GeneralDisorder

I think he meant Injector Duty Cycle. GD

Loop the heater core hoses to take it out of the system. Sounds like you may still have air in the system. Make sure you fill the radiator with the air bleeder plug on the passenger side removed. Doesn't hurt to have the car on an incline and to start it with the cap off and fill as it warms also. If that doesnt work the HG job is probably suspect. You really need to know what you are doing and it doesn't sound like this was quality work. GD

Since you have gone this far.... The community (and especially myself) would be forever grateful if you could do some similar work on the EJ22T ECU which is almost identical to the 92 ECU you are working on - with the addition of boost control. If we had access to the maps and the boost control it would make tuning them a viable option and I would very much like to see that happen. As a former software engineer I wouldn't mind setting up to do this... If you could point me in the direction I need to go for aquireing hardware and setting up to interface with the ROM..... NICE WORK btw! GD

99 is a phase-II engine and you cannot use any of the older engines without swapping the heads over from his existing engine (which are probably shot with scored cam journals). You can use (with little modification): 99 to 01 EJ222 99 EJ253/254 00 to 04 EJ251 You need to use his existing manifold and cam/crank sprockets. You may have to block the EGR port on the replacement engine. There are no non-interference options after '96. ALL EJ25 flavors that will easily swap have head gasket problems - you should replace the HG's on any 99 to 04 EJ25 before installation as a precautionary rule. GD

They are not compatible. The 4EAT went through a major revision in 99 and you can't easily interchange them. GD

Sounds like you just don't have power to the right wires. You need constant 12v supply to the two yellow wires going into the ignition relay. And switched power going to the light green wire. The white/black is the ignition relay coil ground. If you have those three things and you ground the ecu control wire for the FPR then the pump will run. GD

Are you and your dad aware that this procedure involves changing the wheel bearings which are pressed into the knuckle? If you need any help I have a shop in Milwaukie and I specialize in Subaru's. Give me a ring: Superior Soobie & Import, 5o3-88o-4o84 GD

Lets clear up a few things: 1. You say it "appears" to work when bypassed. I assume you mean the power supply is being bypassed... what do you mean by "appears"? Does it run perfectly when you apply an outside voltage and ground? 2. Have you done a fuel pressure test? Replaced the filter? GD

They don't have any in stock though - you must send them your set and wait for them to rebuild them. They don't have a stock of EA82/ER27 lifters unfortunately. GD

Touche! But yeah - you need the rods too. The heat is getting to my neurons. GD

It's pretty simple to monitor the fan's - just plug a scanner into the OBD-II port and watch the temp. They should cut in at about 205* F. When the vehicle is in motion - anything above about 20 MPH - the fans are superfluous because the forward motion of the car pushes air across the radiator. The fans SHOULD NEVER have to be on while the car is moving as the temp should regulate to about 190* F on it's own. Subaru uses a cold-side-controlled thermostat of about 170* - assuming a delta of 20* across the radiator you should see a hot side temp of about 190 - which is where the coolant temp sensors are located. GD

No the ECU case is not required to be grounded - but it's a good idea to have it mounted in such a way that it is. GD

No sense in rebuilding a 48mm block and crank. Trade it out for a '99+ block and crank - get back the 52mm rod journals and the improved #5 thrust bearing. You can use the 25D pistons and rods if you like. GD

They aren't held in at all. They should just fall out. If they don't then there's a ridge holding them in place. Which likely means the head is garbage due to lifter bucket wear and so are the lifters so throw the whole mess in the scrap metal bin. GD

As mentioned - you should also check the ignition timing and if the vac advance is working. They tend to have diaphram failure problems by this age. Without your full ignition advance you will not get proper performance or economy. GD

Makes no sense. When the car is moving it doesn't (shouldn't) need radiator fans at all. Thus they wouldn't be the cause of an overheat while driving. I would suspect they have bandaided the car in some way - drilled holes in the thermostat or gutted it, put some HG sealer goo in the system, etc. How do you know when a used car dealer is lying?...... Easy - his lips are moving! GD

There is no filter inside or outside of the tranny. If it's slipping then it needs to be replaced. No amount of maintenance will cure that for any length of time that will be worth the effort. A used replacement will be the best value. http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Cheapest does not always mean best - or even that they will work at all. You have to be careful what brands you choose to buy and for some things the dealer is the only viable option for a variety of reasons. www.rockauto.com is a good general source with excellent prices. www.subarupartsforyou.com has a useful catalog as it lists OEM part numbers. GD

My 650 Ft/lb gun never fails to remove staked axle nuts. Takes them off like they weren't even torqued. Chicago Pnuematic FTW. GD

You may have ground - but how good is it? With a custom install like that you have to insure your connections and your wire sizing can carry the required current. Just because you have continuity using a 9v battery in your meter doesn't mean it can carry a 10 amp draw from a real component. Get yourself a set of these and watch the youtube video on how to use them: http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-180-LOADpro-Dynamic/dp/B004IKPUL2 GD

They are great cars if you don't get one that's been abused by a kid. Most of the one's for sale have been, and you can just assume that any you see on a used car dealers lot have been abused much more than the average example. Don't even bother buying one from a dealer. My shop is on an "auto mall" strip and I have the opportunity to see what they sell on a daily basis. A 20-something kid from down the street comes by my shop needing help with an '04 WRX he bought with a rod knock. Says he owns the dealership :-p. Anyway I torched off a rounded exhaust nut for him and he shows me the short block he's putting in it.... it's sitting on a tire with no oil pan or heads on it in a filthy hole of a shop. The cylinder walls are washed out clean and smooth. I tell him it will be an oil burner at the very least. That car is for sale right now on his lot for $9k. He put it together himself with the worst selection of tools I've seen in a while and in a nasty, dirty shop. Whoever buys that will be lucky to see another 10k on that engine. That's just one story - I have many more. GD

You have power supply and grounding issues most likely. Pretty much impossible to diagnose any of that without having the car since the entire fuel injection and ignition system have been custom installed into a different chassis. GD

There is air or exhaust gasses in your cooling system. That's what creates the noise. The Subaru stop leak (HOLTS Radweld) is used to fix the external weepage problem. Not a bad seal on a HG fire ring. It will do less than nothing for your problem. Bubbles in the coolant is not a failure mode of your year engine's HG's. They weep externally. You need to test these bubbles for exhaust gas contamination. You may not have a HG problem at all. The used engine market is national. Shipping an engine is simple, and relatively cheap compared to their price. In any case you don't want a phase-II EJ22 as they are expensive. If you replace it at all then replace it with an EJ25. Sounds like you have a problem but it's not going to be solved with coolant conditioner. I would be having a talk with your mechanic - something is not right with a HG job that only lasts 32k miles. GD

Hard not to point out the obvious.... The reason the carb didn't make much difference in power is because you haven't got it tuned right . That much is clear by the large decrease in fuel mileage - obviously you are running rich. A rich running condition will be apparent by a bogging, loss of power sensation... or in your case... "Hitachi performance" because you haven't experienced what a properly tuned Weber feels like. Beg, borrow, or steal a Wideband O2 sensor and find out where you really are AFR wise. Makes tuning a lot easier for those that aren't familiar with how a carb works and what the different jets do. GD

Why don't you just call them and get a quote? GD

My commercial account price at my dealer is $0.90 each for the OEM crush washers. And they deliver to my shop for free. Not much point in using anything less IMO. And I do replace them quite often. Half the time I pull off plugs they are missing - probably lost at lube joints that have poo-flinging monkeys climbing on cars.... GD