GeneralDisorder

I count 9.... two rotors, one crank, and 6 apex-seals (not counting the springs seperately). Apex-seals are more of a problem than EJ timing belts It's only about 3 hours to change an EJ water pump. Shouldn't have to drive it that way for long. GD

Has nothing to do with it being an "aftermarket" water pump. For one thing the OEM pump for your engine would have a cast iron impeller that isn't even coated - at least that thing was probably coated with something at one point. And Subaru has, since like '08 or so, switched to the stamped impellers on their OEM pumps as well. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that water pump. GD

That has nothing to do with the water pump. That's from someone running straight water or anti-freeze that's a decade old. Based on that water pump.... I would throw the engine, radiator, and all the hoses in the dumpster and I *might* condemn the heater core also. That's BAD. I would be surprised if you can save that engine. GD

It would appear that the shop who did your transmission repair left out the air vent plug in the top of the radiator. What is supposed to go there is a plastic plug with phillips slots in it. You remove that plug when filling the radiator with coolant to bleed the air from the system. They may have removed the radiator to get at the transmission cooler line near the bottom and in doing so drained out the coolant then left this plug out or loose. Check your bill to see if you were charged for coolant.... I would be talking to them about fixing this. GD

My most recent trip with a 2.2 was in a '96 Outback 5MT - over the mountains headed from Portland to K-falls the car got 27.5 and then on the way from there to Reno, NV it was almost 29. For around town driving you are about right. But for long freeway trips you should be quite a bit higher. GD

EA81's didn't have them. And yes there must be room for expansion so there will always be an air pocket at the top of the radiator. That's how all older cars without overflows work. GD

The frequency is basically 100%. Perhaps you don't want to admit that. Doesn't mean it isnt so. Every single one of these engines I see is weeping oil from *at least* the drivers side head by the first t-belt change. I will not install a 251/253 without HG change nor will i sell one without them being done. Blanket policy. Works great for me and my customers. I have an '04 Impreza sitting here with 101k and weeping HG on the drivers side. He would like it fixed. I will oblige him. GD

Symptoms are usually going to include pushing coolant into the overflow bottle when it overheats. Often overflowing the bottle. It's generally not that difficult to bleed the air from these. One of two things is happening - bad thermostat or bad head gaskets. GD

Any visible wear on the cone washer is unacceptable. If in doubt replace it. Dealer only. Bearings will not always have visible play. If you suspect them pull the axle and check for roughness. GD

Sounds like classic HG failure to me. GD

Usually that's from HG's weeping coolant leading to overheat conditions. The oil coolers keep the oil temp down which prolongs oil life - that in turn means that people who aren't religious about their oil changes can slide through a few more thousand before the oil turns to tar. GD

You need a new alternator. GD

Depends on how you classify failure. It is my experience that 99 to 06 HG failure is around 100%. They pretty much all weep oil from the drivers side - some weep coolant as well. Some also weep from the passenger side. If you can live with it thats fine. But the failure is still there. Sometimes its not enough to worry about but that really depends on the owner. For a lot of folks the knowledge that its leaking is too much to live with. I replace a lot of these engines and work on a ton of these cars. My reccomendations are based on that experience and what maintenance items are required on a new vehicle. T-belt kit and HG's ARE what I recommend for a trouble free 105k. And people that follow my reccomendations are very happy with their cars. GD

You just aren't listening. I've told you that it could be the wheel bearings or the cone washer. How many times do you suppose I've been to this rodeo? I do this for a living ya know.... GD

'98 if you want to do a 2.2 swap. '99 and up are great rigs if taken care of. Do the HG's first thing. The automatic's have oil coolers and it prolongs engine life dramatically. GD

I understand what you are saying but *here* it is NOT viable to open a 2.2 for ANY reason. Replacements are cheap and I get a warrantee on them generally. Also I use almost engines from almost exclusively automatic's for my 2.5 replacements. I just bought a 2.2 yesterday. Came from a '95 Impreza with 97k on it. You could eat off the inside of the valve covers. Owned by an elderly lady - took a hard hit in the drivers side rear quarter. I heard it run before they pulled it. Could barely hear it running..... $550. And that's not an unusal deal at all. I've bought at least three others in the last few months with under 150k and in similarly amazing condition. One I got for $350! Again - of the DOZENS of EJ22's I've bought not a single one has come back. I get compression results, I check for internal varnish and sludge, and I get a warrantee. If I opened them all up I couldn't do the volume of EJ25D to EJ22 swaps that I do - it wouldn't be viable. It would add $1500 to the cost. I do EJ22 swaps for $1400 out the door - that's engine, timing components, resealed, labor included. GD

You had to beat the axle out of them and pull it back through them.... could have changed things. There's write-ups around here on wheel bearings. You need to dissasemble it and inspect carefully. Feel the bearings - both inner and outer. Check for play, etc. You could also have a messed up cone washer that won't secure the axle to the hub. They should be replaced if there is ANY damage to them. They cannot be cleaned up with a file, etc as lost material will lead to no clamping force. GD

Roll pin is a 6mm. You could have a bad wheel bearing also. Depending on how they fail they can easily make knocking noises. GD

251 block, crank, rods (or '99 25D). 96 25D pistons. 22E heads with roller's. It's somewhere around 12:1 or a bit higher. The key is the '96 25D pistons. They are much higher compression due to the larger combustion chambers of the '96 25D heads. The 2.5 is a stroked AND bored 2.2 anyway. I don't see the point in the lower displacement 22E block when 2.5 stuff is so plentiful and cheap. I'm drowning 2.5 blocks that want some level of rebuilding. Basically get them for free doing 2.2 swaps. GD

I've installed dozens of used engines without a problem. I do it quite regularly - you check them out and it's pretty obvious if they have been abused - the varnish level inside the engine, the compression results, etc. GD

Yesir that will do it every time. Aren't you glad you asked before doing HG's needlessly? GD

The accesory pulley (harmonic balancer) doesn't need a key at all. Torque it down and call it good. 120 ft/lbs or so will hold it on there nicely. Cut the bad section of the key away - you do not want to drag the sprocket across the messed up key. Then pull off the sprocket - and order a new key from the dealer. GD

In the United States they did. GD

Your engine is non-interferance - no need for OEM belt and water pump. Call Mizumoauto (ebay ID) and get a kit with the Aisin water pump and the Mitsuboshi timing belt. Their tensioners have NTN bearings just like the factory one's. I have used several dozen of their kits without problems. Just remember to reuse the bolt and sleeve from your old tensioner idler as the replacements from Mizumo are too short. GD

You think I would sugest it if I haven't been there before? As Ivan said it's a losing battle on an engine worth 1/3 the cost of my living room sofa. EJ22's are worth zilch. I can get tested engines with a warrantee for $450 that don't burn a drop. Why would you ever bother to get inside it? With proper care they last 300k+. Replacements are one week's pay for the average guy. Replacement is the ONLY economically viable solution. Drop it in the dumpster, replace it with a good one, and keep up on regular oil changes with synthetic. GD