GeneralDisorder

There is no difference in how any of the MPT clutch pack's operate. That goes for all 4EAT's - '88 to present day. Fluid pressure is required to engage the AWD as with any hydraulic clutch pack as seen in any common modern automatic transmission. The difference is that the Subaru MPT clutch (Multi-Plate Transer for those not in the know) is designed to slip when the duty-c bleeds off a percentage of the fluid pressure via a PWM signal from the TCU. GD

The ECU can tell that the sensor is electrically bad. If you have a code then the sensor needs replaced or the wiring is faulty. GD

Your valve is likely fine. All you really need is the duty solenoid on top of the valve. I've had several instances of this situation after engine swaps. Every time I've put the solenoid from the old engine on the new valve its worked just fine. GD

That's the hard way. Swap the whole rail with a good used one with two good injectors. You don't need to depressurize the fuel system - just put a rag over the rail when you unbolt it. GD

Best way to do them is to pull the engine out and put it on a stand. But lots of people have done them in the car. It's not fun and its a lot of bending over and hard on your back. The gaskets and such that you will need run about $100. But you should also consider anything else it needs while you are in there.... Timing belt, water pump, etc. GD

Go to an o-ring supplier and match up the seals - get Viton. Use loctite 518 for the pump-to-block surface. Check your oil pressure with a shop gauge. Don't rely on the dash gauge. They arent accurate. GD

I replace head gaskets all the time - failure soon after a head gasket change has never happened to me. You have to evaluate if its worth doing the HG's or not of course but "a lot of miles" is not typically reason enough to condemn it. EJ head gaskets don't mix coolant and oil - they blow exhaust gasses into the coolant - the bubbles collect on the thermostat and insulate it from the hot coolant causing it to close - resulting in a temperature spike. That is ALWAYS how phase-I engines fail. GD

Not sure on when you would see current at the FWD fuse. Pull the codes - you need to start there before worrying about the FWD fuse. GD

Find a way to start and end your sentences. I would reccomend punctuation..... but I'm sure a google search would yield other options. Your overheating sounds like classic head gasket failure. You should stop overheating it or at least start changing your oil after you do.... you will kill the bottom end quickly if you keep it up. GD

I've tried cleaning them many times and it never really helps. Replace it. GD

You dont need a linkage bracket. Or anything else other than what i listed and of course plumbing bits for the pcv that arent included in any kit. The kit is a rip off - plain and simple. I've done it both ways and I ve done probably more than two dozen conversions in total. I do know the cheapest, most effective route. GD

The "kit" is a waste of money. I've mentioned that many times in previous threads. The carbs are $199 all over the web and then you need a low pro filter ($20) and an adaptor plate ($35).... That's $255.... Not sure why they charge $320 for the kit. $65 for a (useless) instruction sheet seems ridiculous to me. GD

You probably have a bad duty-c solenoid. Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. GD

That's pretty much the gist of it. Seals must be driven in precisely perpendicular to the shaft axis. As they are installed over the shaft you need to rotate the seal to prevent rolling the lip. I'm sure you will be fine if you are careful and take your time. The fact that you are here asking how to do it is a sure sign you will take your time and do it properly. The problem comes from people working too fast and not realizing how critical the precise installation of a seal really is. 9 out of 10 engines I tear into have something wrong with one or more of the front seals. I should start taking pictures but I see it so often that it's hardly worth the mention around my shop. GD

You can do a leakdown or you can put a few squirts of oil in the cylinder and retest. If it's rings the reading will shoot way up. If it's valves it may go up a little but not to 185 where it should be. GD

You need a new Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. GD

You cannot and should not use the fan. As noted the Maxima alt has an internal fan like an EJ alternator. That is one of it's many benefits. GD

I order bulk (by the foot) silicone hose from McMaster-Carr in various diameters to have on hand. It's a lot cheaper than ebay or the silicone hose/coupling web sites. GD

I have two sources that I use most often - my local dealer, and a specialty "Import" parts house that buys only high quality Japanese aftermarket parts - Tama thermostat's, NTN idlers, tensioners, and bearings, Koyo, etc.... Most of that stuff actually are the same as the dealer parts but at a discount over what the dealer charges. I have business accounts with both..... So I'm not sure how to vote - since my buying is split. Usually I favor the aftermarket (but it's mostly OEM so not quite the same thing) but for some things I go straight to the dealer. Really depends. I would never buy a 90 to 99 alternator from my import parts source because the dealer is $75 for those... for example. I need an "I always buy the highest quality at the lowest price" voteing option GD

I'm sure the German one would have been fine. I've seen a few variants of the "OEM" EJ thermostat and as long as they have the same opening diameter, the machined jiggle pin, and the large diamter spring that we are all used to they have worked without issue. I've installed tons of thermostat's and this has been the case 100% of the time. I've seen at least three variants of the OEM design and all have been fine. The one's that are a problem have a smaller diameter opening, a weak/small looking spring, and often no jiggle pin. These are the "domestic" equivelents and they aren't designed with cold-side control in mind. They are desiged for hot-side control systems as used on almost all domestic cars and trucks. GD

Really? Do I really have to hold your freakin hand on this? 95 to 99 all use the same alternator and are all applicable to the part number used for the recall - which is: 23700AA34ARA Here's one site (probaby a dealer) that's selling them for $63: http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OEMParts/subaru-153/2/23700AA34ARA.html -- or -- www.1stsubaruparts.com (which is Walker Subaru - a dealer in WA state that is widely respected amongst USMB members) has them listed for $67.50 You DO NOT NEED A VIN or a car which is applicable to the recall. And no you don't have to change any wiring connectors. The alt listed above is for all OBD-II phase-I engines. EJ22E's and EJ25D's included. There is NO DECEPTION on your part. You are ordering a part number in the Subaru parts system. It has NOTHING to do with a recall - which was done for free to cars that it applied to directly. The part price was dropped to around $75 MSRP for some logistical reason that I don't completely understand. In any case it doesn't really matter - that's the price. BUYING one means you aren't even part of the recall which was a free replacement for affected vehicles. You are just buying a part. There's nothing wrong or immoral about buying a part at the price being asked..... GD

The problem is.... if you can't do it then we can't really help you do it. It's much to detailed of a process to walk someone through that isn't familair with automotive electrical. It takes me between 6 and 10 hours to strip a harness depending on year/model, etc. You research, you learn.... but at the end of the day you will have to find some wiring diagrams and either sink or swim. Or pay someone else to do it. There are folks that will do it for a price. $1300 for a WRX engine and tranny? Probaby junk for that price. Personally I wouldn't buy a used sports car engine at any price unless it had documentation or I had intimate knowledge of it's history. The EJ205 is not that great of an engine - they suffer from bottom end failure quite often. Pull the oil pan and inspect for metal - and check for varnish or sludge. Both are signs of poor maintenance or abuse. GD

My experience has been that the 105k timing belt interval is a good choice for a preemtive HG replacement. In the vast majority of cases that policy would save people a lot of money and wasted time/effort. And... in the vast majority of cases... people will not avail themselves of my sage advice and will end up losing the gamble. I see this on a routine basis and it's no longer surprising to me. I can complete people's sentances over the phone when this subject arises. It's like reading a familair old script. GD

Under? You will have to be more specific. Why is a single snapped off bolt such a problem? Ignore it, drill it out and heli-coil.... etc. There are usually options. GD

They won't fit the stock fuel rails and no you can't just put them in without a tuning solution. The ECU was carefully programmed to use the injectors it currently has. And in any case you don't need more fuel unless you are increasing air (boost).... And for that you will also need a tuning solution. GD