GeneralDisorder

Yep - could go at any time. And it will destroy a lot of expensive parts if it completely fails. ABS parts and the hub for certain. Probably brake components as well. Wheel could come off.... but that is less likely. GD

Compression test is useless for HG checking. So is a pressure test on the 251's where they leak externally. Won't show anything useful. Check the head to block seam for evidence of coolant seepage. GD

Carb distributors are two wire - one to each terminal of the coil. Power for the pickup, and the signal wire to fire the coil. GD

Are you missing the reinforcing plate that goes over the flex plate bolt pattern before the bolts go in? GD

If the whole car hasn't been disintegrated by an alien ray gun..... it's possible to fix anything. GD

There were never any points/condensor style distributors made for that engine. They did make carbed versions but they have electronic pickup's in them. They are very reliable and never require adjustment or replacment so I don't really see the advantage of points. GD

Soldering the battery terminals to the wire is the prefered method. Crimping is not needed. Get yourself some quality welding/battery cable wire, the correct copper solder-slug style terminals, and heavy duty heat shrink with sealant incorporated. All you need is the cable, terminals, heat shrink, and a propane torch with solder/flux or solder slugs. The smaller gauge wires - such as the body ground or fusible link supply wire can be soldered into the terminals along with the cables. Of course you will want to solder copper lugs on the other ends of the cable for fastening them to the starter, block, etc. Here is one supplier of such materials. I haven't used them personally but it looks like they have the right supplies. I have a local supplier and you might check around your area and see who does terminals and lugs, etc. http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d242_battery_terminals.html GD

No - he said the AC is between the PS and Alt. That is inboard - which is factory AC. Also it's a GL-10 which would ALWAYS have factory AC. Irregardless - don't get a water pump from Autozone, or GMB, or any of the regular parts chains - they are cheap and the failure rate is high. The NPW and Aisin pumps are both made in Japan and are of very high quality. GD

Stick with the stock intake. It prevents the engine from ingesting water. That's the point of the snorkel under the fender. It's also a cold air intake as it doesn't draw air from the engine bay - if you put on a cone filter with a MAF adaptor it will be a warm air intake and you will both reduce your performance and potentially harm your engine via water ingestion. GD

Water pump length is determined by the AC - if it was factory equipped with AC it uses one hub height and if it wasn't it uses another. I can't remember which is which at the moment. Personally I would buy both (either Aisin or NPW and those are the ONLY brands I will use) and just use whichever one it takes. Duralast (as with virtually everything from Vatozone) is crap. I refuse to shop there. For tensioners - just order the belt/idler/tensioner kit from ebay for $65 shipped. GD

Hook your jumper cables directly to the positive post on the starter and to the engine block - then with a jumper wire from the positive post touch the starter solenoid spade terminal. Should kick the starter over if it's good. GD

Apperance is meaningless on the flywheel. Have it surfaced. If you already repaired the quill then it should be fine. Continue to use the T/O and quill repair that are currently in the car. Get the Exedy clutch kit and replace the pilot, disc, and plate. Have the flywheel surfaced and insure the T/O slides smoothly. Some play between the quill and T/O is ok. That will not cause the juddering. GD

Not to rain on your parade, but I think you are being unrealistic. I wouldn't expect you not to be at your age though. First - when you do get a job and move out - you will not be in a position to do lots of fancy upgrades to NED, or any other car for that matter. Bills suck, and at your education and experience level you will be at around the $12/Hr range if you luck out. Probably more like $10 - maybe less. That's $400 a week before taxes - you will be lucky to take home $325 of it. That's about $1300 a month.... with rent, utilities, cell phone, car insurance, food, and a few amenities there will be NOTHING left. Not to mention no place to work on cars.... Your best bet to live comfortably is to partner up with a roomate, girlfriend, etc. But they won't be happy if all your money goes to car upgrades that you don't *need*. Ultimately you are going to have to find your niche where you can rise above the daily grind. I did it for 10 years and had a few decent jobs in that time - making more than you will likely start out making even today - with lower cost of living. I still had basically nothing for the majority of that time. Mostly due to financial irresponsibility but that is exactly what bi-weekly paychecks engender in most people. The concept of living paycheck to paycheck is made much easier when you only have to wait two weeks for the next one. Thus people that are payed regularly and often tend to blow all their money quickly and have nothing by the next paycheck. It's easy to survive for two weeks with no money. Much, MUCH harder when you only get payed monthly and virtually impossible if you get payed quarterly or in longer increments. Thus people that don't get regular paychecks quickly figure out how to be financially responsible - the consequences of not doing so being a LOT more severe. And don't think that this fact isn't known by all the big corporations. They would love nothing more than for you to be a wage slave for the rest of your life. They give you a little bit each week or each couple weeks because they know you can't be trusted with a larger amount and because if they did pay monthly or longer you would soon learn how to save money and then you wouldn't be so easy to lead around with a leash. People who aren't in danger of being homeless without their next paycheck tend to not be as easily coerced against unions, and labor movements, etc. Realizing how business keeps people down like this made me stop spending and get out of the daily grind. I learned that financial responsibility is more important than car upgrades, big TV's, and cool cell phones. I did without. And now I'm being rewarded - I'm seen by my family and others as responsible - my business is doing well - and now I have all those things in abundance and I don't worry about how I'm going to pay my bills. GD

The SS uses a pull type turbo clutch system. The TS will not work. GD

In that last picture - you need to block off the ports that went to the AIS reed valves. Those are open to the inside of the filter element so you can suck unfiltered air into your carb if you don't block them. GD

You don't need those valves - they are the Air Injection System. The whole idea was to inject fresh oxygen between the exhaust pulses for the catalyst to work more efficiently. The newer catalysts don't require this and if you put in a $50 ebay cat you won't need those valve or pipes or associated plumbing anymore. GD

Those are the air injection pipes - they supply fresh oxygen for the old style catalyst to function properly. If you put in a new aftermarket catalytic converter you won't need those pipes anymore. Since you do need the spacers to mate up to the exhaust you should just cut the pipe off with about 1" of it left sticking out - then hammer the pipe flat and run a weld bead across the flattened end. GD

If it's a Hitachi distributor - the pickup is the same as used on some 80's Honda's - if you lookup the part number on rockauto then put it into Amazon they come up really cheap. Worth having an extra in the glove box. You just pry off the reluctor with a couple screwdrivers and bolt in the new pickup. Very simple. GD

Drilled and slotted rotors are no longer needed with modern pad materials. They chew up pads something aweful - basically like a cheese grater on your pads. They are for show - and people who actually know what they are looking at aren't impressed. You talk about doing all this stuff to NED - but you never have any money. I think your focus should be getting a job and moving out of your parents house. In the scheme of life this is far more important than performance brakes on your 85 HP 4-lug econo-sedan. GD

We still have quite a few out here. Curious - what was your solution to the pickup coil? Those are only about $30 on Amazon and take a whole 10 minutes to replace. $300 in '05 was a really steep quote. Those guys still in business? GD

Standard practice. That's a great way to do it IMO. GD

I pay $250 each for complete valve job, bucket/shim clearance setting and resurface/pressure test. Sounds like a rip-off to me. GD

Kill switch. Disable the fuel pump ground. GD

The reasons are: 1. The design was a solution looking for a problem. Subaru built EA81 dual-carb engines in Japan with 108 HP and no turbo. The overhead cam layout of the EA82(T) with all it's additional complexity, additional width, timing belts, ticking lifters, etc was simply not neccesary. They wanted to use the hot buzzword of the day - "SOHC" - in their literature. It was also a test platform for timing belts in general which were a fairly new technology in '85 and completely untried by Subaru to that point. Make no mistake though - there's nothing the EA82 can do that the EA81 can't do just as well or better if built up correctly. 2. On turbo's specifically the head castings have a design flaw that causes them to crack into the exhaust ports from the cooling jackets. This can be mitigated by keeping the temps low and not stressing the design to it's limits (IE: more boost) and some folks have made good power for a long time despite this - but there is no safety margin. Push the boost up, run it hard, and pray you don't have a cooling system failure because one little mistake and that will be the end of it. There's no forgiveness here. 3. When put up against the EA81 and the EJ22 - the engines that came before and after it - the EA82 looks very sickly. It's much harder to work on than either of it's siblings, produces very little more power than a hi-po EA81, and the EJ22 has got it beat in power, gas mileage, and reliability without even having a turbo at all. That makes the EA82T look pretty sad by comparison. 4. Have you ever worked on one of these nightmares? If you have you will quickly come to the same conclusion as everyone else here. Not worth the time and headache. GD

They slide in and out of the tips of the rotor. That's what allows the odd shaped housing to seal against the rotor. They are the equivelent to piston rings but the rotory puts them under significant stress. Oil consumption due to apex seal failure in those engines is a problem. GD