and struck with a hammer on the same side.... it definitely takes a steady eye though when you aren't using the right tool. I have thought about making a stepped seal driver for that intermediate seal because it's so small and easily deformed. A stepped driver would take out the guesswork by shouldering itself on the outside of the bearing housing and being exactly the right diameter to mate with the seal. I recently upgraded to a Hub Grappler from OTC so I'm living large now. I did plenty of bearing jobs with the harbor freight unit but mine started to disintegrate and I was leaving a lot of metal shavings behind from the tool eating itself. Mind you it's got several dozen wheel bearings on it now so I got my $89 out of it. $420 shipped for the Hub Grappler kit. Worth it for me. GD

About 65 lbs I would guess. GD

90 to 98 for phase-I 99 to 01 for phase-II GD

The ones I deal with around here aren't going to have any EA82 stuff I'm afraid. It's getting hard to find '95 EJ22's from my sources - they don't buy them from the auctions cause they sit on them for too long and the value of the parts is low because of their age. www.car-part.com is the best source. That's how I've found all the places I deal with for newer stuff. I did buy an EA82 short block not long ago with 115k on it. Got it for $75 from a little podunk yard a ways out of town. But they aren't a consistent source - just happened to have one. GD

Your english has improved a lot over the years. Quite amazing considering that I don't suppose you speak it much on a daily basis? Simply amazing. Nice write up too. Good information. GD

There's a lot more than one bearing in the transmission. There are two roller bearings per shaft for a total of 4 main bearings. That could be one of the rollers from the pinion shaft main bearing by the looks of it - which would be almost directly above the drain plug. There's 7 seals actually - counting the o-rings for the diff carrier bearing adjusters, and the speedo drive shaft seal. May be one on the shift rod also.... GD

www.car-part.com is your friend. Look for a short block - and don't just look local. Shipping on a short block isn't bad - like $75 typically. GD

The EA81 was the engine of choice for years in the bug community. They do have distributors with vac advance... they were factory carbed. The EJ22 can be run with a distributor. They had them in Europe and they have a plate that can be removed from the passenger side head to run a distributor off the cam. People use Ford Escort distributors typically. Then you just have to build a manifold to suit a carb - the EJ FI manifolds are pretty tall though because they don't include the coolant cross-over as part of the manifold like the carb manifolds in Europe did. Which doesn't leave a lot of space on top for a carb to sit. Though you could do a side-draft carb probably. For my money - the '95+ OBD-II fuel injection is the way to go. More power and better reliability. A harness from a '95 manual transmission Legacy is a perfect donor. They run really good and the ability to plug in a $30 bluetooth adaptor and data log your engine with a $5 smart phone app is totally worth the effort. GD

You can swap over to rear discs without problem but for it to be totally correct you will need rear disc parking brake cables for the '95. Due to length and mounting point considerations it is unlike that the '00 cables will work. The drum cables will not fit the backing plate correctly but can be made to work if you want to grind the end down so it fits into the backing plate and adjust the cable tension, etc to compensate. GD

Those are mostly likely rollers from a bearing. GD

Cheaper and faster to buy a used, running engine and drop it in. Almost always. I do engine swaps like crazy around here - I've done three 2.5 to 2.2 swaps this month. As well as a 4AFE in a '91 Corolla. That's an engine a week.... all of them came from reputable recyclers - the most mileage on any of them was 137k on one of the 2.2's that went into a '99 OBW - the other two had 84k and 97k and the 4AFE had 111k. ALL of them run completely perfect. Carefully consider who you are buying from, get compression numbers, and pull the valve covers to look for varnish and carbon. I get a surprising number of engines that have had very regular maintenance - probably with synthetic oil as some of them look like the day they rolled off the lot inside. GD

Check your crank and cam sensor wiring. GD

Not true. The lines are not empty after losing pressure. Without pressure the fuel will not flow through the injectors - it will just stay in the lines and the filter. 1.5 to 2 seconds is plenty of time to repressurize the the lines. May not be a fuel pressure issue at all - but the logic used above is flawed. GD

Looks like normal casting defects to me. None of that matters. Aisin or NPW are the best. Preference to the Aisin. Paraut is also good but very hard to find any possibly no longer being branded as such since I haven't seen one in years. GD

Don't weld - you will create hard spots in the metal from the electrical arc and there's no need for it. Get an end-mill (4 flute center-cut) of the right diameter and punch out the holes in a drill press or mill. GD

Sounds like the spider gears are shredded. Probably a chunk of gear tooth, etc got between the ring gear the case while it was spinning. Sadly it's toast - whatever happened in there.... well you won't be fixing it with some JB weld for the crack. Retaining gear oil will not lengthen it's life in a meaningful way :-p GD

Sounds like the front diff gave out. GD

Kinda, yes. From a practicality standpoint.... the EA82 is long and heavy like the Legacy was to begin with. IMO the money spent on doing an EJ swap would be better spent doing a D/R swap into a Legacy. And for the costs and complexity of the EJ engine swap you could import an EJ D/R from europe and get 4.11 or 4.44 gearing out of the deal. EJ swaps should be reserved for things like RX's, and the Brat/Hatch - because of their collectible value and cool factor and because the Hatch is small and light so it benefits from the power a lot more. A lot of people are doing it to have something unique.... so I guess you can't put a price on that. But for pure functionality - it's a huge waste of time and resources. I can out-wheel almost any EA in a stock first-gen Forester automatic and the price for one of those is down to about $2500 or less. Last one I bought for $1500 with a bad radiator. Tell me how you are going to buy an EA82, EJ swap it, lift it, and wheel like that Forester can in stock form for $1500?? Answer.... you aren't. GD

EGR light is a mileage tripped service reminder light on your car. It has nothing to do with engine operation. It comes on every 60k miles. Chain-store brake monkey rebuilds carb FTMFL! :-p Sorry but that's hilarious. People that work at places like that have recently stepped up from shaking fry's out of a basket. The place is called Brake Team and I wouldn't even let them do brakes! GD

I can do it for you - the cost is going to be around $700 labor. You will have to source the parts - clutch/flywheel, pedal assembly and clutch cable, transmission, driveline, rear diff, etc. Figure on spending around $500 on good condition used parts as well as a new clutch, clutch cable, etc. I'm sure that it would be out the door for around $1200. And yes - I have done this before and I do know all about bypassing the neutral start inhibitor, and how to tell the ECU it's a manual, etc. There is a good amount of wiring needed to interface the manual with the automatic harness - making the reverse lights and neutral switch, work and making the ECU think it's a manual without throwing codes at you, etc. Cheaper to just buy a car with one already in it these days.... but entirely up to you. GD

Probably a bad rebuild. Who did you have do this? It's not likely that adjusting the choke will help. For one thing the choke is factory adjusted and not supposed to be changed. Same with the idle mixture. Sadly rebuilding these is money wasted - the solution for economy, performance, and reliability is to install a Weber 32/36 DGV. They are down to about $199 for the carb. Then you just need the filter and adaptor plate and some JB weld to block the coolant port on the intake. Should easily get the job done for $275 if you do it yourself. If you want a Subaru of that vintage to be economical you should most likely learn to do your own wrenching. Otherwise it's just going to nickle and dime you constantly. A combination of old technology such as the carb, elderly components, and a design that is unfamilair to most run-of-the-mill mechanics makes paying for someone to wrench on an EA81 or EA82 generally a losing proposition. Even with someone such as myself doing the work it's going to be less economical than a first generation Legacy - simply due to the Legacy being virtually the same entry price and being a lot more reliable in general. Easier to work on as well. GD

They make ALL the NAPA filter. Carquest too. I use them if I can't get to the dealer. GD

It has a BOV. Run. GD