GeneralDisorder

I'm going to talk with my machinist about this. See if he even has the tooling for this work. GD

I replace bearings all the time - $150 installed including parts. But I have a hub tamer and I've done dozens of them. It's a pretty routine job at my shop. GD

They used at least five different part numbers for floor pans. The manual 4WD being the largest. Rear diff ratio must match the transmission - auto is likely 3.7 while a five speed is 3.9. GD

Sounds like you are extremely close to me. I'm in willamette near the 10th street exit. You should drop by my garage sometime so you can get an idea of what you can do and get some realistic expectations for your future mods. GD

You need quite a few parts - clutch and flywheel, pedal assembly and cable, transmission, driveline, rear diff, etc. The transmission tunnel on the auto is smaller than the manual and the 5 speed has trouble clearing even the manual transmission tunnel so you have to do some beating or cutting/welding in that area as well as tilt the transmission and engine a few degree's backward..... it can be done though. GD

EA and Legacy diffs are all the same except for stub style. Internally they are identical and if you made a locker for one it would fit both. I have a crapload of 3.7 and some 3.9 diffs and diff parts in my shed. Probably will never use any of them due to their ratio's - almost any conceiveable replacement I would need would be 4.11 or 4.44 and probably for a '95+ that doesn't use the bolt-in stubs. Anyway - you can have whatever diff parts you want - just haul em off. GD

I can now report that this mod also works on the older 85/86 orange digi-dash as well. You have to put the 1k resistor across the same 36k resistor in the tach circuit but on the orange dash circuit board it's in a different location and is labeled as "R50". It's just to the left of the connector with the tach pin on the back of the board. It's difficult to access from the resistor side of the board as it is partially obscured by a permanently mounted ribbon cable so I had to remove the circuit board and put the 1k resistor on the back side of the board. Tach works great.... GD

You would have to buy the whole knuckle. There is not a seperate bearing assembly that bolts in like some other designs. You will need either a press or a hub tamer style tool set to install them. These cannot be done with a hammer and punch, etc. GD

Overtightening of the square cross-section gaskets will cause them to bunch up. You need to REMOVE the gasket from the filter, lubricate both sides of it, and then install it evenly by pushing it down into the filter body in a star pattern. Then install hand tight plus 1/8 turn. More tightness will only result in further leakage or compressing the gasket till the filter body touches the block. Fought with this many times on large compressor filters. Even did some tests with lubricated and unlubricated gaskets and torque wrenches - proved that you can't make them seal with more torque. One of the reasons the OEM filter is much superior is that it has a captured gasket that is incapable of bunching. GD

Ford F-150 pump. GD

Try the fitment of a new pilot bearing. The ID of that old one may be enlarged. You can buy speedi-sleeves in any size you like. Just have to measure. Since that's an off-the-shelf bearing (6202 IIRC) the shaft repair sleeve for that size will be very common. Attach the sleeve with one of the loctite sleeve retainers (609/620/640) that is commensurate with the clearance between the worn shaft and the repair sleeve..... GD

Sounds like a mess - I've done heli-coil's on EA82's and frankly it's a pain in the neck even without having the hole drilled all wonky. He's likely going to have to *mill* the hole out at this point.... and that's just not really cost effective when you can pickup used EA82 short blocks for $75 to $125. I say throw it away and put the machine shop money into a good used engine or short block. These just aren't cost effective to repair when damaged to that degree. GD

~21 psi. 1.5 to 3 is for carbs - which were discontinued after '87. GD

I use a wobbly spark plug socket, a 1" extension, and a 1" "wobble" extension. You definitely do put the plug in the socket, then feed the socket and extensions down the hole - then attach your ratchet. You can also just jack up the side of the engine - may have to disconnect exhaust and pitching stopper. Removing the valve covers will give you a lot more room also. If they need resealed anyway.... GD

The exhaust gasses are hot, but not nearly as hot as combustion itself once they have recirculated. The key is that exhaust gasses are INERT. That is they have no combustable components anymore. They are recirculated under part-throttle cruise to displace fuel/air and lower NOx emissions. It does NOT rob power, and it is not a source of component failure generally speaking. It takes exactly one vacuum hose to late ported vacuum to run it. There's no benefit to removing it at all. Since when did they do away with it? I've personally swapped engines on as late as 2006 and in fact it's just the opposite - they ALL have EGR's now - used to be some manual transmission EJ's didn't have them. Now they all do. GD

You don't need the tool. Put sockets under the bolts that go through the rockers arms and tighten them as normal. Then pull out only the ones for the rocker assembly, install it, and torque them back down. GD

You will likely need it to pass emissions. It doesn't harm anything. I would leave it. GD

No need to check them. Clean them up and check for flatness at the same time with 220 grit wet/dry and glass. GD

The type you want to make if you are planning on actually making your own LSD is a Torsen type 1. It's 100% mechanical and much easier to build than the clutch types. GD

4 speed will be about 25 to 27 MPG in mixed driving. Over 30 will be with 100% freeway driving on long trips. 4 speed's are junk - 3rd gear syncro issues, lousy linkage system that's always loose - skip it and go to the 5 speed. DL will have a single range 4 speed in it anyway. High range only. GD

Fuel pump only runs when cranking or running and for 1.5 seconds at key-on to prime the rail. What you are seeing is normal for all vehicles with electric fuel pumps.... Since the common use of then began in the late 70's. Have you checked for codes? There has to be good cam and crank sensor inputs to the ECU or it will not fire the plugs/injectors because it doesn't know when to do so. GD

No - it's not the contact per-se. The circuit that feeds the starter solenoid spade terminal from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the inhibitor switch on the automatic shifter, etc. Any poor connections at these various places will result in the solenoid not kicking out hard enough to make good contact inside. GD

Not really worth the effort. Not unless you also do higher compression pistons, port/polish the heads, and change the cam. The engine isn't setup for that much air. The EA82 carb intake is easier - you can buy a new adaptor that already fits it. The SPFI intake has just as much coolant flowing through it as all the others. You have to have a place for the coolant the cross over from one head to the other. GD

Yep - power (black wire with red insulator) goes to the + side. Yellow wire goes to the - side. GD

12v but the amps are also important. If the connections for the crank circuit are poor the solenoid will not shift hard enough to make good contact and the motor won't turn - you'll just get a click. GD