GeneralDisorder

Exhaust leaks and missing heat shields will cause a loss of heat in the exhaust system and lower the efficiency of the converter. When people install aftermarket headers they tend to throw this code because they don't have any heat shields to keep the heat in. Basically you have to watch 4 things - exhaust leaks, heat shields, O2 sensors (front and rear) and the catalyst condition. One of those always ends up being the problem. GD

Not really much difference. I think they went to axle splines on the inside of the diff to avoid having the splines rust from being exposed. It's just to use the WRX diff which requires the "male" axle joint vs. the female roll-pinned version. GD

No, not really. You just swap the joint cup. It's not rocket science. It's a CV boot and a snap ring. GD

You will need to use inner axle joints from a '95+ on EA82 shaft/outer joint assemblies to interface it. GD

XT6 front control arms or modify the EA82 one's to accept the Legacy ball joint. Legacy axles, hub/knuckle assembly, ball joints, and complete strut assembly. In the rear you need XT6 hubs, backing plate, pads/rotor, and caliper. Rear is bolt-on. Front generally requires a bit more work many people have done it. GD

You can convert the car to 5 lug using some XT6 and Legacy parts.... you will need different wheels and tires as well. GD

It is most probably the rear input shaft bearing..... Remove tranny, split it open, replace the $65 bearing, a few $10 seals, and re-install. Pretty easy - should take an afternoon. GD

I think by '02 they all had them.... but I could be wrong on that account also. I know for certain that most of the phase-II 2.2's didn't have them and in order to install it into an EGR equipped car you may have to drill and tap the head for the EGR tube. On the drivers side of the manifold toward the back you should see a large valve - under it there will be a copper pipe running to the back of the cylinder head. GD

Grab a couple in case your wiring still has whatever problem fried the first one. GD

14 hours eh? That's a bit steep IMO. I'm at about 10 for a HG job typically. 3 to pull, 3 to install, and 4 for cleaning, dis-assembly, reassembly, etc. Of course - I do this all day every day and I specialize in Subaru's.... I've used the NPW pumps and they are nicely built. Though I recently pulled a nice looking one from a Tercel that had a light weep-hole failure.... So far I like the Aisin pumps the best. Slightly more $ than the NPW's but they come with the factory metal gasket which is a $4 bonus.... that's about the price difference between the NPW and Aisin anyway so I figure it's a win. Good luck with your new gaskets. GD

Fried diode is bad. Get a replacement from the junk yard and solder it in place. The yellow wire that goes to the alt and coil, etc should be connected to switched +12v. The OBD-I alternators won't charge without this +12v input to the regulator in the alt. GD

Unless you find a donor vehicle to get all the parts from.... it's one of those questions that's best answered with a "If you have to ask you probably aren't going to like the answer and/or cannot afford to make this happen". If you had all the factory components from an 80/81 it would be relatively easy... though you would have to deal with converting the pump oil and lines to R-134 capable components. 82 to 89 EA81 AC components could also be made to work though the electrical side is going to be more of a challenge since after '81 things changed dramatically in '82 and '83. If you wanted to go completely custom with all the components I could easily see you spending $1000 or more just on parts. And that's on the inexpensive side of the numbers for something like this. Kits are readily available for my '69 GMC truck and those are in the $1200 range. That's not installed, not charged with refrigerant..... that's going to be hundreds more if you are paying to have it done. GD

Buy a couple replacement fan motors. Most likely one has been out for a long time and the other just joined it. The car will easily run off one fan without any complaints or obvious signs of distress. GD

You just have to drive it till the readiness monitor shows the ready state. In OR you can pass with I think 2 readiness monitors incomplete on cars older than 2000. Are you saying that because of the P0440 code that they have on record (who took the car in with the CEL on?!? Automatic fail....) that they will not pass it without the EVAP monitor showing ready? GD

The 2.2 will probably not have EGR - the car is almost certainly equipped with EGR so you MUST use the 2.5 manifold or it will trip codes and you will not pass your state inspection if you have one. GD

Some very slight binding is a fairly normal thing with the 4EAT. Some do it more than others but the slight tug of the clutch pack is a normal feeling that most of these exhibit - especially after many years and miles. It's not a cause for concern IMO unless wheels are chirping or you have codes, etc. That's just how Subaru auto's tend to feel in tight turns. Good luck with your complaint. They should have stepped up and taken care of you without involving the authorities. GD

You need to check for AC ripple current, not DC voltage. You should not have more than a few hundred millivolts of AC ripple at the most. AC current superimposed on the voltage output from the alternator will defeat the diodes in the idiot lamp circuits and cause the "Christmas Tree" to light up in somewhat unpredictable (model to model/brand to brand) fashion. GD

I was thinking of the wrong gas when I said CO2. I forget that my TIG uses 100% argon because of it's inertness and thus it's the one that would run colder. So yeah - .023 and Argon is what you want for sheet metal....:-p GD

Wouldn't the R&P still be driving in reverse all the time? The gears really weren't designed to do that - you would be running on the coasting side of the diff gears which is significantly weaker and in a vehicle that's a lot heavier.... The front diff on my t-case lifted hatch is an R-160 that's been turned around and used in the front. It ate itself once and had to be replaced already. R&P chewed up pretty good and that one isn't even used to drive the car except when 4WD is engaged. I wouldn't expect it to last very long in that scenario. All the transaxle conversions I've seen have swapped the R&P for a reverse drive set that has the proper cut and/or flips the ring to the other side of the pinion. GD

I know that RGuyver did it. You might look him up and send him a message or email, etc. GD

Wisco are ok.... Arias and CP are the two that are widely regarded as being the strongest. GD

The PCV is there to eliminate corrosive blow-by gasses from contaminating and acidifying your oil. You need POSITIVE flow. Clean air going into one vavle cover, through the crankcase, and out the other. For that you need either pressure or suction. The intake has suction..... thus the PCV valve. Eliminate it at your own risk. Pretty silly and ignorant thing to do IMO. GD

There's no way. They are feeding you a line. The crank pulley, sprocket, and keyway may be messed up but that's easily fixed by welding the key in place at it's proper location then torqueing the components down properly. They all have some wobble to the crank pulley. It's just how they are typically. The rubber in them doesn't last forever and may be thicker or thinner in some areas leading to the illusion that it's wobbling. Doesn't really matter as long as it runs and doesn't throw the belts off. GD

The strongest forged pistons for turbo applications are made by Arias. http://www.ariaspistons.com/ Thickest ring lands, etc. You won't break these. Arias, Mahle, Stock. GD

Pardon me if I'm completely blunt about this and don't take it personally cause you are learning and that's ok..... You haven't got the first clue how to run a meter and check what needs checking. Either that or I'm not grasping how you are describing what you are testing. This: "F47 (D) pin 14 and 15 are grounds, power supply and igniting," Is not making any sense. A pin is either a ground source for the ECU or it's a power supply to the ECU.... or it has another function. They can't be both. These voltages you are reading are meaningless "ghost" voltage. Numbers like .5 and .6 volts are effectively zero for the purposes of troubleshooting and a reading going up 0.1v when you ground a pin on the ECU is effectively no change at all. That's not in the granularity of what you are looking for. You should be looking for 12v at the pins supplying power and you should be looking for 0 (Zero) Ohms of resistance when probing a ground pin - both tests are done with the ECU hooked up and probing from the back side of the connection. You need some guideance here but I'm not totally sure how to help you. I don't have the time to get out there myself and I'm sure you probably don't want to tow the thing down to my shop so..... the only thing I can think is to have you hang out at the shop when I'm troubleshooting something of this nature. GD