GeneralDisorder

Vise grips and a hammer to get the EGR pipe off. Clean or replace the pipe and the passages in the manifold and head. Definitely your problem. GD

About $35 for a harness from my yards. EJ22T harness isn't anything special - couple extra wires that can easily be added to any OBD-I harness - especially if you are stripping it for a swap. The ECU's go for about $50 on legacycentral or car-part.com. Again they aren't that special or rare. GD

Temp gun? Shop gauge? Thermo-couple for your DMM? Lots of ways to check this. Asking us isn't the answer. My crystal ball has been broken since late last year..... GD

Injectors are ground controlled by the ECU. It should not have ground unless its being fired. it should have 12v with the ignition on. GD

Used O2's are not a real good idea. They don't last forever. Though you can "burn them out" with a propane torch and get some more life out of them usually. I get the NTK or Walker branded sensors and have had good results with both. Try amazon or rockauto. GD

It's the field flash circuit so you need the light - or at least a 12v ignition switched source. GD

Subaru stopped using common ground after the EA82. The 2000 radio will not have a common ground. GD

LOL. I should start doing that. I've got quite the collection of 25D's now. Like you I swap them for 2.2's on an alarmingly regular basis. GD

First of all - your system isn't holding pressure. You need to do a pressure test and find out where its leaking. If you can't find anything - don't forget to test the cap and check the seals and sealing surfaces in the radiator neck. Then once you have it sealed up you can get a temp gun and check your temps across the surface of the radiator... assuming you didn't replace the radiator in the first step which is entirelly possible. GD

95 to 98 is the best bet. The reason we do that is they are only $75 at the dealer due to a dealer initiated reman program for a recall campaign in those years. Make sure you have switched power to the yellow wire on the alt like we talked about - if you don't the alt won't charge. You also need the field flash wire hooked up through the idiot light in the dash or the alt will not charge. If you have the gauge cluster disconnected the alt will not work.... Insure that you have it hooked up correctly before you determine the alt is bad. GD

My supplier has had issues with the EMPI axles so they have primarily switched to the OPParts branded units. Made from the same components as the EMPI's (both get their components from the same company [probably GCK] in China). The biggest problem I have with both is poor boot quality. Also they don't have the same dimensions as the stock axles so when it comes time to replace a boot on one.... well I have had to have my supplier warrantee them over a failed boot because they couldn't get me a boot to fit it. If you have some axles with the original NTN brand joints and shaft you can call up Rockford Constand Velocity and get stars, balls, cages, and boots/clamps and rebuild them yourself. It's pretty easy and it's hard to justify throwing away the cup/claw and bar which are high quality Japanese components if they aren't destroyed. GD

Great info. I recently ran across a bad '99 speedo. Unfortunately I replaced it with a new one - wish I had seen this sooner. My dealer says this is a problem with ONLY '99s. They carry two speedo heads in stock just for this purpose. GD

Thanks - looks like you are coming along with your design. I know a thing or two about machining and I know people that know even more than I do. When/if we get to building these I would love to help out with sourcing parts, assembly, and logistics, etc. I know how to get stuff done... GD

Probably a little steep. I'm sure they gave you man-off-the-street pricing. If you got a business discount it would likely be about $50 for that hose. Which is completely reasonable IMO. I have occasion to have a lot of custom hoses and such made and I deal with a company that gives me the discount of my former employer - which is hefty. I just recently had 6 stainless brake lines made composed of 6 feet of braided stainless hose and 14 couplings - all for $185. GD

VERY bad idea. Don't you suppose they sized the wire and fuse for the coil to the amps it is going to draw? So now you want to add a high-amp draw heating element to this circuit? That's just asking to start a fire. GD

Yes - use the old outer race to drive in the new one. I get the new one started a bit with my small dead blown and just work my way around it till it is in far enough to correct it's own alignment. Then I use the old race to put the new one in to the full depth. GD

Any place that makes custom hoses can likely do it. Look under fittings, couplers, hydraulic/pneumatic in the phone book. GD

Are you sure it's the EGR temp sensor and not the EGR solenoid code? That's a california only sensor.... it will be in the EGR passage - so likely on the manifold near the EGR valve or pipe. GD

If you are getting that reading directly off the back of the alt then yes it's not charging right. That's a full volt low. If you are registering that at the battery then you could just be seeing voltage drop from the alternator to the battery so recheck at the back of the alt. GD

Should be 14.0 to 14.5v if the alt is working properly. GD

You are probably seeing the AT oil temp light flashing. That means there are stored codes in the TCU. GD

Voltage isn't messed with - it should already work. That gauge pulls it's reading from the cluster power source. Maybe you meant to ask about hooking up the alternator? VSS is generally pretty easy to trace - just follow the wires from the hall effect sensor on the speedo to where the speedo bolts to the circuit board. Then follow the traces to the connector and determine which pin they come out on. It's probably a yellow wire with a red trace. Temp you shouldn't have to mess with - just connect the wire from the EA engine's temp gauge sensor to the EJ temp sensor. It will read low but it will work. Basically if the gauge gets up to half-way it's overheating. GD

1.5 hours per rear wheel bearing for a total of 3 hours. You have to dissasemble the whole mess back there to get at them. Generally means readjusting the drums, cleaning and greasing brake components.... not to mention the axle splines like to rust on the outboard side. 1 hour for the seal and gear oil change (I would do both seals and the o-rings). .5 hours for the muffler. That's how I would bill it. GD

I've seen the occasional bad TCU. Had a bad one in a '90 Legacy - torque converter wouldn't go into lockup and was throwing a duty A (or is it B?) code.... turned out the solenoid was fine and the driver circuit in the TCU was bad. Easy fix. GD

From the sounds of things - the condition of the car and his lack of knowledge/experience - one of these races it's going to catch fire and burn to the ground. Sad that it's running the stock engine and wiring. That needs an EJ swap and new harness. GD